oil leak new 240 owner

[mikehonda]

just bought a 240 kade engine leaks oil near front by fan and pulley section, cant figure out whats leaking any problem areas. i think it may be the section under the valve cover in the front.

[Chezedik]

No problem areas there, but it sounds like a bad crank seal. No big deal. You take a break-over bar and a 24mm socket, get a piece of corrugated pipe. Slide the pipe over the break-over bar, and put the socket on the center nut in the pulley. Jamb them against the ground on the power steering side of the engine, get in the car and bump the starter (just for a half second or so). It will likely make a noise that will break your heart, but it's okay, that bolt is just REALLY tight. An impact will do this too. Once you have the bolt loose, grab the pulley with both hands, and shake it back and forth. It should wiggle it's way out, but if it does not you can probably rent a 3 jaw puller (DO NOT use a 2 jaw, you will warp the pulley) from your local parts store. With the pulley out you will see the snout of the crankshaft along with it's woodruff key and the oil pump drive (the oil pump is run by a goofy metal drive on the crankshaft and is built into the timing cover). When this seal fails it leaks like crazy since it is pressurized oil that is leaking out. The seal can be purchased separately, but I found it was cheaper (at least at Advance) to buy it in the set for the timing cover, and just through everything else away. Hook the oil seal or very carefully, pry it out with a screwdriver. With the new seal, slather it all over in lithium grease, and place it in the hole. Use a seal driver or appropriately sized socket (use flat ratchet side) and hammer to drive it in. Nissan has some sort of goofy spec for depth, and they tell you not to bottom it out. FUNK THAT! Do it anyway, this will put a new groove in the pulley, so you don't need to worry about it sealing, and if you are putting on the Orthodox or ASP pulleys, (at least the ASP will not fit if you don't bottom it out). Make sure to deburr your pulley, and clean it up before you reinstall. And now is a good time to put on even more lithium (there is no such thing as too much in this case). If it is a manual, put it in gear (lower gear the better, reverse is good too) and set the parking brake as tight as you can. Tighten the bolt as tight as you can, if you have an impact, zip it on and hold it for 3 or 4 seconds. You're done, you can have a beer now, just don't go driving afterwards.

[mikehonda]

thanks 4 the advice i replaced the seal behind the crank pulley. the oil stop leaking in the front area over the stabilizer bar. now it seams to be leaking from theoil pan area, is this common in this car.still cannot be sure it is coming from the pan ,but it is drippin from thebottom of the pan. i think the pan gasget is leaking and thefan isblowing the oil against te side ofthe pan and drippin to te ground

[mikehonda]

thanks sooo much 4 all this info . u brought up a oil pump seal ,that is pressureized. will this leak onto the alternator area ,because i am gettin oil in that area. it looks like that pump seal or possibily theoil pan.its killin me to nowbeable to see it ,being an x mechanic i am usually great with this kind of problem. thanks a gain for your time

[Nismo_Freak]

thanks sooo much 4 all this info . u brought up a oil pump seal ,that is pressureized. will this leak onto the alternator area ,because i am gettin oil in that area. it looks like that pump seal or possibily theoil pan.its killin me to nowbeable to see it ,being an x mechanic i am usually great with this kind of problem. thanks a gain for your time

It's easy to fix other people's cars, hard to fix your own.

<--- X mechanic.

[Chezedik]

yes, indeed it is. Just look at it this way, oil leaks always go down and back, unless they are pressurized. I would think that the alternator will either be a bad oil pan seal, or maybe from the sender. The oil pan leak is fairly common, I suspect due to the difficulty involved in changing it and how difficult it is to change a PCV valve on the Nissan. You will have to lift (enough to get the pickup to clear the baffle, say 3-6 inches) the engine to change the oil pan gasket. Have fun.

[mikehonda]

were is the pvc valve on this vehicle . how bad is the oil pan job ? the sending unit looks clean . there is oil also on the passenger side control arm how would it get there from the pan i appreciate the info

[Z_Ro_01]

I know this thred is old but im having the exact same problem

what about all the belts that are on the pully that I need to take out?Do I just losen all the belts and then after im done just tighten them back up?

And what exactly do you do to loosen the bolt on the pully?

Thanks guys

[ricebike]

major PITA from what i've heard of the DOHC engines...

well lookit here, i found it on 240sx.org FAQs section

click on me now!

yessir, neglecting this preventative maintenance item will surely lead to leaking seals... & if you done this already & still blowing seals, time to see if your rings are worn out... (well, based on my common cents thinking)

[Z_Ro_01]

mu problem is with the SOHC engine

[ricebike]

mu problem is with the SOHC engine

"whacha talking about, Willis?" (gary coleman)

elaborate...

[ricebike]

.... i think it may be the section under the valve cover in the front.

can you provide a pic of it? just may be a simple v/c gasket replacement... if the oil is leaking past those D-grommets...

waitaminute is it oil or some sorta silicone? meaning... fan clutch has a silicone goo & if that oozes out, it'll be coated around that same area... but a pic or 2 can verify this... got picz?