Alright, i just bought some wonderful gauges and an A-pillar gauge pod from autometer, and i have a couple of questions...
First, the oil pressure gauge is mechanical, and it has a fitting and i'm pretty sure it goes where the oil pressure switch went, but i couldn't get any help from anyone i knew. do i have to take out the oil pressure switch and replace it with the fitting? also, will that little plasticy hose hold the hot oil without melting? i'm kinda scared about that one.
Second, where would be the best place to drill through the firewall? ive looked all over, and i haven't found a spot where i woudn't have to totally rip the dash...which is something that i DONT want to do. also, the gauge came with this really big grommet, like 3/8 inch, and that little scrawny hose doesnt need that much space, i definately know that. should i go out and get better grommets so that hot engine air doesn't come in and carbon monoxide, etc won't be a problem?
Third, where exactly should i route the 12v wire to? i want the gauge to dim when i dim the dash, radio, etc. down, if this is possible. how and where would be the best way and place to ground also? im totally dumb when it comes to electronics, i only know how to cut wire, strip wire, solder wire, and splice...but i cant read a wiring diagram worth sh*t.
the voltmeter shouldnt be too much of a problem, but could someone also give me a short runthrough if you either know or have performed this mod?
omg, thanks in advance to anyone who can answer this..i want to install these gauges tomorrow (saturday)
THANK YOU1!
Oil Pressure & Voltmeter gauge install...need some help!
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Shift__BODOM
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:48 pm
- Car: 1993 240SX Hatch
Here's what I did. For the oil pressure gauge, (mines electronic) I took out the oil pressure sender. Attached a stainless steel line to the block where the oil pressure sender is. With this extended line, I put a T at the end, one side is for the oil pressure gauge, and the other is for the factory oil pressure sender. The line I just cut a slit in the rubber gormet (however you spell that word) and stick the wires through that. Once that's done, route the wiring/tubing under the dash up to the side pillar. For the Volt-meter, you want to connect the positive to the positive terminal of the battery, that way you get the most accurate reading. For the dimming, it's one of the wires at the dimmer. I don't remember exactly which wire.
Re: (Silvia007)
Well, I've installed an aftermarket gauge but the hole in the block is for a 1/8 bspt fitting. Your gauge may or may not have an adapter for that. Using a 1/8 npt fitting instead would be a bad idea.
Like Shift said, most people T off of the spot where the stock sender is. Some folks just put a T right in the block, attach the OE gauge to one side and the aftermarket to the other.
If you don't want your OE oil gauge to work, I suppose you can just run the line right off of the block where the stock sender is, as long as you have the right fitting.
IMO, the best way to do it is to run a short length of stainless steel line, secure that to something and then hook up a T. Brass fittings tend to break and I'd be worried about hanging a lot of weight off of one.
As for the line that came with the kit, I'd hope it's able to hold up under temperature of your oil. If not, at least you can sue the manufacturer of the gauge after your hot oil bath.
Anyway, I'd be more concerned with making sure that the line isn't near anything that could sever it. I'm sure someone who's actually installed a mechanical oil pressure/temp gauge will have some more helpful tips as to how to exactly run the lines, etc.
Like Shift said, most people T off of the spot where the stock sender is. Some folks just put a T right in the block, attach the OE gauge to one side and the aftermarket to the other.
If you don't want your OE oil gauge to work, I suppose you can just run the line right off of the block where the stock sender is, as long as you have the right fitting.
IMO, the best way to do it is to run a short length of stainless steel line, secure that to something and then hook up a T. Brass fittings tend to break and I'd be worried about hanging a lot of weight off of one.
As for the line that came with the kit, I'd hope it's able to hold up under temperature of your oil. If not, at least you can sue the manufacturer of the gauge after your hot oil bath.
Anyway, I'd be more concerned with making sure that the line isn't near anything that could sever it. I'm sure someone who's actually installed a mechanical oil pressure/temp gauge will have some more helpful tips as to how to exactly run the lines, etc.
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Shift__BODOM
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:48 pm
- Car: 1993 240SX Hatch
Re: (BadMojo)
thanks, but has anyone put in the mechanical one??? i need help!
also, i need to know where the best place to drill through the firewall would be!
ok bye!
also, i need to know where the best place to drill through the firewall would be!
ok bye!
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Shift__BODOM
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:48 pm
- Car: 1993 240SX Hatch
Re: (Shift__BODOM)
retarded > me
alright, i got the voltmeter on fine. i used the ecu grommet like silvia007 said, and just ran the wires through the preexisting hole. i hooked up the ground wire to the ground located on the strut tower, and the hotwire to the battery terminal...now i can know the volts even with the car turned off! awesome. one quick question, is the gauge parasitic in any way? as in, since the gauge displays volts while the car is off, is it also using volts to work? and if it is, is it even enough to make a difference?
anyway, i didnt hook up the light yet, since i have no idea as to where the hell i should even begin to start looking...i really need some help on that one.
the oil pressure gauge is partially hooked up, i was past due for an oil change anyway, so i drained the oil (and spilled almost half on my driveway...i shouldnt have dropped the container i had it in...), and took off the filter and oil pressure switch. i got 9 feet of copper wire from oriely, since the 6 feet of nylon tubing was way too short, and ran it through the grommet as well. one problem, the little 1/8" NPT fitting isnt the correct fitting, so i stripped the hell out of the little brass POS. at any rate, my car is sitting in my driveway with no oil, filter, or oil pressure switch. im going to go get a 1/8" BSPT fitting from oriely autozone or loews..
haven't hooked up the backlight for that on e either..
i guess i blew things up more than i needed to, cause this is actually a really easy job! anyway, if anyone has any advice on the BSPT adapter or knows exactly what size adapter (if 1/8" BSPT is incorrect) to use, please help.
thanks mojo and silvia for the help! you made my life so much easier!
alright, i got the voltmeter on fine. i used the ecu grommet like silvia007 said, and just ran the wires through the preexisting hole. i hooked up the ground wire to the ground located on the strut tower, and the hotwire to the battery terminal...now i can know the volts even with the car turned off! awesome. one quick question, is the gauge parasitic in any way? as in, since the gauge displays volts while the car is off, is it also using volts to work? and if it is, is it even enough to make a difference?
anyway, i didnt hook up the light yet, since i have no idea as to where the hell i should even begin to start looking...i really need some help on that one.
the oil pressure gauge is partially hooked up, i was past due for an oil change anyway, so i drained the oil (and spilled almost half on my driveway...i shouldnt have dropped the container i had it in...), and took off the filter and oil pressure switch. i got 9 feet of copper wire from oriely, since the 6 feet of nylon tubing was way too short, and ran it through the grommet as well. one problem, the little 1/8" NPT fitting isnt the correct fitting, so i stripped the hell out of the little brass POS. at any rate, my car is sitting in my driveway with no oil, filter, or oil pressure switch. im going to go get a 1/8" BSPT fitting from oriely autozone or loews..
haven't hooked up the backlight for that on e either..
i guess i blew things up more than i needed to, cause this is actually a really easy job! anyway, if anyone has any advice on the BSPT adapter or knows exactly what size adapter (if 1/8" BSPT is incorrect) to use, please help.
thanks mojo and silvia for the help! you made my life so much easier!
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Shift__BODOM
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:48 pm
- Car: 1993 240SX Hatch
Re: (Shift__BODOM)
i guess no one knows where the dash lighting circuit is. oh well.
thanks badmojo and silvia007, i really appreciate the help. it got me through the hardest part...if only there was someone that could help me through this part.
thanks badmojo and silvia007, i really appreciate the help. it got me through the hardest part...if only there was someone that could help me through this part.
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Shift__BODOM
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 1:48 pm
- Car: 1993 240SX Hatch
woohoo!
woohoo! i did it! all it took was about 20 minutes with my Chilton's manual! anyway, here's how i did it, for future reference:
after looking for the lighting circuit for the headlights, corners, and parking lights, i finally found that it was one wire connected to the headlight switch. it was a red wire with a blue stripe on it coming off of a harness connector.
First, i installed both lights into the backs of the gauges. i then ran both grounds into one splice into the voltmeter ground. grounding was done. next, what i did was run both of the lights' hotwires into one wire using a Y-connector. i ran the single wire down in the space between the dash and the firewall next to the drivers side door. (rubber band the wire to the tip of a coat hanger, and have someone run the coat hanger through the space, and help guide it through.) after that i unscrewed the lower dash panel and let it hang (the one with the floor light on it), then took the lower steering column collar off. now that i had full access to the red/blue wire, i disconnected the negative battery terminal. (this was done last night around 8, so it was dark. i brought an alternative lighting source since the dome light wont work without the neg. terminal in) i cut the R/BL(thats red and blue) wire and ran both ends into another Y-connector, successfully splicing it. i crimped the ends down, and ran the single wire from the lights into the single end of the Y, and crimped, then plugged the negative terminal back in.
the moment of truth was upon me...i turned the lights on...lo and behold....IT WORKED! both backlights turned on! i disconnected the negative terminal again and electrical taped everything up, and made sure all the wires were secure, plugged the neg. terminal back in, and put everything back in its place.
for the oil pressure sender, i just used the 1/8 NPT fitting. it stripped a couple of threads out, i think because they were worn from the last time i tried to get the oil pressure switch out, after those 2 stripped, i screwed it in, covered with teflon tape, and it didn't leak once. i have since driven it VERY hard, just to test it. no leaks, dry as a bone. i think my oil leak is gone as well. i dont see hardly any new oil on my driveway. i do, however think that my oil drain plug is leaky. i might have to get a new gasket for that bolt. oh well.
now, on to my next project...UNDERDRIVE PULLEY! scheduled for friday afterschool and will probably carry over well into saturday morning. im debating whether or not i should pull an all-nighter. i probably will...lol.
anyway, thanks for the help silvia007 and badmojo, i appreciate the advice, and encouragement. im glad i figured this out mostly by myself, though, its character building-as my dad would say lol.
after looking for the lighting circuit for the headlights, corners, and parking lights, i finally found that it was one wire connected to the headlight switch. it was a red wire with a blue stripe on it coming off of a harness connector.
First, i installed both lights into the backs of the gauges. i then ran both grounds into one splice into the voltmeter ground. grounding was done. next, what i did was run both of the lights' hotwires into one wire using a Y-connector. i ran the single wire down in the space between the dash and the firewall next to the drivers side door. (rubber band the wire to the tip of a coat hanger, and have someone run the coat hanger through the space, and help guide it through.) after that i unscrewed the lower dash panel and let it hang (the one with the floor light on it), then took the lower steering column collar off. now that i had full access to the red/blue wire, i disconnected the negative battery terminal. (this was done last night around 8, so it was dark. i brought an alternative lighting source since the dome light wont work without the neg. terminal in) i cut the R/BL(thats red and blue) wire and ran both ends into another Y-connector, successfully splicing it. i crimped the ends down, and ran the single wire from the lights into the single end of the Y, and crimped, then plugged the negative terminal back in.
the moment of truth was upon me...i turned the lights on...lo and behold....IT WORKED! both backlights turned on! i disconnected the negative terminal again and electrical taped everything up, and made sure all the wires were secure, plugged the neg. terminal back in, and put everything back in its place.
for the oil pressure sender, i just used the 1/8 NPT fitting. it stripped a couple of threads out, i think because they were worn from the last time i tried to get the oil pressure switch out, after those 2 stripped, i screwed it in, covered with teflon tape, and it didn't leak once. i have since driven it VERY hard, just to test it. no leaks, dry as a bone. i think my oil leak is gone as well. i dont see hardly any new oil on my driveway. i do, however think that my oil drain plug is leaky. i might have to get a new gasket for that bolt. oh well.
now, on to my next project...UNDERDRIVE PULLEY! scheduled for friday afterschool and will probably carry over well into saturday morning. im debating whether or not i should pull an all-nighter. i probably will...lol.
anyway, thanks for the help silvia007 and badmojo, i appreciate the advice, and encouragement. im glad i figured this out mostly by myself, though, its character building-as my dad would say lol.