yodawill2000 wrote:"The front of the pan will come down about 4 inches, but the rear external lip of the pan sits in a plate sandwiched between the engine and the transmission"
I'm confused and excuse my ignorance.
But the engine is at the front of the transmission. ??
How can the rear be anywhere close to the engine ???

Wow. I'd look into the possiblity of Jiffy Lube adding somehow contaminated oil or some sort of fancy oil filter coming apart.Gerardjg wrote:I have had this car for the last 50k and always used Mobil 1 3-4k and KN filters the prior owner got the car at 65k and always used Wally world or Jiffy Lube every 3k Dino Oil. It may have been sludge but it looked more like carbon tiny black beads clogged in the screen which after soaking the pick up inlet over night it still had to be scraped off. I do plan on a oil and filter change again before she goes back on the road.
Is there enough room to pull the oil pan out? Do you need the engine to come out in doing so?Gerardjg wrote:I finally had some time this weekend to play with the 95 J, The one that acquired low oil pressure in less then a mile of driving after all front sprockets engine seals and all other items in the T belt kit were replaced. The Compression was all good the numbers are listed below, the engine turns freely T belt is on correctly. The engine will run and sound great for about 2 minutes then the Low PSI light begins to flicker and top end gets noisy. Next I will look at the oil pump screen and Relief valve both in the oil pan. btw the Oil pump is turning.
Now for my question has anybody ever removed the oil pan I am up to the part in the manual which says to remove lower engine mounting nuts, remove stab bar and hoist engine prior to unbolting oil pan.
That is where I am confused how much do I hoist? a couple of inches or Just hold the engine weight.
Compression
#1 153 #4 160
#2 150 #5 155
#3 164 #6 150