Oil Pump replacement question for a r32 gtr

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g-man
Posts: 202
Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 4:04 pm
Car: 1991 240SX

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My friend has a r32 gtr that needs an oil pump replacement. He is currentley building the engine with 500whp in mind. My question is will the N1 oil pump be good enough to handle this or not. Any other aftermarket one like nismo starts at like $850 and goes up from there so any help on this issue would be appreciated thanks.


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themadscientist
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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pump should be fine but have the crank collared.

g-man
Posts: 202
Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 4:04 pm
Car: 1991 240SX

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His engine is a late 1990 model where the crank is longer than the earlier engines so should he still use one of these collars? I mean I have seen them but I assumed this was just to fix the flaw with the early motors.

Carkeeper
Posts: 68
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2006 3:52 pm
Car: x

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You will want an R33 or R34 crank and preferably an R34 Damper.

ALSO: DO NOT use an N1 pump, they will break. Use a JUN[about $1000] or a TOMEI[about $1200].

There have been a rash of N1 pumps fail in the past 6 to 9 months, we suspect a bad batch from NISSAN.

N1 are made of "powered" metal; the JUN and TOMEI are made of Chrome Molly and have secondary machine operations in the corners where the stesss is bulit up on the pump to crank interface.

I had to replace mine, when it broke, wasn't under boost and noticed it immediately, fortunately not breaking the engine, other weren't so lucky.

Don't save $600 to $800[on the weakest link in the RB26] on a $15K engine.


Modified by Carkeeper at 2:50 PM 9/24/2007

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themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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I don't know why someone hasn't gotten goofy and made a drop in titanium gear for the high flow pumps.

Carkeeper
Posts: 68
Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2006 3:52 pm
Car: x

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madscience:

Not sure what you mean[with the Titianium comment] but the N1 Oil Pump for the RB26 is "sintered" composite steel and is NOT durable.

The "play" between the Crank to Oil pump main gear dirve is over 5mm. that's right over .08 inches, so they "bang" together as the crank twists; thus the damper need to damp the modal resonances.

Just trying to keep this guy out of trouble.

This issue is real and has been highly documented in the past year.

Titanium is great but is extremely expensive, as you must know.

Chome Molly and secondary machining is the best choice to date.

JUN and TOMEI have dealt with this issue for years.

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themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

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I have seen pics of the shattered gears, daym that has to suck

I was just suprized that with all the money the rich boys in japan pour into their GT-Rs nobody has done titanium pump gears. When these dudes are dropping over $50,000.00 into some of these engines it would almost be justifiable. I was joking with a freind with a R that he had more money sunk into his rotating assembly than I had in my whole car. He didn't laugh, just kind of a sad look.

RB-Powered
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:09 pm

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The 4.6 Ford engines have the same problem. The gears don't need to be titanium, a good billet steel gear set would solve the problem. We've had good results with cryo-treating the stock gears in the Fords also.

until240
Posts: 32
Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 3:59 pm
Car: '95 240sx

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Sorry to bump an old thread, but i read on freshalloy that the reimax oil pumps were good too. dunno about pricing though, but i would guess cheaper than jun or tomei.


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