Oil Pressure Gauge Install for KA

[Thrwnsprkz]

ok, ive been doing some research via: "SEARCH" on the forum and this is the best link I found. http://nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=71767My buddy was hit in his old DSM and I bought an Autometer ultalite OP gauge off him... Im trying to get the jist of it, but Im retarded when it comes to engines.this has bacically stumped all my friends as well. I figure those of us whohave done the install whould be most helpfull. I gotta KA engine, I got a oil temp gauge on the way. Im looking into installing a 90' 300zx TT oil cooler. and considering the instalation of a oil relocation kit.1st I have no clue what what BSPT means or the other abriviation, 2nd theirs no reason the gauge shouldnt work right? its a -100psi and I assumed their universal (not to nissan spec) but I have planted the seed of dought after reading some articles. 3rd... safest way to install is a T fitting? but it can break!? my engines run pretty hard, drifting/autoX... I got a transmission mount but stock engine mounts

If I got a oil relocation kit could I use that to run from? or do you still need to run from the block fittin where the dummy light sensor is

does neone know what adapter I'll need to mount the meter correctly, Im guessing it looks like the meter is electrical sine the only wire going from the unit is +, -, and a long purple wire to the engine bay... (srry i sound like an idiot, I am... I do body work, but know squat about engines... just basics)

Graci everyone: Jon

Modified by Thrwnsprkz at 3:41 AM 12/27/2004

Modified by Thrwnsprkz at 3:41 AM 12/27/2004

Modified by Thrwnsprkz at 3:42 AM 12/27/2004
Modified by Thrwnsprkz at 3:43 AM 12/27/2004

[DAEDALUS]

BSPT and NPT are pipe thread specifications. Most vehicles use NPT, so most gauges have NPT threads. But Nissans use BSPT (28 threads per inch vs. 27 threads per inch), so you have to get an adapter for the gauge to thread into. Look real close and you'll see the threads don't line up exactly. Wherever you buy the brass T fitting look for the adapter as well. The T fitting won't break from how hard you rev, it'll break depending on how much weight is on it. Secure your lines well to minimize the weight/g-forces the fitting has to bear. If you're concerned look around for aluminum fittings. A filter relocation kit probably won't help you with the pressure sender problem, but I'm not certain.

[s13sr20chris]

if you are sure you want an oil cooler and everything just get it all at one time. you can get an oil filter adaptor to screw on in place of your oil filter then run stainless oil lines to a convinient spot for the filter and sending units. the other filter adaptor will most likely have holes with plugs in 1/4 inch npt for your sending units. from there you would run two stainless oil lines to the cooler. thats the expensive way to do it anyhow.

cheapo way would be to visit http://www.mcmaster.com and get some adaptors. get them to go from bspt(the fitting on the block/british standart pipe thread) to a compression fitting to a nylon tube(flexible) to another compression fitting to a npt piece(national pipe thread i think). you have enough tubing to relocate the sender anywhere you want and its isolated from vibration stress.

third way. go to http://www.nisport.com and buy their expensive adaptor. i have one on my sr and i hate it because the sr is too tight. there is no room for the oil pressure sending unit. i will be doing the cheapo option in the near future.

[BadMojo]

if you are sure you want an oil cooler and everything just get it all at one time. you can get an oil filter adaptor to screw on in place of your oil filter then run stainless oil lines to a convinient spot for the filter and sending units. the other filter adaptor will most likely have holes with plugs in 1/4 inch npt for your sending units. from there you would run two stainless oil lines to the cooler. thats the expensive way to do it anyhow.

I personally, like this option. It may cost more, but it's a much cleaner install than a mess of brass fittings and tubing. SPL Parts makes a nice sandwich adapter for $60-something.

As for wiring everything up, Autometer has instructions on their website. It's http://www.autometer.com

[s13sr20chris]

yeah, and a lot of stuff can be found at racecar parts wholesale or whatever its called too. of course anything sold by our sponsors should be bought there but not everything is available from them.

[Thrwnsprkz]

deff, thanks guy... im lookin into that SPL sandwich adapter. and at thos point in debating the oil cooler... maybe ill pass on it i dunno... i have no problem accessing it, but who knows... Im awaiting arival of my water temp gauge before i finnish up.

thanks for the tips! :Jon

[Thrwnsprkz]

hmm i went in to buy some wireing parts and a friend recommended that I avoid the T fitting b/c it'll affect the reading. he says just ditch the dummy light compleatly... also, I need the BSPT adapter, and I think I bought the right part... but i dont see how the OP unit will fit next to the oil filter... I think I read somewere that I'll need the OP relocation unit.

autometer makes one but I dont ever see it for sale on sites... ne ideas? cost of relocation unit?

thanks guys: Jon

[navysnail]

why does he say it will affect readings, because since oil is a fluid and is non compressable, it wouldnt experience a pressure drop or anything.

you can elimintate the op sender, but then your light would be on all the time

[BadMojo]

why does he say it will affect readings, because since oil is a fluid and is non compressable, it wouldnt experience a pressure drop or anything.

you can elimintate the op sender, but then your light would be on all the time

I don't think it will actually trip the light if the sensor isn't installed. I unplugged my stock "dummy light" and didn't get any light at all. It just won't light up if your oil pressure drops below (8 psi), in which case you're already ****ed anyway.

But, like you said I don't see any reason why a "T" would effect your oil pressure reading. The only thing you really have to worry about is hanging too much weight off of a relatively weak brass fitting being subjected to engine vibration. This is why some people run a short flexible line from the block to the T fitting and senders, to absorb some of that vibration and have way to secure those senders so all the weight isn't supported by your brass fittings.

[navysnail]

probobly not a bad idea with the lines to isolate the vibration and some of the weight

now that i think of it, if you unpluged the sensor, it wouldnt go off anyways, and that is a pretty much usless sensor anyways like you said