Wow. What's the response like? I'm betting it's almost N/A with that tiny thing.ska69 wrote: So I finally replaced my broken rb20 t3 turbo for a subaru td04l turbo, the swap turned out great (made a t25 to td04 adapter), car runs much better, though there are some idle and cold start issues:
ska69 wrote: 1) I noticed some oil under the car, upon closer inspection the left engine mount and the block is covered in oil there - like it's leaking from the oil supply for turbo hole on the side of the block (stock hardline and fitting where replaced with a new high pressure hose with a banjo fitting and bolt). what could be the problem, provided that the bolt was screwed in very good and there where no leaks up until today (for 2 weeks or so)?
Can you elaborate on that, or post a pic? The stock oil feed cannot be replaced with a banjo, at least not straight. The block has an 1/8-BSPT fitting, which means it seals with a tapered thread. Banjo bolts have straight threads, and seal with crush washers against very flat surfaces, which the block is not. The two fitting methods are incompatible, so I'm curious how they bridged the two standards, that involves a banjo on the block side. I can imagine some ways to do it, some will be leak-free, some will be not. Also, 1/8 BSPT is not very well known globally, I don't know how well it is known over there, can be they mistook it for something else.ska69 wrote: The line was custom made at a local shop specializing in hydraulics for heavy machinery. the line itself isn't wet, oil's on the block..but I'll double check, maybe the banjo fitting's gone bad.
Code 55 is good. Code 55 means all systems are GO.ska69 wrote:ecu shows code 55
Thanks. I'll be replacing it soon with a working onefloat_6969 wrote:Bad air regulator. The idle control valve under the throttle body. It's stuck shut. That's really common.
I like it. I really can't say much more as I haven't had much time to test it out. boost is set at 0.5 bar at the moment and perfectly suits me at least for now. If and when the turbo will get to small for me I'll just go up to a td05blownhemi wrote: Wow. What's the response like? I'm betting it's almost N/A with that tiny thing.
sorry, don't have any pics at the moment. Thread on the banjo and the stock adapter fitting was the same. I had to go with such banjo as the stock hardline has been jammed and later cracked during removal. so a new flexible line and a banjo bolt with crush washers seemed like a perfect solution.blownhemi wrote: Can you elaborate on that, or post a pic? The stock oil feed cannot be replaced with a banjo, at least not straight. The block has an 1/8-BSPT fitting, which means it seals with a tapered thread. Banjo bolts have straight threads, and seal with crush washers against very flat surfaces, which the block is not. The two fitting methods are incompatible, so I'm curious how they bridged the two standards, that involves a banjo on the block side. I can imagine some ways to do it, some will be leak-free, some will be not. Also, 1/8 BSPT is not very well known globally, I don't know how well it is known over there, can be they mistook it for something else.
yepblownhemi wrote: Code 55 is good. Code 55 means all systems are GO.
That was my first thought, when I've read your oil setup, but I didn't quite understand. Now, if I understand correctly, you are still using the small factory elbow on the block, and the banjo bolt is screwed into the stock elbow? The other end of the elbow is a metric 12x1.0 thread (IIRC), so it would look strange, but it would kind of work. Except in that case the problem is, the rim of that elbow is not flat enough in its original shape for a crush washer to seal properly.ska69 wrote: sorry, don't have any pics at the moment. Thread on the banjo and the stock adapter fitting was the same. I had to go with such banjo as the stock hardline has been jammed and later cracked during removal. so a new flexible line and a banjo bolt with crush washers seemed like a perfect solution.
are you suggesting that the oil leak is caused by inaporpriate oil flow hardware? if so, what would be the right way to do the job?
Thanks for your reply. No, I'm not using the factory elbow (http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/2389/blockfitting1.jpg) - it was removed and a banjo bolt with the length and thread was fitted with crush washers. I guess it's leaking from there - still haven't got a chance to take a closer look.blownhemi wrote: That was my first thought, when I've read your oil setup, but I didn't quite understand. Now, if I understand correctly, you are still using the small factory elbow on the block, and the banjo bolt is screwed into the stock elbow? The other end of the elbow is a metric 12x1.0 thread (IIRC), so it would look strange, but it would kind of work. Except in that case the problem is, the rim of that elbow is not flat enough in its original shape for a crush washer to seal properly.
Generally speaking, you'd need to know what oil pressure the turbo needs, and what oil pressure the engine supplies. That's the only sure way to tell if a restrictor is needed. But generally, a restricotr is needed for both types of turbos, only journal bearings need bigger holes in the restrictor, than ball bearings. That tiny td04l will definitely need one. BTW, that factory elbow is the restrictor (~1,5mm) in a completely stock setup.ska69 wrote:Thanks for your reply. No, I'm not using the factory elbow (http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/2389/blockfitting1.jpg) - it was removed and a banjo bolt with the length and thread was fitted with crush washers. I guess it's leaking from there - still haven't got a chance to take a closer look.
So I have no restrictor in the line (is it necessary for a journal bearing turbo at all?)
I found this in another thread here (http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll18 ... thread.jpg) but this would lead removing the banjo and going with a different solution, I guess.
ok, thanks! looks like a decent solution.blownhemi wrote:Generally speaking, you'd need to know what oil pressure the turbo needs, and what oil pressure the engine supplies. That's the only sure way to tell if a restrictor is needed. But generally, a restricotr is needed for both types of turbos, only journal bearings need bigger holes in the restrictor, than ball bearings. That tiny td04l will definitely need one. BTW, that factory elbow is the restrictor (~1,5mm) in a completely stock setup.
To be able to keep your existing banjo ended line, you'd need an adapter. And an adapter of a rare kind. It has to be 1/8 BSPT male on one end, and have a metric inside thread on the other end, with a relatively large flat rim, that the washer can seal against.ska69 wrote: ok, thanks! looks like a decent solution.
also could it be done without getting rid of the banjo flex line I have? 1/8 bspt to an/jic female and a banjo bolt?
Should work. At least I really hope so, because that's what I'm gonna use on my Honda.ska69 wrote:as for the restrictor - would it be ok, if there is a restrictor in the banjo bolt on the td04l (found this http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c127/ ... G_0304.jpg and a description saying that oem impreza td04 oil feed banjo has only one 1.5mm hole.)?