Oil pump.

[jungerfrosch]

I'm thinking of trying to get my '64 L320 running soon. It was running when parked, but that was a good 20 years ago I believe.

Is it possible to spin the oil pump manually to build oil pressure before trying to start? I know with Fords (some anyway) you can pull the distributor and spin the pump with a drill and shaft. Sure is nice to have some oil circulated recently before trying to start.

Tad

[Conner]

I don't know the answer to your exact question but with other Datsuns you can take a flat headed screwdriver, cut off the handle, and chuck it in your drill to accomplish what you are suggesting. I haven't done it and honestly don't know if you want to spin clockwise or counterclockwise.

But here's what I would do:

Pull the spark plugs. Spray some WD40 or Marvel Mystery oil or PB Blaster into each cylinder. Then grab your hand crank, insert it through the bumper, and see if you can get the engine to turn. It just may. Mine did, and I'm convinced it hasn't run in over a decade.

If the engine doesn't turn, add some more lubricant in each cylinder, put the plugs back, and let the lube penetrate for a few days and try again.

Once the engine does turn, I would change the oil and filter, add some clean fuel and a new fuel filter, put in a new battery and spark plugs if you have them, and try to fire it up. If it won't start, you can start trying to determine if it is the ignition system, the starter, the carburetor, or what.

These E1 engines are supposed to be pretty bulletproof so I wouldn't worry about the oil pressure at start if you have sprayed lube into the cylinders, maybe pour some of the oil when you change it over the valves, and have oil in the engine.

[Conner]

Oh and take video of the engine when you first try to start it up!!!

[Li'l Truckie]

jungerfrosch,

Performed the same as described by Conner on my '64. Just used the hand crank on the crank and turned it over. We actually took two days. Evening of Day 1, I just turned the crank, slowly with not spark plugs in, while the son squirted oil down into the spark plug holes. We let it set over night. Day 2, was more of turning over the engine and then we finally put the plugs back in. At this time we turned it over with battery - with the coil plug disconnected. Son turned the key as I watched everything. Switched over and he checked the electricals as I turned the key. Both satisfied we then added gas and electricity!

Reception and Day 1 Photos
https://www.flickr.com/photos/113742723 ... 526485576/

Start Up Video
https://www.flickr.com/photos/113742723 ... 9526485576

You'll notice the radiator hoses removed and some huge John Deere generator. We ran it twice, first time in the video and then refilled the float bowl one more time to make sure it would start again before tearing it apart.

Andy

[jungerfrosch]

Not sure about the video....I will try to remember.

I must have too many projects....it's a '65 not a '64....oops. I do have a '64 truck, but it's a Ford.

Tad

[difrangia]

Only way to prime an assembled E1 or J13 is to spin the crank. The pump is captured in the oil pan and is driven directly off the cam. The distributor is driven separately from the same cam gear. If you try to drive the distributor drive shaft with the distributor removed, you're gonna break something.

On American V8-s that I've been into, the cam drives a gear on the bottom of the distributor shaft and the distributor then drives the oil pump. When the distributor is pulled, the pump is disconnected from the cam and one can drive the oil pump with a drill and a long screwdriver blade or equivalent or whatever shape it takes to drive the pump shaft.

If the timing chain is off the Datsun pushrod engine, you could loosen the rockers to take pressure off the cam and spin the cam with a drill (clockwise from the front of the motor) to prime the pump. Don't know if there's room for a drill with the engine in the truk.

Hope this helps.
Steve

[jungerfrosch]

Thank you, I guess I will just have to oil the cylinders a bit and pour some down from the top end. I surely would have figured it out after pulling the distributor and nothing turned easily, so it's nice to know before I pulled it to see. Being able to spin the pump is nice because you can get oil everywhere and can verify the oil pressure gauge works ahead of time.

An advantage of the E1/J13 design I suppose is that if you pull the distributor it is easier to place it back in the correct location. It can only be put back correctly or 180 degrees off. With the drive gear on the distributor it can get off by a tooth on the gear and they rotate as it drops in.

Tad

[difrangia]

You really can't put it in 180 out. the drive slot is off center.

[jungerfrosch]

You really can't put it in 180 out. the drive slot is off center.

Man they thought of everything.

Tad