Oil leak from left hand side of engine

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manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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First off I want to thank all the members of this forum for all the invaluable help you have given me. I am very appreciative for the time you have given to answer my questions, as time is the only thing that is not repayable. Thank you.

1992 240SX SE Fastback

120,007 miles

I am in Miami, Fl

I did just change the oil and filter but this I checked for leaks. No leaks.

I do have alot of oil and dirt on the left hand side of the engine before the aforementioned oil change. I had a previous post where the car wouldn't start and that was because the knock sensor harnesses ground and wirer were filthy of oil and dirt.Well this must mean I have an oil leak. My father came over and told me it's probably a seal/gasket but he told me I would have to wash there.Oh yeah I don't know diddly about cars but the manual is helping alot.

Where would that oil leak be (I can search for how to do so an so on the manual once I know what to look for)? If I have to clean it how would I go about that (There are alot of electrical components and crap around the knock sensor location)?

Edit: My stinking brake lights wont go off. Before I was able to pull the brake pedal back with my foot and it would turn off. This is a pain since I have to disconnect the battery every time so It doesn't lose it's charge.

Thanks guys.

EDIT: I'll go borrow a digital camera from my brother tommorow. Thanks.
Modified by manasol at 10:20 PM 8/28/2005


180fan
Posts: 7799
Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2002 12:16 pm
Car: 89 fastback

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pictures speak louder than words in this case.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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Your probably have a bad brake light switch or the button fell off the pedal assembly.

The oil leak could be v/c gasket. Just look for the top of the oil stain and that is likely the source of the leak. I preffer over abundant amounts of brain cell damaging brake clean to clean the area of oil and grime. Seriously if you use the stuff make sure your in a well ventilated area and dont inhale to much of the fumes.Also use one of those large flat oil pans to catch as much of the gunk as possible. If you dont your driveway will look much like your engine and is much more difficult to get it clean.

EDIT: the left side of the engine is the drivers side. Since you reffered to the knock sensor I assume your talking about the right side which is the passenger side. All parts on a car are reffrenced as if your sitting in the drivers seat.

manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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Thank you for the replies guys. Thank you very much NISTECH for the help and the advice .Now I won't come off as a complete dummy, in cars, to others. LOL

manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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Well I checked my stop lamp switch/relay. I unscrewed it and hit the button manually and the light still doesn't turnoff. Strangely when I press the A.S.C.D. switch/relay (Cruise Control) the brake lights turn off.

-A while ago with the same problem I was able to pull the pedal towards myself and it would turn off but turn back on when i let go of the pedal. So it must be the switch.I am just going to buy both but hell how do I get in that area to check the proper distance of screwing it in? Why would ASCD turn off lights?

Sorry for taking so long I finally got back to work but getting rides from the boss. eek lolWork 10 hours daily so it's hard to do stuff.Thanks guys.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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You have your switches confused. The one that is turning off the lights is the stop lamp switch. Check where the switch pushes against. See if the pad the button pushes against is missing.

manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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YOU sob!!! How did you know! I was wondering how the hell does the brake hit the switch. LOL

Anyway the fsm shows the stop lamp on the right and the ascd on the right. The one on the left is the one turning off the light it's really got me confused.What's this piece and can I buy it? How do I get back there to measure?Sorry for all the questions.

I see you make alot of the posts I just want to tell you specificly NISTECH that I appreciate it.

Edit: I actually went to the library to get some books on automotive topics after reading a a few posts with the guys of nico and you, so I could learn more. This forum is great.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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Measure nothing. When you screw the switch in ,do it till the lights shut off then go a half a turn more and tighten the lock nut. Then test it by stepping on the brake a few times with the car running to make sure they dont stay on.

manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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Thanks you very much. I hope they sell this pedal stopper at auto advance.

manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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Yup the leak is at the cylinder head gasket. I decided that if I have to get in there and disassemble so many things I might as well change the chains and guides.

Is this job done with the fsm even a smart idea for someone with so little experience? Can only gain experience through practice ofc.

Ps: If I do change the aforementioned things should I buy all these things as to hit all at once? http://www.courtesyparts.com/S13_DOHC-TBKIT.htmlI would also like to say sorry if the link is not allowed but it's not for advertisement purposes.

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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You can skip the water pump and tensioners. Unless they are making nosie of course.

If I were to do the whole timing chain and head gasket. I would pull the engine out to make it easier. Getting the pan off is a pain in the car. If it where just the chain I wouldnt pull the engine but since you have to disconnect so much for the head I feel its just easier. You sure its the head gasket and not the just valve cover gasket??

manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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No, sir. I can't tell you that I thought they were the same because the names sound like each other. Plus saying that I thought they were the same would imply I know what each piece looks like. LOLI don't know what they look like and which is which. THe FSM has cylinder head gasket on pg 21 under engine mechanical.

Edit: if valve is the upper level near the plugs. I don't think so because like you said the oil leak can be spotted by where it begins to get dirty. It is extrmemly diry by the knock sensor, around teh screw is wet oil. But befre I pull any moves I'll get a photo. (That will take time since I go to work from 9:00 am to around 9 pm) Sorry about that NIstech I really aprreciate the help. Thank you very much

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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Ok valve cover gasket is above where the intake manifold attaches to the engine. The head gasket is below where it attaches to the engine.

manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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That area is clean I see no oil around it. I'll try to take a picture some time soon. Thanks
Modified by manasol at 8:58 PM 9/6/2005

manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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Well I took some pictures with my razr just until I can get a hold of my brother's camera at the end of the week.Here they are.




Modified by manasol at 6:22 PM 9/7/2005

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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Ohh the leak is near the front. That is likely just that small upper cover leaking. you can remove that independant of the head and reseal it. Just apply a thin coating of sealer on the head gasket where this cover will sit against when you are going back together. You will also be sealing between the cover and the head.

manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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Does that knock sensor harness have to be grounded to the screw? (The second picture above shows the thing loose)

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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nah thats just a support ring for the connector. It is not grounding it at all.

manasol
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:16 pm

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I apologize if I am asking too may questions about repairing my car. Thank you for not banning me. Have a look at this if you will.I think I am leaking from up here as well (the screw) LOL.

I had no idea it could leak from above. Is this repairable? Sorry second picture doesn't look like it even has smoke lol.

I get this white smoke that is not that thick. I was told it could be carbon that built up but I just know its not. I hear my engine on the right side of it by the intake sound like a really fast playing card you used to put on the spokes of your bicycle.

Hell I'll just throw it in there too, the car when it shifts gears (automatic car) it is just too rough for me. I don't think it should jerk so much and be loud. Is this just something the 240sx was made to be?
Modified by manasol at 7:03 PM 9/10/2005

NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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We dont ban people for asking questions. We get a little upset when they dont search but definitly not a bannable offense. I sometimes dont answer posts when they are blaitant searchable items.

Yes oil can leak from that screw. There is a rubber oring strip that goes around al yout plug holes and around the mounting bolts. If that gasket is tore or not sealing oil can leak from there. Simple gasket replacement can resolve that. Note when replacing it dont over torge the valve cover bolts or you will tear threads out of the head. The last moron that built my engine [before I owned it] did just that and now only 3 or 4 bolts actuall tighten up to torque spec.

The grayinsh smoke your seeing is likely a rich fuel condition. You may have a bad ground on your air flow meter or a O2 on its way out or a coolant temp sensor issue. All three of those can make it run slightly rich.

In 240 convertable section there is a pretty good thread on autotransmission issues. Read through that thread. You may find some similar issue that your car has in it and some simple tests you can do to resolve the problem.


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