OIL PUMPS and Pressure

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locoluna825
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OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby locoluna825 » Wed Jun 30, 2010 6:24 pm

SO.... I got a PSI gauge for my oil pressure hooked it up and i kinda didnt like the 10 psi at idle. It also takes like over 4 seconds to build up any pressure at start up. I have a problem with noisy lifters at idle. Only during idle. And lately a new thing, timing chain rattle at start up, (Brand new timing Chain assembly 6000 miles). Only during those 4 seconds of no oil presure. So i thought they were related. Ive been researching about the oil pumps, and searching for a replacement.

I read the 280zx turbo has a "better" oil pump. I did some researching in the datsun forums and i have found it is common in the 280zx to have 10-15 psi of oil pressure at idle and 50-60 3000 rpms and above. The same as our ka24e pumps. so... i see no reason in switching them. Also found some right ups on here about upgrading the springs inside the pump with these part numbers; inner spring # 15133-e4620, Outer spring # 15133-22010. I cannot find these springs. Ive called my dealer, they say there not valid part number, and cannot seem to find them at courtesy nissans website or through google.

The only thing I see thats possible now is purchasing a new oil pump and shimming the springs, or buying the toga HV oil pump. Im really looking for A psi of 20-25 psi at idle. so keep the lifters from ticking. Some thoughts from ppl with knowledge/experience in the toga hv pump, 280zx oil pump, or who have upgraded there own stock oil pump, would really really be appreciated. Thanks :gapteeth:


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bender24k
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Re: OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby bender24k » Thu Jul 01, 2010 1:52 pm

You could try a better oil filter, with a better anti-drainback device. Mobil 1, Nissan OEM, K&N - these will help keep some oil in the top of your engine on startup.

11 psi @ idle is not what is making the lifters tick - no oil in the head is.

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locoluna825
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Re: OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby locoluna825 » Thu Jul 01, 2010 11:41 pm

hmm. well ive tried many different filter oil type combination these last 2 years and it always seems to come back after each try. I did recently drop the pan to make sure nothing was cloggin the screen up. did find about an entire old timing chain guide in there and a little rtv sealent. I got rid of that stuff real quick, then changed the filter and oil. I changed one of the lifter assemblies once a long time ago on the exhuast side. That helped. becuase they were jsut CONSTANLY taping. Im pretty sure its the intake side this time, at least it sounds like it is.

Thing thats making me think its the oil pump is that I just installed a oil pressure gauge for my friend as well. Just to find out what his was running at, Same motor. And his oil pressure is about 5 pounds stronger than mine. at idle and while moving. The pressure in his car kicks in MUCH faster than mine does at startup. It shoots up to like 40 pounds at start up. Then goes down to about 20-25 and slowly works it way to 15.
Mine take like 4 seconds or over to get any pressure and slooooowly creeps up to about 20-25 pounds at startup.

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bender24k
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Re: OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby bender24k » Fri Jul 02, 2010 9:57 am

Any chance there is air in the gauge line? You can bleed it by loosening the nut where the line connects to the sensor while the engine is running until you get oil dripping out. I have seen slow gauge responce on startup due to this.

Also you could try the lifter oiling trick of running the engine at 2000 rpm for 10 minutes. I have seen this quiet lifters down, but it is hit and miss - doesn't work everytime and you may need to manually bleed the lifters.

Maybe try some oil additave that can help clean out any restrictions, Marvel Myster Oil or a similar product that you put in then change your oil after running it for the specified number of minutes. Again, this is just something cheap and easy to try.

One last thing - the top timing chain guide can be safely removed according to Nissan. This can also help reduce noise on startup.

Maybe doing all these things together can show some improvement.

Good luck!

-Jeff

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locoluna825
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Re: OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby locoluna825 » Fri Jul 02, 2010 6:02 pm

i know most of these tricks. thanks for the info. so besides that does anyone know if the umm high pressure springs for the oil pumps are still available?

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SullivanRacing06
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Re: OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby SullivanRacing06 » Sun Jul 04, 2010 7:44 am

you can shim the spring or put small washers behind it in the pump housing, but increasing the oil pressure at the pump is not going to save anything, your bearing clearances are out of spec. use thicker oil for now untill you replace or rebuild the motor

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SullivanRacing06
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Re: OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby SullivanRacing06 » Sun Jul 04, 2010 7:46 am

try rotella non synthetic 15-40 its 10 bucks for a gallon, and dont use fram filters,

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btm88
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Re: OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby btm88 » Sun Jul 04, 2010 7:56 am

+1 for Rotella. I use it in both my cars and it works awesome.

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SullivanRacing06
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Re: OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby SullivanRacing06 » Sun Jul 04, 2010 8:02 am

use it in my

durango
f350
s13
civic
r32
integra

every car i buy it from tractor supply in the 2.5 gal drums

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locoluna825
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Re: OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby locoluna825 » Sun Jul 04, 2010 11:55 pm

whats wrong with fram filters? are they POS? im gonna buy a nissan filter next week. and i do always use thiker oil. 10w 30 or 40. my tickity tappidy lifters only make noise when idling after a while. or taking the car up to higher RPMS, then whle idling it will start right after. NEVER do they tap while the RPMS go up. they pump back up after 2000 rpms.

ntn.wrng.w.nsnbtz
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Re: OIL PUMPS and Pressure

Postby ntn.wrng.w.nsnbtz » Fri Oct 16, 2020 1:08 am

OH s*** the finding in the sump said it all even if its ten years ago :wtf2: . You better check ,if this is what you find. The guides behind the timing cover on Z & L engines , where the top 2" breaks off and results in the tension side timing chain guide breaking away from its mounting tabs. You notice a horrid rattle when its idling and as rpm increase becomes rather quieter. So if you find that little piece in the pan you need to remove the crank pulley and timing cover to see what has happened. One may find the problem visible with a really good torch shone down the filler cap hole ? You'll have better luck with the rocker cover off and out of the way. But if we just hit the nail on the head , the cover has to come off the front to do anything about fixing it . To achieve that the sump needs to be off and out of the way. ( where you just found the top tip of your timing chain guide) Shame I'm ten years late with a solution but this stuff might be here for another decade or more ? Noisy tappets are not loud per se. That loose timing chain guide sure is noisy at an idle though . I'm sure KA24e is a completely different and much improved guide & tensioner arrangement .


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