Oil Pan Gasket

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S13FX
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Who here has used the felpro gasket on thier oil pan with a little bit of RTV in the grooves of the oil pan.

I plan on doing this and seeing how it works out, cause Im worried that if I just use rtv alone it will smear while trying to get it in and then reattaching the pick up tube.

This is also on a SOHC.


TheOne
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ain't the fel pro gasket a cork type gasket? don't use it, as you will either tighen the bolts too much and mess it up, or it wont seal correctly. just use a bunch of rtv and remember to lay it flat.

S13FX
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You mean no bead just lay it flat? And I dunno about the gasket Im gonna go check it out, it didnt look like a core type it looked like it was made out of some rubber material or something.

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virus77
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gasket + RTV for extra protection against leaks sounds like a tampon ad, lol

S13FX
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HAHA thats funny, now when using RTV I got the oil proof RTV but do I just put on a very thin coat of the RTV and just fill in the grooves on the oil pan and it should be fine? Or is just using copper spray on the gasket good enough? I also heard to let the RTV cure for about 30 minutes before installing it, cause that helps preventing it from squishing all over the place.
Modified by S13FX at 3:10 PM 11/21/2006

TheOne
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what i did on about 3 or 4 oil pans was just put rtv on the pan itself, just like you do for the front covers, a nice layer of rtv all over it.

also you are supposed to let the rtv heal, but when the pan is already bolted to the block, let it seal then start addin oil.

S13FX
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What do you mean by heal? Letting it dry completely or what?

TheOne
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yeah, if you don't let rtv "heal" or dry after its installed it wont seal......if you let it dry before you install the part it wont seal too.

KATwo40
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Permatex Ultra Grey FTW!!!

S13FX
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Awesome but only thing Im worried about is smeering the damn thing when I try to get the oil pick up line in there and bolted down cause then Im going to be mighty mad if the damn thing smeers. Thats why I was kinda leaning towards the gasket idea with some rtv on it, cause then it would be quite easy.

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ArticDragon192
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Easy is not always best. This is one of those cases. A litle extra work wills ave you a big headache,

S13FX
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Yes I understand and I totaly agree with you. Got any tips that might help me out with this.

This is what I was thinking. Filling up the groove with RTV then just making a thin layer on top and then a very small bead on that thin layer. That way if anything smeers at all I also have that small bead as back up, when I put the pan on it will kinda squish around a bit.

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Neejay
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Just curious why would having the gasket + RTV be BAD? I would think this would be a good thing...?

Am I reading the thread wrong?

TheOne
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there's some places where you don't want to double gasket.

am just sayin not to use the gasket if its cork material type, we used 1 of those, my friend overtightned the bolts and the thing ripped apart on most of the bolts, not only that but it also warped the surface of where the oil pan gasket goes.(which created a leak)

also i've always used just rtv for oil pan gasket, neva leaked.

S13FX
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Ok Well Im about to go try and install the oil pan. First I am going to use only RTV and hope it works, if it leaks my next step is going to be RTV with Gasket.

Wish me luck for a go on first time around.

nissanfanatic
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Do what the FSM says. Just use a 1mm bead of RTV. Works great... I had the cork+RTV back in the day and it ended up leaking.. Ever since I did just RTV, it has held up great.. The biggest thing is cleaning off the surfaces extremely well..

S13FX
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Well I tried and the oil pick up line just straight up kicked my *** and I cant figure out a way to do it. I dropped the sway bar all the way down, Now I'm thinking of even dropping the cross member.

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WDRacing
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I"m from the school of "to much is just enough" Of course this has sent me to the junkyard looking for new motors on more then one occasion, but thats because boost is worse then heroin.

BAck on topic, I've used Permatex and RTV, both with great results. On helo's we have a general rule and are actually trained when it comes to applying certain types of sealant for anti corrosion purposes etc. The key is called the squish factor. You want to use just enough sealant to have a small bit squish from the sides. This insures even coverage. I've used this method I'd have to say 45 times by now on motors alone, not always the pan, but it works there as well.

I just spilled hot coffee all ****ing over myself just now....****

Back on topic, Can you unbolt the oil pickup, sit it in the pan, position the pan then reinstall the pickup, bolt up the pan...done.

Try that, I had to do it that way on my RB20 everytime, there just wasn't enough room.

WD

S13FX
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Well the biggest problem is getting you hands in there to get the bolts on the pick up line. Im looking through the FSM right now and seeing how the cross member bolts up.

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WDRacing
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Whats are you going to do, put the engine on the lift and lower the cross member? HAve you thought about unbolting the motor mounts and lifting the motor some?

S13FX
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Thats exactly what I did I used my hydraulic jack and a piece of a 2x4 and lifted it by the bell housing and I took off the top bolts on the motor mounts. thats why I'm pretty sure I can just drop the cross member with out a problem. We shall see here in a few.

nissanfanatic
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yea you have to unbolt teh oil pickup... THe oil pan won't come out with the engine in the car otherwise...

S13FX
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I know I already tapped and got everything ready for oil return.. my problem is getting everything back together heh. Bolting that freaking oil pick up line back on is a biatch heh.

Florida240sx
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I was able to remove my oil pan with the pick-up still on.... Jacked up on the A/C compressor... Just tried the same with my friends and had to remove the pick-up....what a PITA

S13FX
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Ok So I practiced a couple times and I figured it out. First removing the sway bar helps tremendously, and second of all having those wrenches where they work like a ratchet is a huge help.

First I put the OIL pick up line in the oil pan then slid the oil pan in there. Then I bolted the 10mm bolt on the side first and then very carefully using the ratchet wrenches I got the 12 mm bolts in. Now my question is when I do this for real can I put the rtv on there and let it cure for lets say 10 or 15 minutes and then get the oil pan on there. Cause I think if I let the RTV dry a bit I might be able to reduce my smudge risk factor.

Now that I think about it having those ratchet wrenches is almost a must and removing that sway bar gives you a lot more room to work with.

nissanfanatic
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S13FX wrote:I know I already tapped and got everything ready for oil return.. my problem is getting everything back together heh. Bolting that freaking oil pick up line back on is a biatch heh.
Yea it is...

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WDRacing
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I don't like the whole curing idea...slap it up there chicken****...lol.

S13FX
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well I did slap it on there so hah and if that ***** leaks I got another idea for her. LOL. I got a picture of my oil return bung it looks kinda funny. As soon as I get my usb cord Il post it. It looks like a plumber got ahold of my pan lol.

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WDRacing
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So did mine...lol

SPIRONIUM
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DO NOT USE A "REAL" GASKET FOR ANY KA OIL PAN. For no worries use Nissan silicone gasket maker 1207C part# 999MP-A7007 its 18$ for 5.5oz Unless you really really trust your brand of RTV, use the Nissan kind just because this is the hardest gasket to deal with might as well do it right so it will last.


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