Thats a possibility as well, because one time when it wouldnt crank at all, I tapped the connection with a wrench and a big spark popped up then the car crunk right up. And its not that cold, I live around Atlanta, GA...its been fairly warm around here.R32wanabee wrote:Also could be your batter cable or terminal. my friend just had to replace that. check your connections. Also is it very cold where u live now? That could hold back the starter.
It shouldnt be the battery, its fairly new and re-charged...at least I thought, but I will try having the voltage measured.DAEDALUS wrote:Pretty sure oil on the plugs wouldnt hold back the starter.Everything electrical works, but is the battery healthy enough to supply the large amount of current required by the starter? The starter needs more power than anything else.Have someone measure the voltage of the battery while you try to start the car. It should drop, but if it goes below 10V it might not be good, though the starter could still be the problem. Batteries are cheaper than starters, easier to replace, and probably fail more often.
I think when there is a click, then it starts up slowly...VERY slowly.DAEDALUS wrote:When you first turn the key do you hear the solenoid click right away?
More so the cost. I would just have my mechanic do it after I examined the amount of work necessary to get it on/off. I guess I can have my mechanic take it off, then take it to get it tested...xung wrote:So is it the cost or the work of removing and reattaching the starter that you're afraid of unnecessarily spending? Why don't you just take the starter to the store and have them test it for you?
Ok heres what happened today:DAEDALUS wrote:Well is sounds like a bad solenoid. If your car has a separate starter relay I'd risk the $10 or whatever and replace that first. Or you can test it too with a 12v source. Or heck, jump the starter and see if it spins right away. No need to remove it.
Got my mechanic to take off the starter and I took it to the auto store. My friend there tested my starter and a new starter and they both were putting out the same voltage. Took it back to the mechanic and another mechanic there said it might be the "neutral control sensor" or something of that nature. So he installed a kill-switch under my dash and it doesnt start like a new car, but it starts a helluva lot faster than before.DAEDALUS wrote:Well is sounds like a bad solenoid. If your car has a separate starter relay I'd risk the $10 or whatever and replace that first. Or you can test it too with a 12v source. Or heck, jump the starter and see if it spins right away. No need to remove it.