oil line feed confusion

[a240sxpinoy]

Ok. i got one question. i looked and searched. i was reading a post, posted about blowing turbos. i was all set on my oil line feed set-up, -4an with a restrictor for my stock t25, but after reading that post, someone stated if you run a -3an line you wouldnt need to run a oil restrictor?

i just want assurance. after reading the post i am some what thinking of running the -3an oil feed line instead of the -4an so i dont need a oil restrictor for my sr20 t25 turbo.

i just need an answer that i can run a -3an line onto my journal bearing t25 without having no problems. i want to do it right the first time.

thanks for your help.

[WDRacing]

A -3 should work without a restrictor. The return line is more important then the feed IMO. No bends/kinks and you should be ok.

A lot of people had problems blowing EBay turbo's, not so much the garret units. Garret themselves say that a restrictor is a last resort.

If you wanna be sure, just run the restrictor and the -3 line.

WD

[a240sxpinoy]

thanks WD.

[WDRacing]

Sure buddy...

[a240sxpinoy]

oh real quick, so the return line can't have any bends? what about this set up?...

zer...63745

i was plannin on running a similar set up but with only one hose from the turbo oil outlet straight to the oil pan...lmk what you think. thanks again

[240sxvaj]

oh real quick, so the return line can't have any bends? what about this set up?...

zer...63745

i was plannin on running a similar set up but with only one hose from the turbo oil outlet straight to the oil pan...lmk what you think. thanks again

Honestly i dont like the way that set-up looks, but it probably works since it is not parallel with the road. you shouldnt do that set-up because its too complicated when putting on the bolt for the engine mount. i bought my kit from JGS and the return line goes down with a slight curve which looks better( i'll try to post up a picture since my engine is out of the car). for the t25 set-up you should make it as short&straight as possible and go around the right side of the mount based on the picture instead of in between the mount. Remember it's all gravity that is pulling the oil down to the pan.

do it right the first time so you wont burn oil out of the tailpipe like me.

[WDRacing]

That one will work ok because the hose is "thick" and will resist being kinked and hold it's shpae very well. If you use something along those lines but make it even straighter you're good to go.

*EDIT*

Many members have used the JGS oil return with NO issues. I recommend ALL of their products.

WD

[480sx]

I used the JGS oil return kit. You really cant beat the value and quality of it. IIRC its about 30 bucks. You get the heavy duty piece of drain hose, the oil drain flange for the turbo, a gasket for that flange, the steel bung for your oil pan, along with two high quality hose clamps that wont pinch the hose.

I would recommend putting an angle on the steel bung so when you weld it into the pan its pointing up instead of strait out, or down. With the way the oil pans shaped, welding the bung strait in will make it so the bung has a downward angle on it.

[a240sxpinoy]

so the jgs oil return just came in the mail yesterday.

i am pretty happy with the return line. saved me a headache trying to figure out what to run.

240sxvaj can you post the picture of your return line??

also im going to be changing the oil and oil pan seal in a couple days, it is safe to drop the oil pan and weld the bung, and plug it until i go turbo right?

i just want to save the trouble of dropping the oil pan again later and welding it then. all i need left before going turbo is the fuel pump and ecu tune by emance, and since im a student, its going to take another month to be able to fork out the money.

but all in time!

[WDRacing]

Yep...you can weld all kinds of holes and bungs in the motor, the pan or pretty much anything so longs as they are plugged well.

WD

[240sxvaj]

That was the best way for me that doesnt conflict with anything, right were my hand holds it is right were the turbo sits. Make sure to make it as short and verticle as possible. Also make sure the bung is angled so that it just flows straight down.

Edit: Taking out the oil pan is a ***** so if you dont know how to do it then let me know. also do you have a aftermarket fpr? If you dont then make sure to get one, your stock fpr isnt made to handle high flow pump. Trust me on this one because i been through it and getting stuck on the freeway isnt worth it. It'll work for a while but then it will start F**king up on you.



Here's a picture of my stuff for my motor build. hopefully be done by end of June.
Modified by 240sxvaj at 12:38 AM 5/30/2008

[a240sxpinoy]

cool cool. how much does a decent fpr go about? and what brand should i go with?

and for the bung did you just angle it up? or angle up and a little to the right?

thanks for all the help guys

[240sxvaj]

how much does a decent fpr go about? and what brand should i go with?

and for the bung did you just angle it up? or angle up and a little to the right?

I'm using a Nismo type-B w/adaptor, but i should of went with something like aeromotive or SARD. They cost around $125-150, but you're going to need an adaptor which will cost around $40 and a gauge which may be close to $200 for the whole set-up.

For the bung angle it as much as you can vertically and little to the right just like in the picture. As long as it isnt perpendicular to the pan.