First, what is a logical oil change interval for a slightly modded SR20DE? That is, not the 3000mi one that the lube tells you to do. Is it just what the manual says, or would there be a better one?
Second, would synthetic oil be a good idea in this engine? I repeatedly hear of the wonders of synthetic, and while it may not improve much at this point in the life of the car, later on (say, with a cam change) it may, or will it?
Finally, using the above information, which oil would you recommend be used? I hear great things from my brother about Mobil 1 Synthetic, no recommendations on Dino Poop... so...
TIA!
edit: When I ask about the interval, let me clarify. This car is enthusiast maintained and driven. Young enthusiast at that, so I'm thinking it may need it more often than normal. Just a thought.
Oil Questions
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nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
I know, and that's why I'm asking. Lemme explain the background behind that first one.
I'm right at the 3000 mile mark that is suggested by the lube. I don't want to take it to the lube anymore, so I'm going to start doing it myself (have a few friends who are going to show me through the first time or two, just to make sure, I know it's pretty easy). I talked to a friend of mine who's dad maintains all of their cars extensively. He changes it at 7500mi. Yes, 7500. This includes his 88 Honda Accord and Buick with well over 200,000 miles on them (something like 275k on one, I believe). They're the best running engines of that age I've ever heard/felt (I've driven the Accord). My friend, thus, says it's silly to change it every 3000. At least 5000, if not the 7500 his dad uses. This is the first time I've heard anything past 5000.
Note: My car has just 43,000 miles, for those who might want/need to know. Thanks!
I'm right at the 3000 mile mark that is suggested by the lube. I don't want to take it to the lube anymore, so I'm going to start doing it myself (have a few friends who are going to show me through the first time or two, just to make sure, I know it's pretty easy). I talked to a friend of mine who's dad maintains all of their cars extensively. He changes it at 7500mi. Yes, 7500. This includes his 88 Honda Accord and Buick with well over 200,000 miles on them (something like 275k on one, I believe). They're the best running engines of that age I've ever heard/felt (I've driven the Accord). My friend, thus, says it's silly to change it every 3000. At least 5000, if not the 7500 his dad uses. This is the first time I've heard anything past 5000.
Note: My car has just 43,000 miles, for those who might want/need to know. Thanks!
I would suggest 3000, there abouts, unless you are using full synthetic which can last much longer. The reason synthetic oil is so wonderful is that, unlike natural crude, it is actualy attracted to heat. It will flow in the direction of hot spots and cool them off, and provide the lubricating effects needed to that spot. It is not really recommended on older engines, because it is thinner and older engines have greater tolerances. By older, I'd probably say early nineties and older, but it depends on the when the engine was designed, not the model year of the car. For just about any car you can use synthetic blend, which is pretty good. It has some of the properties of the synthetic oil, but also a lot of properties of natural oil, including paraffin. You guys on the West coast probably need that a lot more then us on the East. Also, if you go to full synthetic, don't switch back. I personally use Mobil One, which I like, and Fram filters.
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nametakennow
- Posts: 10024
- Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2002 4:14 pm
- Car: '06 MINI Cooper S
I'd recommend synthetic blend. On the time issue, why don't you just experiment. It'll give you a good feel for the car. Change your oil at about 3000 and save a little bit of the oil in a jar. Then, change your oil again, but a litle later, like at 4 or 5 thousand. Compare the oil you changed with the one you saved. Compare color, thickness, etc. Try to remember how it smelled when you first took it out. This will give you a good idea about when to change it. If you want to try going 7500, go ahead. You'll be able to see the difference in the oil when you make it go that long.
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The interval is 90 days or 3,750 miles which ever occurs first.
Oil is tested at running hours [65 hours at cruise rpm ~~3900 miles at 60 mph] for evaporation an TAN changes.Real Synthetics usually pass these test at 100 even 120 hours of use.
Oil filters on the other hand are too small to handle 100 hours of use [6,000 miles at 60 mph].........with synthetics inportant to adhere to 90 day oil filter change and top up what is lost with more synthetics.
The oil sump is tiny in a SR20 compare to German brothers of equal size this limits the life of the oil.http://www.swri.edu/4org/d08/G...t.htm
"attended a meeting with the EPA and various stakeholders in the automotive aftermarket on the roll-out of the new GF-4 motor oils. This is the next generation of motor oils to appear with the coveted (and auto manufacturer recommended) sunburst logo. The logo is the symbol of the API and SAE certification of motor oils. The EPA is touting the GF-4’s as environmentally friendly products due to a very low sulfur content (sulfur will contaminate newer sensors and catalytic systems) and better lubricating properties that would contribute to fuel economies on a national level. As repair facilities, our members have two concerns with this issue. There is reason to believe that this new product may have a significant price increase which creates problems selling basic oil change service. The other concern has to do with “backward compatibility” of GF-4 oil. That is, can this oil be used in older vehicles once the GF-3 oil stocks are depleted without worrying about oil consumption because of viscosity changes? (If they are available, they will not have the sunburst logo and may not meet warranty requirements.) "
http://www.noln.net/columns/ch....html
"A recent class-action lawsuit brought forward by owners of certain 1998 through 2001 Mercedes-Benz vehicles claimed they weren't informed that synthetic motor oil was required in order to take advantage of the extended drain intervals afforded through the use of the vehicles' Flexible Service System (FSS). Many using conventional oils experienced premature wear problems, and the settlement will cost the company over $32 million.
"The long drain indicator used by Mercedes is predicated on using Mercedes-Benz-approved oil, which is a very top quality synthetic oil," explains the oil company source. "When those vehicles came to the States, somehow dealerships weren't impressing upon the consumer the need to use the right oil. "
Oil is tested at running hours [65 hours at cruise rpm ~~3900 miles at 60 mph] for evaporation an TAN changes.Real Synthetics usually pass these test at 100 even 120 hours of use.
Oil filters on the other hand are too small to handle 100 hours of use [6,000 miles at 60 mph].........with synthetics inportant to adhere to 90 day oil filter change and top up what is lost with more synthetics.
The oil sump is tiny in a SR20 compare to German brothers of equal size this limits the life of the oil.http://www.swri.edu/4org/d08/G...t.htm
"attended a meeting with the EPA and various stakeholders in the automotive aftermarket on the roll-out of the new GF-4 motor oils. This is the next generation of motor oils to appear with the coveted (and auto manufacturer recommended) sunburst logo. The logo is the symbol of the API and SAE certification of motor oils. The EPA is touting the GF-4’s as environmentally friendly products due to a very low sulfur content (sulfur will contaminate newer sensors and catalytic systems) and better lubricating properties that would contribute to fuel economies on a national level. As repair facilities, our members have two concerns with this issue. There is reason to believe that this new product may have a significant price increase which creates problems selling basic oil change service. The other concern has to do with “backward compatibility” of GF-4 oil. That is, can this oil be used in older vehicles once the GF-3 oil stocks are depleted without worrying about oil consumption because of viscosity changes? (If they are available, they will not have the sunburst logo and may not meet warranty requirements.) "
http://www.noln.net/columns/ch....html
"A recent class-action lawsuit brought forward by owners of certain 1998 through 2001 Mercedes-Benz vehicles claimed they weren't informed that synthetic motor oil was required in order to take advantage of the extended drain intervals afforded through the use of the vehicles' Flexible Service System (FSS). Many using conventional oils experienced premature wear problems, and the settlement will cost the company over $32 million.
"The long drain indicator used by Mercedes is predicated on using Mercedes-Benz-approved oil, which is a very top quality synthetic oil," explains the oil company source. "When those vehicles came to the States, somehow dealerships weren't impressing upon the consumer the need to use the right oil. "
Dennis did a great job providing important background info.
We also have other threads with oil discussions here on Nico (nico search "oil*")
A naturally aspirated SR with some aggressive (ie. hotter) driving in summer and a small sump needs a very strong oil.
I recommend any one of the follwoing oils:http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....=6610
In addition to the Mercedes specs mentioned in that thread nearly all of them, meet some of the VW specs, which are also a good litmus test as VW engine tend to be hard on oils.
One of my favorites in there is Mobil1 0w-40 if used in a newer engine, if a higher mile engine, I prefer the SynPower 5w-40 for what have seen of its detergency, when in direct comparison with M1 0w-40.But the M1 0w-40 meets even MB229.5 which is a indicator of higher stability ( yes despite the wide viscosity range).
The above recomendations hold for naturally aspirated engines (Turbos need thicker than 40 weight, even if they are syns, at least in summer)
Fred...
We also have other threads with oil discussions here on Nico (nico search "oil*")
A naturally aspirated SR with some aggressive (ie. hotter) driving in summer and a small sump needs a very strong oil.
I recommend any one of the follwoing oils:http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....=6610
In addition to the Mercedes specs mentioned in that thread nearly all of them, meet some of the VW specs, which are also a good litmus test as VW engine tend to be hard on oils.
One of my favorites in there is Mobil1 0w-40 if used in a newer engine, if a higher mile engine, I prefer the SynPower 5w-40 for what have seen of its detergency, when in direct comparison with M1 0w-40.But the M1 0w-40 meets even MB229.5 which is a indicator of higher stability ( yes despite the wide viscosity range).
The above recomendations hold for naturally aspirated engines (Turbos need thicker than 40 weight, even if they are syns, at least in summer)
Fred...