oil questions (i have searched but still not quite found an answer)

[theboy419]

Ok, just as a starter, I have searched quite a bit for anything regarding this question but can't quite find enough details specific to my usage and where i live.Some background: I have a relatively-stock KA24E with 167,000 miles on it, due for an oil change. Up until recently, I've always taken it to Jiffy Lube until the last time when they screwed me over big time on the cost, so I've decided to do my own oil changes and stop being lazy. However, before this 240 I owned a KA24DE and wanted to know a few things that haven't been answered in my searches. I don't own my manual to the current 240 so I can't find this exact information anywhere it seems.-How much oil should I put in? (I think that can be solved w/ previous Jiffy Lube receipts, tho)-What kind of oil should I put in it? They always put some sort of high mileage, but everyone tells me to use Mobil 1, from there it's up in the air for exactly what kind. Some say, don't use high mileage if you run your car hard (which i run it a lil harder than usual), others say use synthetics for it, others say DON'T use synthetics for cars that old, then comes in the weight, etc.I live in Pennsylvania, where we have cold winters into the below freezing range on occasion, then the summers reach upwards of 95 in some cases. Average of 80 or so summer and maybe 20-30 in winter. Anyway, what kinds of oils should I use, especially for this upcoming change? What weight is good for what season, and should i use high mileage if i run it hard, or is that gonna lose performance? Should I use synthetic or is that too thin for an old engine? Also, if switching from one type to another (regular to synth, etc) should i use any special techniques like running the new oil for a little while then changing it again?Sorry for the long, possibly pointless post, but just was wondering what feedback i can get for my exact problem, hard to find people w/ my weather changes, usage etc. Thanks!

[SOHCSE]

Wow another PA boy with a pignose.

First of all, check here...

http://www.240sx.org/faq/index.html

I think you want to read the first faq.

Secondly I just switched my 1990 from dino to Mobil 1. I couldn't be happier. I didn't have any oil leaks or burns to start with. I have heard that if your 240 leaks oil that synthetic is not the route to go. I'm sure this may cause a discussion (argument?) but oh well, that's what we are here for. I did a straight up switch, didnt do anything special for the conversion. Held up great.

go for it.

[Kenrik]

Synthetic is thiner so you want to get a 10w 30 (not 5w 30 like the manual says) since you're driving hard I say synthetic.. it's expensive but worth it! i'm sure jiffy lube put in the cheapest crap oil you can buy and also put on the cheapest filters.. Always do your own oil changes it takes 10 min! geezzz the engine takes 4qts

[wilfonzo]

when i used to drive a 5-0 royal purple was the stuff to get... has anyone ever tried it on a 240

[Nismochick240]

i gotta 91 240.. i change my own oil instead of going to a shop (a lot better for your wallet and ur car) i use castrol gtx 10w50 and mine usually holds 4 quarts... change ur oil and turn on ur car afterwards let run for like a minute and then check ur dipstick to see if ur full

[theboy419]

awesome, thanks a ton! Think I'll try the Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w30 from the looks of it, I'll let ya'll know how it works out for me. Sorry if this question was a little ridiculous, i couldn't find anything quite sounding right for my conditions, but i do appreciate it a lot! Thanks again!

[dal2kvvisp]

i personally use royal purple on all my cars, from personal experience, and a lot of performance shop's around here's recommendation... car runs super smooth, done a bit of research on it, and its really a superior oil for your engine, but its a lil pricier... 5-7 bucks a quart, depending on where u get it

[vvaffle]

Synthetic may leak out of places that regular oil would not have leaked from as much. Example: when I got my car it had regular oil in it. My valve cover gasket isn't in the best shape and it used to leak a little oil. Now that I put in mobil 1 I think I may be leaking at the rate of about half a quart for 3000 miles. So it will leak more, but leaks are not a good thing anyways and should be fixed which is why I'm not going to stop using mobil 1 but will change the gasket. I didn't use any special method to swtich it over, but the first oil change I did I ran regular oil for about 500 miles and then put in mobil 1.

[BadMojo]

I use Valvoline Synpower 5w40 in the Summer and 5w30 in the winter. I've got no problems with leaks, but if I did, I'd just replace the bad seal like vvaffle said.

[ddgsxr504]

Second that on the Valvoline Syn Power 5W-30, that's what I use too! When you change your oil make sure you do it when the engine is warmed up. After you drain the oil and are about to replace your filter make sure you lube the o-ring on the filter with new oil and fill the filter up about half way with oil. Once you fill the crank case let it sit for about 5 min before you check the dip stick. Don't start the car and then check it! Once you start the car the oil is still sticking to the internals and not all in the drain pan like it would be had you just poured it in there. A little off topic but maybe this will be useful to someone.

[Bigvinnie]

Castrol GTX 10w-30, If you have a high mileage engine I would go with the Castrol GTX 10w-40, better lubing of worn rings and bearings. In your case at 160,000+ miles and you probably drive hard I would go with the thicker 10w-40, the oil turns really black, and is less viscous than most motor oils. You can also try castrol syntec 10w-40, but once you go synthetic you shouldn't go back to petro oil. I don't know if that is a myth or not, but people say you can't go back to regular oil after switching to synthetic.I use castrol because that is what the older datsun/nissan manuals recomended for high rev in the L and z series of engines.