I've been having some timing chain noise lately, so that's been making be wonder about my oil pressure. When the car starts, the oil light flashes on for approx ~1-2 seconds. Is this normal operation?
I'm going to be getting a cheap oil pressure tester from JC Whitney, but the thought of having to replace the pump isn't a pleasant one. Does timing chain noise @ idle + oil light briefly at startup = bad oil pump?
Thanks.
Oil Light on at Startup
it may mean lack of good oil pressure but not neccesarily a bad pump. could be a restriction in the pick up screen, improper seal at the pick-up tube to the cover,improper weight oil was pretty common on the ka in the D-21, do the oil pressure check at the sender first to be sure you have a lack of good oil pressure. then during your journey to the pump check the above mentioned items for a problem.
D-21? Not familiar with that term.NISTECH wrote:improper weight oil was pretty common on the ka in the D-21, do the oil pressure check at the sender first to be sure you have a lack of good oil pressure. then during your journey to the pump check the above mentioned items for a problem.
Anyway, thanks Nistech. I suspect my journey will not be a pleasant one, but hopefully I get the KA purring like a kitten, or at least sounding less like it's ready to croak.
Sometimes. As far as I can tell, it doesn't happen once the oil is up to temperature. It's only for ~1 second at start-up, but there's something going on. Weak pump, clogged pick-up...who knows.240kid wrote:does it happen if you turn it off then start it right back up
I do know that it's not burning or leaking oil. There's timing chain noise at idle, but I'm going to start with the oil pressure and then address any weak tensioners, stretched chains, etc.
Update: I didn't get to do the oil pressure test due to having difficulty finding the right stupid adapter for the gauge and then some personal stuff that happened.
However, I did run some Seafoam (Naptha, isopropyl alcohol, and mineral oil) in the crankcase right before my oil change. I drove the car rather gently for a few minutes, and then changed my oil from Valvoline Durablend to the straight Valvoline Synthetic (Synpower). I went from a conventional/synth blend 5w30 oil to a 10w30 straight synthetic.
The noise remained the same until a few days ago. I have since noticed that I don't hear the tapping noise anymore. I suppose this can mean one of several things...
a) whatever the chain was hitting (guide) broke off. b) the combination of the Seafoam and the higher detergency of the Valvoline synthetic (supposed to be pretty good stuff as far as additives go) cleared up a clogged up pick-up or a gummed up tensioner/oil passage.
c) the synthetic seems to be a lighter oil than the Durablend AND temperatures have been high around here. Is this oil just flowing past a restriction easier than the old stuff?
I prefer to believe Option B, but I'm still going to run the oil pressure test as I'm getting the oil light for a second or so on startup sometimes.
I'm going to try to do the pressure test and also remove the upper driver side guide and check the chain for wear.
Edit: Regarding the oil light, I've also considered trying a Mobil 1 filter instead of the OE filter. I don't know who is making the OE filters these days (could be several sources, I guess), but I figure trying a different high quality filter with a different check valve design.
My father has always had better luck with the design of Puralator filters than the VW OE ones on his geriatric VW Golf.
However, I did run some Seafoam (Naptha, isopropyl alcohol, and mineral oil) in the crankcase right before my oil change. I drove the car rather gently for a few minutes, and then changed my oil from Valvoline Durablend to the straight Valvoline Synthetic (Synpower). I went from a conventional/synth blend 5w30 oil to a 10w30 straight synthetic.
The noise remained the same until a few days ago. I have since noticed that I don't hear the tapping noise anymore. I suppose this can mean one of several things...
a) whatever the chain was hitting (guide) broke off. b) the combination of the Seafoam and the higher detergency of the Valvoline synthetic (supposed to be pretty good stuff as far as additives go) cleared up a clogged up pick-up or a gummed up tensioner/oil passage.
c) the synthetic seems to be a lighter oil than the Durablend AND temperatures have been high around here. Is this oil just flowing past a restriction easier than the old stuff?
I prefer to believe Option B, but I'm still going to run the oil pressure test as I'm getting the oil light for a second or so on startup sometimes.
I'm going to try to do the pressure test and also remove the upper driver side guide and check the chain for wear.
Edit: Regarding the oil light, I've also considered trying a Mobil 1 filter instead of the OE filter. I don't know who is making the OE filters these days (could be several sources, I guess), but I figure trying a different high quality filter with a different check valve design.
My father has always had better luck with the design of Puralator filters than the VW OE ones on his geriatric VW Golf.