First off, how difficult is it to remove the oil pan on the SOHC?
If it is as much of a PIA as I suspect, I was wondering if the hole could be drilled using magnets and a magnetised drill bit and then bung welded into place.
I think the magnets would get out 90% of the shavings and what's left over would probably just harmlessly join the rest of the sludge.
As for the bung fitting, I'm just wondering if this could be welded without igniting the oil. Perhaps welding a small portion at a time or even a couple of tack welds to hold it in place followed by sealing with JB Weld or a similar epoxy.
Is this just crazy talk or might it work? I will also have an ample supply of TP for my bung hole.
Oil Pan Bung - Sans Removal
Maybe you should search. It is all over on here.
Its actually really easy to do the oil pan. The hardest part of it is getting it back on without killing the liquid gasket you have to use. Makes it easier if you undo the motor mounts and use an engine hoist and pull the motor up as far as you can. Also, sometimes you have to loosen the oil pump pickup to get the pan to clear and come out.
Rick
Modified by 95_240sx at 11:46 AM 11/24/2005
Its actually really easy to do the oil pan. The hardest part of it is getting it back on without killing the liquid gasket you have to use. Makes it easier if you undo the motor mounts and use an engine hoist and pull the motor up as far as you can. Also, sometimes you have to loosen the oil pump pickup to get the pan to clear and come out.
Rick
Modified by 95_240sx at 11:46 AM 11/24/2005
I have saw this weekend some honda guys here do this.They pressurize the engine (via the oil fill) with compressed air. They controlled the pressure by plugging and un-plugging the oil dipstick hole.When drilling, they pluggled and all the shavings come out the hole, they kept the oil on the pan and drain it afterwards.
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:: orion ::
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^^^ COol way to do it...!
You can also choose to punch, and not drill.
Use a SHARP punch, and cut a "+" into the pan. Then peel the 4 "fingers" out, and snip them off.
Make the hole round with a bigger, round punch...then weld on the bung. Easy, and NO shavings to worry about.
This IS made more difficult by having stuf fint he way (frame rail, A/C compressor, etc...) but works fine.
- Brian
You can also choose to punch, and not drill.
Use a SHARP punch, and cut a "+" into the pan. Then peel the 4 "fingers" out, and snip them off.
Make the hole round with a bigger, round punch...then weld on the bung. Easy, and NO shavings to worry about.
This IS made more difficult by having stuf fint he way (frame rail, A/C compressor, etc...) but works fine.
- Brian
Re: (:: orion ::)
These are some cool ideas. Wouldn't it be better to punch inward and thread in the bung?
Tell you the truth, I'm a lot more worried about the welding than the drilling. The shavings won't leave the bottom of the pan except via the filter - that's what it's designed for. I'm just afraid the oil will catch fire.
I don't know how much oxygen can get into the pan but who wants to take the chance. I'm thinking perhaps a couple of quick spot welds and some JB weld to seal it.
Tell you the truth, I'm a lot more worried about the welding than the drilling. The shavings won't leave the bottom of the pan except via the filter - that's what it's designed for. I'm just afraid the oil will catch fire.
I don't know how much oxygen can get into the pan but who wants to take the chance. I'm thinking perhaps a couple of quick spot welds and some JB weld to seal it.
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240SicknessX
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- Car: 96 240 SE
Re: (Mishka)
Instead of removing the oil pan, I slightly presssurized the oil passages via the valve cover pcv vent and drilled my hole. The pressure that was generated in the oil pan blew out any chips that would have fallin inside. After the hole was done i drained the old oil (fear of fire) and to remove any chips that might have fell inside the pan (i searched the waste oil with a screen and a magnet and found no chips in drain and rinsed oil).
It was quite a task to get the tig torch around the top of the bung when it was located 7\8th- 1in down on the side of the pan. I would not advise trying to weld the bung on the oil pan while its on the car unless you have the 23 years of welding experiance that my dad dose. The outside of the pan was cleaned with "brake cleaner" but the inside still had oil on the walls of the thin sheet metal, then weld the 1\4" bung to it. Try watchin your heat between the metals, fighting the oil contamination and navigating the torch around the cross member and any other things that got in the way of trying to get into a suitable position.
It was quite a task to get the tig torch around the top of the bung when it was located 7\8th- 1in down on the side of the pan. I would not advise trying to weld the bung on the oil pan while its on the car unless you have the 23 years of welding experiance that my dad dose. The outside of the pan was cleaned with "brake cleaner" but the inside still had oil on the walls of the thin sheet metal, then weld the 1\4" bung to it. Try watchin your heat between the metals, fighting the oil contamination and navigating the torch around the cross member and any other things that got in the way of trying to get into a suitable position.
Re: (240SicknessX)
I'm going with the air idea and a couple of good magnets.
As for the welding - what's wrong with a tack weld for strength followed by some JB weld?
I think it's all in the pan surface preperation.
As for the welding - what's wrong with a tack weld for strength followed by some JB weld?
I think it's all in the pan surface preperation.
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240SicknessX
- Posts: 259
- Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2004 5:15 pm
- Car: 96 240 SE
Re: (Edub1)
if you do have access to a tig machine and you want to weld it in the car, try to get most of it welded on there, less area for the jb weld to seal.
as for surface prep i wire wheeled a 3 1\2 inch square around the area that i located the return fitting. Then I used lacquer thinner on a rag to wipe away any oils or grease left on the outside of the pan. to each his own, my process was successful.
as for surface prep i wire wheeled a 3 1\2 inch square around the area that i located the return fitting. Then I used lacquer thinner on a rag to wipe away any oils or grease left on the outside of the pan. to each his own, my process was successful.
Re: (Mishka)
Mishka is right.
Do it once, do it right.
Never be lazy when playing with the motor, you will regret it.
Do NOT rely on possibilities such as "shavings shouldn't fall in" or "I doubt they will". Be 100% sure you did a proper job by taking the pan off and fully welding it.
None of this ghetto jb weld garbage. And I can only imagine how annoying it would be to maneuver a TIG torch down there.
It took me one night worth of work to take the pan off, drill, and TIG weld in a bung. The re-installation was quite tricky, with the liquid gasket, but still doable.
Your car represents your craftsmanship. If it was a factor of money I would say differently, but it is a factor of will and effort.
Do it once, do it right.
Never be lazy when playing with the motor, you will regret it.
Do NOT rely on possibilities such as "shavings shouldn't fall in" or "I doubt they will". Be 100% sure you did a proper job by taking the pan off and fully welding it.
None of this ghetto jb weld garbage. And I can only imagine how annoying it would be to maneuver a TIG torch down there.
It took me one night worth of work to take the pan off, drill, and TIG weld in a bung. The re-installation was quite tricky, with the liquid gasket, but still doable.
Your car represents your craftsmanship. If it was a factor of money I would say differently, but it is a factor of will and effort.
Re: (Titan)
What's the chance of that pan gasket leaking?
Also, did you have to disconnect anything else? The last thing I want to do is put stress on my AC lines. I'm still running R12 and don't want to have to replace it.
Also, did you have to disconnect anything else? The last thing I want to do is put stress on my AC lines. I'm still running R12 and don't want to have to replace it.
Re: (Edub1)
Depends on how well you manuever the pan into place without smearing the liquid gasket. If done properly, there will be no leaks.Edub1 wrote:What's the chance of that pan gasket leaking?
Also, did you have to disconnect anything else? The last thing I want to do is put stress on my AC lines. I'm still running R12 and don't want to have to replace it.
I don't have A/C, however I doubt you will have to remove any lines.
You will need to unbolt the motor mounts, loosen the transmission mount, and raise the engine in order to pull the pan. Some people have pulled their crossmember instead.
Re: (Chezedik)
I can't see why threading it in and a little JB Weld won't work. I think if the area is properly sanded it will be fine.
It's not as if this part will be under pressure or even submerged. I think there is some over engineering going on here. It's just a return line.
It's not as if this part will be under pressure or even submerged. I think there is some over engineering going on here. It's just a return line.
Re: (Edub1)
It is always better to be too safe, then to take a chance.
You gamble, you're gonna pay for it down the line.
You gamble, you're gonna pay for it down the line.
Re: (Titan)
I guess so. But short of the line completely coming off, which is preventable, all that can happen is a few spots of oil in the driveway.
Re: (Edub1)
No. The worst that could happen is you get shavings in your pan, which can translate to bearing failure.Edub1 wrote:I guess so. But short of the line completely coming off, which is preventable, all that can happen is a few spots of oil in the driveway.
Thats the worst case scenario.