Oil Feed fittings.......SOB+PITA=stressing me out

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Florida240sx
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Pics in a second....The damn brass T brok off. Had a slight leak.Thought it wasn't tight enough. I just touched the damn thing and the male end broke off.


Florida240sx
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Never ending story




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WDRacing
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Are you using thread tape? Sorry to hear ya busted a fitting, I accidently left a copper crush washer off of my rosan fitting on the pressure side of the turbo input and it sprayed oil all over the place.

Titan
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You can see he is using teflon tape.

Which brings me to two things.

1. Use ONLY steel fittings in such a critical area.

2. Use Teflon paste instead of teflon tape for an oil line. Teflon tape is not soluble in oil, and can cause blockage if bits are sheared into the passage.

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fiznat
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Brass should be perfectly fine as long as you dont overtighten, and teflon tape is VERY commonly used on all types of fittings- including oil. Once again, the answer is to do things right. Dont overtighten, and tape fittings correctly so that you arent sending pieces of tape all over the place.

Sorry to hear, Florida. Quit messin things up and get to the driving already! lol

Titan
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fiznat wrote:Brass should be perfectly fine as long as you dont overtighten,
I was not referring to the breakage due to over-torquing, but to the application of tapping off the block. Crack propagation is much higher in brass then steel. This can play a vital role down the road due to engine vibrations.
fiznat wrote:and teflon tape is VERY commonly used on all types of fittings- including oil.
Simply because it is commonly used, does not mean it is the best for the application.

Otherwise no one would pay the extra price for teflon paste.

The shearing effect on the tape due to the tapered fitting can sometimes cause small bits to fall into that passage. This isn't just coming from me as a mechanical engineer, but from several millwrights with decades of experience.




98240
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That sucks. You should try the part from tuner toys. This is just one peice and it has outlets for oil return line, oil gauge, and oil sensor. I am about to take the setup I have on there now and replace it with the tuner toys one.

http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OTODK

Florida240sx
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Trying to find somewhere to get a steel fitting.I've read before about the brass fitting breaking....now I have experienced it. It ran good for the 73 miles the other night.So I know it's potential WTF $30 to get that one fitting......$22 part and $7 shipping.....Anyone got another place that is laughing at you when you make a purchase???
Modified by Florida240sx at 8:58 PM 3/21/2006

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fiznat
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JGS tools' kits have stainless steel fittings:



Titan-Really, I've never heard about tape shearing becoming much of a problem for the oil passages. I imagine one could greatly reduce the possibility of that happening simply through neat taping and taking care. Interesting to hear, though. Definitely something to think about.

Florida240sx
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I couldn't fiund it though.I was on their site....I should of called. Only thign on their site I could find was a SS american to foreign adapter. When I went to look at their kit it had a brass T. Went to local plumbing store and got a galvanized T and a male-male adapter which goes to my amer-foreign adapter. Going to go to the track tonight hopefully.

nissanfanatic
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http://www.mcmaster.com

Use at least a stainless steel BSPT fitting. I have broken off two of those in my oil filter tree. Neither of them were from overtorqing. There is just so much vibration+heat in that area that stress fractures occur and the brass fitting will eventaully fail. Esp if you use an Autometer sending unit. The added weight of the unit puts too much stress on the fitting along with the harsh vibration.

I have removed my oil filter tree twice because of that bullsiht.

Florida240sx
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What I have now is. 1/4 T (galv.) male-male galv adapter With a zinc npt to bpt adapter(into the block) then the oil line restrictor to the feed lien and autometer gauge screwed into the t.

slipnfall
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If you go to teflon taping school, they'll teach you to 1) never put tape on the first 1-1.5 threads... the initial thread catching is what will leave tape in your passages. 2) make the first 1-2 wraps lose and stretch the last. You don't want the threads cutting through the tape before you install it! And of coarse 3) tape in the same directions of the threads.

There's no reason you can't use PTFE teflon on any threads(except where it's impervious to the fluid) as long as you do it right and don't install a ton of it.

Brass is better sealing than steel/stainless, but of coarse won't hold the high heat/strain like steel will. Teflon tape/paste is almost neccessary on steel lines.

::edit:: typo ::edit::

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C-Kwik
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wow...were you bored or something? =P

As long as we are on teh topis though, I'll throw in my 2 cents. I used paste myself. It's pretty inexpensive and not a bad thing to have around the house. One tube will probably last most people their whole life time as long as it doesn't dry out. In any case, if you use a paste, let it sit overnight before starting the car. I used some on the turbo oil inlet fittings and it ended up forcing oil past it. Letting it sit allowed it to cure enough so the oil couldn't push the paste out of the way. It probably won't leak much, but for me, it was enough to leave a light film of oil around the inlet and look like crap.

slipnfall
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haha, no I didn't literally go to school for that... we have vendors come to work quite often to teach proper use of their products(ie swagelock)

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steve s14
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you can hook it up the way i did. it works really well and it's pretty cheap.



here is how it looks normally. just remove the plug, retap the hole.



install a 90 degree fitting and your set!



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