oil feed/return setup something new, i swear ;P

[blubottlemax]

No, you don't have too. If you don't mind getting metal shavings in your oil pan. Some people have just flushed some oil through and called it good, without problems. When I got my bung welded in, I cleaned out metal shavings for a good 20 minutes though, and that was with the pan removed. Do you really want to take the chance? took me about 2-3 hours total, including driving down to the welders, waiting for him to finish, removing the old RTV, etc. Or, you could go with WMD's idea, which will work just as well if not better. Of course, it will cost a lot more, unless you happen to have the high quality pump required or can get a good discount. You don't have to remove the engine to remove your pan. Simply drop the front swaybar, loosen the engine and transmission mounts, and jack the engine up till you have enough clearance. I put my jack under the transmission, and left the mounts bolted still, just loose enough that I could get the pan out. You also have to remove the oil pickup once you have the pan loose, it can be a pain, but by no means impossible. I'm sure you could get a shop to do it for you as well, though they will most likely charge you the book rate, which requires removing the whole crossmember, and is probably an 8 hour job or more.

[sil80drifter]

I'm not against cool ideas or progress or whatnot but the normal oil return method has worked for people for DECADES, and yeah some of the member do have to run with low oil, but if you don't know wtf ur doing, u can screw up a lot of things, not just your oil return.

Adding parts to the engine compartment is stupid if not necessary. If you road race and NEED an oil cooler (somw do and still don't), ok fine get one. if you messed up on your oil pan and NEED a better return method, fien do the pump. But 99% of us don't NEED those things and they just add more things to go wrong and leak and fail to the already DIY job of turboing a KA. I wouldn't spend the extra money and time to do this. I was thinking about an oil cooler earlier, but I realized I'll never in a million years NEED it, since even my friends who AutoX their turboed cars (and KA-Ts) never have any oil related overheatign issues. Most of you out there are on a similar boat. Think twice, and figure out whether you NEED it. Not just because it's "cool" but because you actually will see anoticeable performance gain or reduction of wear great enough to justify such a modification. That goes for almost ANYTHING you'll ever put on your car.

sil80

[onosqv]

I'm not against cool ideas or progress or whatnot but the normal oil return method has worked for people for DECADES, and yeah some of the member do have to run with low oil, but if you don't know wtf ur doing, u can screw up a lot of things, not just your oil return.

Adding parts to the engine compartment is stupid if not necessary. If you road race and NEED an oil cooler (somw do and still don't), ok fine get one. if you messed up on your oil pan and NEED a better return method, fien do the pump. But 99% of us don't NEED those things and they just add more things to go wrong and leak and fail to the already DIY job of turboing a KA. I wouldn't spend the extra money and time to do this. I was thinking about an oil cooler earlier, but I realized I'll never in a million years NEED it, since even my friends who AutoX their turboed cars (and KA-Ts) never have any oil related overheatign issues. Most of you out there are on a similar boat. Think twice, and figure out whether you NEED it. Not just because it's "cool" but because you actually will see anoticeable performance gain or reduction of wear great enough to justify such a modification. That goes for almost ANYTHING you'll ever put on your car.

sil80

Hmmm, 99% of us don't NEED a turboed KA. most of us don't NEED anything faster than a honda civic hybrid. Most of us don't NEED to go Auto-x or compete in any sort of car competition.

It's all relative. Sure, adding more things will make it more complicated, but for me, the best way to learn something is to do it or research it.

Maybe there was a reason WD didn't want to expose his idea to the world first time he did it (notice it's taken weeks and weeks for anyone to find out). It's probably because he is aware that there may be some kids who read this and go "o schnap, i'mma gonna go do this right now" and get in way over their heads. I'm sure once WD has perfected this, he will do some sort of write up.

Shoot, if we didn't do things we didn't NEED to do, there would be no such thing as aftermarket performance parts or drifting.

From reading this thread, I have started to consider ideas of combining the gravity drain method w/ a pump - combining the best of 2 worlds. Theoretically, I should be able to run the right amount of oil, get the just as efficient if not more power of the pump, as well as a backup if the pump fails of gravity drain. That way if I have something monitor the pump and it ever fails, I should have enough time to pull over or at least make it home w/o blowing a seal or something. Something along those lines... sure we can do what's proven (which we do most of the time), but innovation comes from experimentation and failures.

[WDRacing]

Make sure you insall a one way valve or check valve. Or else the pump will pull the oil out of your pan. All you have to do is wire a light to the pump, when its on the pump is on, or vice versa, pump fails the light comes on. $10 at radio shack and your done.

The reason I waited, and am still waiting before releasing exact parts, is because I want to make sure the parts last longer then 1 week. I just got my car running decent, but the clutch is worthless on boost. So I haven't even really tested my kit on repeated boost runs.

If it works out well, I'll be selling it as a kit.

[onosqv]

Cool, I'll be one of your first customers . I need something in a couple - a few months in any case.