oil pump problems?

[ice_man152]

ok heres my problem...i bought a 90 240 for 300 bucks. dream car..rough shape. i heard sr20's have head problems, was thinking of an rb25 or 26 but i heard they have oil pump problems? whats the main problems that a stock rb25 or 26 has that id need to correct for the swap for it to be reliable? im aiming for 450whp reliable to start out with. would appreciate the help guys. thanks

[Joe]

its not a pump problem, its the drive on the crankshaft for the pump. most RB's are plagued with it. the solution is to have a longer collar put on. but it requires a machine shop and total engine disassembly.

most people say "**** it" till it goes, then do a full rebuild.

and its also important to know, just because you MIGHT have the small collar, doesnt mean you cant make a ton of power reliably. it just means its a timebomb as to when its going to let go.

[ice_man152]

how expensive would u thinkit is to get that machined? any other major problems with the rb25-26's?

off topic - how hard was ur ls1 swap? n was it worth it?

[Joe]

its expensive. you need to talk to your machine shop for prices because they will be doing the labor for you probably (unless your comfortable doing engine assembly/disassembly)

and my ls1 swap was hard, but worth every minute, and every penny. i wish i would have known this years ago i never would have messed with my RB25.

[ice_man152]

oh im more than comfortable with disassembly hahaha check out tpg tuning on youtube.com thats the race team im part of, work on that 2g daily haha, our tuner teachs at wyotech, and also has a r32 gtr so i have someone else workin on his to talk to.

[ice_man152]

so another question for ya, every engine has its problems..4g63's get crank walk (seven bolts, six bolts are less prone), ive been told sr20det's have head problems?, and then the oil pump problems with the rb series. which would be the most reliable? and with those problems in mind which is the easiest to fix and stay fixed? haha im new to the nissan burger club. friend of mine has a 240 with the sr20 and thats who tuned me into here. any input would be awesome.

[Darius]

I just responded to your RB25 mani thread so I don't know if you are still wondering about buying an RB or not, but the most common and important issues with the RB motors are as Kamin stated. The crank collar that drives the oil pump was not extended out enough to get a good edge into the oil pump. After age and high revs, the collar slips, the oil drive cracks and no oil is pumped into the engine, turbo, or head until the entire thing blows up and oil sprays everywhere.

Other than that, the RBs run hot and need good cooling and duct work assoicated with it to facilitate the cooling.

[Cameron]

also if you plan on doing high revving, RB's have been known to retain oil in the head and dry the sump under high rev's (ie. drifting, Drag racing) and a good fix for the is what is called the drain back head mod. you tap the back of the head, where the welsh plugs are with a fitting, and run a return line back to the sump.

[Darius]

Not to throw a wrench in the spokes (even though I have my head tapped for an external drain) but there has been recent arguement about this oil collecting issue brought about in opposition to the arguement set forth by Sydneykid and Tomei. To me it makes sense that the oil drains are in the back of the head so the oil drains under acceleration. The problem seems to be that the oil does not make it to the oil pick up at the front/mid of the block to be returned to the oiling system. This is the same with many cars when extended periods of lateral g's are experienced caused by a continuous load in a single direction. With that said, I haven't had an oiling issue with mine going down the drag strip, but maybe the problems are experienced under extended highway pulls or race courses??

[Cameron]

that is a very good point, would there be some sort of baffle that you could use that wouldnt conflict the cams? hmm.. even though that is very logical, and i see it being true, sydney kids fix got the oil back to the sump regardless of if the oil stayed in the back of the head b/c of lateral g's.

[Shocker]

I'm skeptical about this issue, I did fix the oil pump drive, and fitting a proper pump, installed dual restrictors but am no longer going with oil drain lines. I will always insure my pan has a bit extra oil in it (to the hump on the dipstick). I shall see how it goes....

oh yeah, the big quad digits have been breached!

[Cameron]

yea, ill figure out what im gunna do when i get closer to the end of the build.. i already have the Tomei orifice, and the Jun crank collar, and i will soon be putting an order in with shey at nismo parts for an N1 oil pump..

And sorry to get off topic, but shocker, as far as your cams, is it possible to use S2 cams on an S1 motor, what is involved? if it is i'm interested. if you dont wanna clutter the thread, you can reply to my email. [email protected]

thanks.

[ice_man152]

u guys are awesome with responding hahaha, alot of stuff i had no clue about. heres a stuid question what the crap is s1 and s2? no idea what thats dealing with. told ya, im new to the nissan world haha

[Cameron]

the different series of the RB Motors, Some R33's were Series 1, and some Were Series 2. and the NEO is considered S2, and the R34 RB25 is S2.

but really the only difference i know on the R33 RB25 is that the CAS is different, and how the S1 RB25 has the igniter on top of the coil pack cover, i think on the S2 each coilpack has a separate igniter, or something like that. i know im probably wrong on that 2nd reason, because i dont have an S2, but its something along the lines of that, if not that..

[BoostFab]

there's always the option of spending some extra to get the NEO.

crank shaft shop will extend the collar the welding method nd machine for $150; so i don't think it's not that bad. just pull the head, pull the pistons and rods, send off the crank, have some new bearings put back in. then put back the pistons rods and other things you took out. that's not too bad.

[Cameron]

did you mean to post that in a different thread lol? or whos post were you replying to.

"Uhh, sorry, i believe you have the wrong number."

[BoostFab]

this is on topic.

read the 2nd post again!!!!!

you're too funny.

[Cameron]

ahhhh, i thought you were replying to me since i mentioned the NEO. my bad.. i misunderstood..

[BoostFab]

ahhhh, i thought you were replying to me since i mentioned the NEO. my bad.. i misunderstood..

hahha felling stupid now?? j/k lol

[Cameron]

well if you wouldnt quick reply, i could know who the hell you were replying to..

[s14 2510's]

If one welds the crank colar on there expect to have the crank checked for trueness. I got my crank colar for around 70 shipped from somebody who made them. I still have his adress. He had the cad program to have these made. If you want his adress I can give it to you. I might even be able to find his email adress if I look into my old emails. It shouldnt cost much to put the crank in a lathe and have the old one machiened off. My cousins did it for free at there shop. When I had the crank checked for balance after I redid the colar he said he hardy had to do anything but he did drill 2 spots. I had him repolish the journals too because I was buying acl calico bearings for it too.

[BoostFab]

If one welds the crank colar on there expect to have the crank checked for trueness. I got my crank colar for around 70 shipped from somebody who made them. I still have his adress. He had the cad program to have these made. If you want his adress I can give it to you. I might even be able to find his email adress if I look into my old emails. It shouldnt cost much to put the crank in a lathe and have the old one machiened off. My cousins did it for free at there shop. When I had the crank checked for balance after I redid the colar he said he hardy had to do anything but he did drill 2 spots. I had him repolish the journals too because I was buying acl calico bearings for it too.

you are missing the point. it's not welding the collar on there. it's welding to add metal mass to the crank then turning it on the lathe. it's stronger and it's solid and look like it came out of nissan oem factory. i'm not referring to welding a slip on collar. a slip on collar is tighten down by the allen bolt. you get the idea ?

you are not counting the machining cost addition to your $70 collar. the add $ to balancing as well. sum it up and we'll see.

[s14 2510's]

Even if one welds mass to the end off the crank and has it ground flat you should still get it balanced. Its like having water or dirt on your rims when you get them balanced. The guy that made my colar made them so you have to heat the colar up and press it on. I had it pinned in place too just for safty. I wouldnt ship a crank unless you plan to get it trued once you get it back. Even cranks sitting flat out of engines can warp over time just from sitting. rb cranks are alot stronger than some v8 cranks ive delt with. My crank hanging on end in a stand I welded up for it quick. Some roll the cheap way im just making shure its done right. I may go kinda overbord. But when I drive out of state to every drift event id like to see it last. Its getting beat hard. A spare shell is ez to find if that gets wrecked but a engine would put me down for some time.

[BoostFab]

it's stupid if you build your motor without having the crank ballanced.

the topic here is the collar. balancing is a different story, therefore I didn't bring it up.

[ice_man152]

ok back to the s1 and s2, dont know if you know anything about dsm's but a six bolt (first generation) is more reliable than the seven bolt (second generation) because it doesnt get crank walk as much. any scenario's with the rb25's where one series is less prone to get problems than the other one?

[s14 2510's]

it's stupid if you build your motor without having the crank ballanced.

The topic here is the collar. balancing is a different story, therefore I didn't bring it up.

Im just saying welding isnt the olney way. Your 150 plan to fix isnt that easy. But its a start. Im just trying to make a guy think of everything involved in doing the fix so people dont get over there heads. Some nood will read it and be "wow i can fix it for that cheap".Anything to help somebody have a short NRRBA membbership there dues are crazy lol jk

[rb25drag]

its expensive. you need to talk to your machine shop for prices because they will be doing the labor for you probably (unless your comfortable doing engine assembly/disassembly)

and my ls1 swap was hard, but worth every minute, and every penny. i wish i would have known this years ago i never would have messed with my RB25.

+1 I can't believe my buddy talked me out of going LS1!!!

Oh well we live and learn right?