Oil Gauges

[bcar240]

I am about to install some gauges, an oil pressure and temp gauge. I am getting electrical ones so I don't to mess around with running lines through the firewall. I know that you hook the backlights up to the dimmer under the panel, but I was wondering where you hooked them up for main power. If I remember correctly, I heard someone say once they hooked them up to the same power wire as the radio. Eventually, after I go turbo, I may have 4 or 5 gauges, so I don't know if the radio wire will handle that much. I remember someone talking about running theirs to the fuse box (either the one in the driver's footwell or the engine bay) and I was wondering if anyone knew a good way to do this, or if the radio wire will indeed handle the extra draw (maybe I could put 3 one the radio and the others somewhere else.) Also, I know I need a BSPT to NPT fitting to hook them up, and I think it would be a good idea to get a stainless steel hose and attach the fitting somewhere so it wouldn't be hanging off the block. Has anyone done this and could give me a good location and an approximate lenght of steel tubing? I searched already and I found enough to get me here, but still have these questions. Thanks in advance guys!

[BadMojo]

It's definitely a good idea to have the steel hose, instead of hanging all that weight off of one brass "T". I'm not sure where you could anchor it...maybe somewhere on the firewall.

The alternative that I was thinking of was a sandwich adapter for the oil filter. It's got two 1/8 BSPT ports, so you could monitor both oil pressure and temp. To me, it seems like a bit more elegant of a solution than the steel hose. You also won't have to worry about the braided steel hose rubbing against any other critical engine components.

[ddgsxr504]

Whew this will take some typing! OK here we go. First off if you are running an electrical oil pressure gauge then you won't need a stainless braided or solid line. Only an electrical wire running from the sending unit that will attach itself to the block via the dummy oil light below the filter. After many a trial and error on my part your best bet is to go mechanical on the oil pressure gauge, it's more acurate and installing it is pretty simple depending on where you plan on placing your gauge. To wire up the electrical side of a gauge I spliced into the ignition wire under the steering column for my oil and volt meter that are mounted on the pillar. you can locate this by looking at the wiring diagram on a chilton or FSM. That way when you turn the key it goes hot, as for the light you already got it, (splicing into the dimmer switch). As for the correct fitting it depends what type of guages you run, personally I have Autometer because they are cheaper, less than $100 per gauge but you can get the correct fitting from Summit Racing. It will have to be a (-4npt fitting that goes to 1/8in fitting) I got one those and bought a brass "T" fitting, and double female barrel fitting. The -4npt goes in the block and is connected to the "T" via the barrel then from there my oil line runs staight out the other side of the "T" and I reattached the dummy light to the bottom of the "T". Even though the dummy oil light sending unit is metric it will attach into the "1/8in" T" with some teflon tape and a good torque down. MAN that's alot of typing. I have plenty more info to give you so post another thread with any specific questions. Oh and one more thing if you wind up running a mechanical oil gauge, the hard plastic hose they include with the gauge is more than strong enough. If you want to spend extra on a stainless braided thats on your wallet.

[bcar240]

wow, guys thanks for all that, it cleared up a lot of my questions. I decided to go with electrical gauges because I found some that I have heard good things about that are full sweep and not too expensive. I remember seeing something about those oil sandwich adapters, I saw one on ebay, but at the time I thought it was just some type of engine bling (was like anodized blue aluminium.) I see how they could be useful now, does anyone have a good sorce for these or is ebay the best bet (the ones I found were about $30 + $10 shipping)? I am assuming that they arn't something you could find at an auto parts store, but it would be great if I could. Also, should I use teflon tape to seal the threads with, or will the torque be enough? Someone mentioned in another thread before that teflon tape might melt. Thanks again!

[ddgsxr504]

No teflon tape will not melt. As for a sandwich adapter I'm not sure what you mean but the best material to go with is brass, its soft but strong. I used to run Aeroquip aluminum fittings on my electrical gauge but the sending unit was too heavy and it broke off of the block while I was doing about 80mph on the freeway at 10pm. I sat there and watched my oil pressure drop till about 12psi before I killed the engine and coasted on to the shoulder. Electrical is fine but most sending units are big and hard to install but if you find something you like stick with it.

[bcar240]

that is good to know

here is an example of a sandwich adapter, it goes between the block and the oil filter.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WDVW

That is exactly why I was worried about the fitting if I put it in the dummy gauge spot. The sandwich thing seems a lot simpler than securing a fitting from the hole to something else.

[bcar240]

well, things changed on me... I got my gauges the other day and I realized that a sandwich adapter wasn't going to work with them because the sending units won't fit that close to the block (I guess those adapters are meant for mechanical gauges). So I guess I am going to have to go back to the "run extension off block" idea. I think I have found a place to mount the T, and I went out to get the parts. So I go by a few auto-parts stores, one of them says they don't have ANY fittings/adpaters, another didn't keep many in stock, and none of them had ever even heard of BSPT. The last one I went too looked a part up in a tech book and said the fitting might be a 1/8 GAS coming out of the block. So where did you guys who went this route get your stuff? I am looking online, but if you have any links shoot em over here. I was hoping to get this done this week . Also, none of them had any braided steel hose either, where is the best place to get that, I need about 2 feet of it with 1/8 NPT fittings on both sides (or one side with BSPT).

On a side note, I saw in the little book that came with the gauges that it recommends a 1A inline fuse to be used with the gauge, but since I am hooking up 2 gauges to the same line, do I still use a 1A?

TIA

[Thrwnsprkz]

ok, here we go...Im mid installation of a mechanical water temp and electric oil pressure gauge...I have gone thru all the scenerios I could think of, the only way I was able to get the electric oil pressure gauge to work was to run autometers 3' line relocation kit to the sensor mounted remotely in the engine bay as a fuel filter woiuld be...

I wish I was at home so I could just give you the part numbers for the parts needed... call autometer and ask then what you need what you have etc etc... the'll really helpfull & the'll give you the part #'s then just call summit and order the parts... (what I did) i have the parts waiting for my arivial at home right now

It cost me about $40 for the 3' relocation unit (says it has fittings etc allready attached)and $15 for the NPT to BSPT fitting adapter for the block. should work, and DEFF use teflon tape to seal the threads.:Jon

[eddiec]

just a thought on your electrical hookup. if you decide to splice a wire unde the dash or the radio whatever, you could use that power to open a relay, witch can then be used to power your gauges. i too had heard of a blank spot on the fuse panel, but didn't want to fuss with removing it. when i installed elec fans i spliced into the radio power wire and used that a trip a standard 30a relay.

here soon i will be plumbing in an oil cooler and remote filter system. i used parts from canton racing. heres pics of the stuf. the block adaptor can be clocked to any position by loosening the big hex bolt on top. the remote filter mount has 2 extra ports for sensors or other plumbing.

Modified by eddiec at 5:07 AM 3/15/2005
Modified by eddiec at 5:09 AM 3/15/2005

[bcar240]

I think I found the relocation kit you are talking about. I keep running in to more things that confuse me. All of Auto Meter's tubing kits seem to come with this thing called a 3/16" ID fitting (do they have adapters included with the kit?) And the auto meter kits at summit have -4 AN fittings. Does anyone know wtf is up with all these different standards? If I get an ID or AN fitting do I need to have an adpater to NPT? Here are what I have found so far:

http://egauges.com/vdo_acce.as...Cart=h ... m/...00442 have to click show all under part type and go to gauge supply lines (I think.)