My independent told me the path is going to need an oil pan -- rust. Mine is the 3.5 -- can anyone tell me if it has a gasket or does it use sealant. I'm getting conflicting information and have never had to replace on on a Nissan.
My independent said using aftermarket is fine ... cheap $25 amazon ... OE is over $100.
oil pan replacement
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04pathse
- Posts: 777
- Joined: Sun May 02, 2010 2:55 pm
- Car: 2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE
2008.5 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
Re: oil pan replacement
The steel oil pan uses sealant. Did you look at your oil pan? if it is just some surface rust you might be able to just get away with removing the rust with a wire brush and rust remover then prime and paint and then spray some undercoating on it.
In the FSM there is an illustration on page 15 that shows the steel oil pan and its bolt tightening procedure/sequence along with torque specs.
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... hfinder/em
In the FSM there is an illustration on page 15 that shows the steel oil pan and its bolt tightening procedure/sequence along with torque specs.
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... hfinder/em
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atraudes
- Posts: 1106
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 7:46 pm
- Car: 2001.5 Infiniti QX4 4WD
- Location: Sammamish, WA
Re: oil pan replacement
I used the Fel-Pro OS 30777 gasket instead of using sealant when reinstalling. Much less mess, you don't have to worry about RTV floating around your engine, easy to remove in the future, and no leaks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016ZNHLW
I used a razor blade to break up the old seal as much as possible and then gave it a few good whacks with a rubber hammer. Then you use a razor and acetone to clean up the mating surface. Just be careful not to nick the aluminum pan when rooting around with that razor. Oh yeah, and don't use your fingernails to remove the old gasket material, even with gloves on. The slivers will have no problem sliding under your fingernails and slicing you up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016ZNHLW
I used a razor blade to break up the old seal as much as possible and then gave it a few good whacks with a rubber hammer. Then you use a razor and acetone to clean up the mating surface. Just be careful not to nick the aluminum pan when rooting around with that razor. Oh yeah, and don't use your fingernails to remove the old gasket material, even with gloves on. The slivers will have no problem sliding under your fingernails and slicing you up.
Re: oil pan replacement
I did glance at it -- it is rusty. My independent was worried about it failing if something should hit it -- guess this has happened. It's already got a dent. He should have just replaced it when he was doing the other work. I guess since it's got to go back for other work he figured it could wait.
I do remember reading someplace that when replacing it was replaced with sealant -- but I got two different answers from the parts guys at the dealer. I was in looking for a couple other parts and asked the guy I know and he said sealant .... when I called to see what the cost of the pan one of the other guys quoted a price for the basket.
I do remember reading someplace that when replacing it was replaced with sealant -- but I got two different answers from the parts guys at the dealer. I was in looking for a couple other parts and asked the guy I know and he said sealant .... when I called to see what the cost of the pan one of the other guys quoted a price for the basket.