wouldn't that be "UOA"?zozoka1212 wrote:Used Oil Analysis
Sorry, don't understand the "theft/racoon robbery experience" comment.Don't take it personally, but I've spent enough on engines inmy life to not start using anything without some UOA proof...anything else is just "assuming" or looking for cheap horsepowerat the expense of unnecessary top-end wear.Poyzinous wrote:If you have deep pockets or theft/raccoon robbery experience, go with the ester oil. The VQ motor likes at least a synthetic blend. Not jiffy loob oils.
Renewable Lubricants is Ester based (soy), made in Ohio, and from thenumbers I've seen on Audi's and BMWs, It has consistently shown less than half the wear and twice the change interval of Redline or Motul. Amsoil is not ester based, but the euro spec does have a higher ester content......JonSentientbydesign wrote:I'd look into an ester based synthetic. Some of Motul and Amsoil's line are ester based and should have similar "adhesion" characteristics as the Nissan Ester Oil.
This is kind of like asking "What should I buy to mod my G?"Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT wrote:Ok so what is the "best Oil to Buy"?
This is the one questions that I want to know!
DJ
I think it comes down to maximum cash in your wallet over the lifetime of ownership. The cheapest way to go would be not to change your oil and sell the car at 25k or even longer, that is the cheapest way to go for oil changes.Sentientbydesign wrote:
This is kind of like asking "What should I buy to mod my G?"
Depends on what your goal is. Maximum engine protection. Maximum power. Maximum fuel economy. Maximum cash in your wallet while still keeping the engine "healthy".
I believe Royal Purple was one of the few synthetics that did not perform well on extended change intervals. Something about the molybednum falling out of suspension and causing problems.kmckis1029 wrote:so far i love RP...
the only data i have is that at every oil change for the last year, i usually go 4k-5k miles, my oil still looks nice, and makes me want to push my change interval longer.
I learned'd something today!Now I'm convinced that my 4 quarts of Quaker state Q full synthetic + 1 quart of Ester oil are a great combination for my engine. That and 2,000 mile intervals.jandpharper wrote: RP makes HP, butjust can't lube the top end like other oils.
Poyzinous, you are probably on to something most wouldn't eventry to understand. Interesting, I've considered doing the same. What ester are you using? Have you considered analysis to see howyou can extend the interval or whether it's a good combination?Poyzinous wrote:I learned'd something today!
Now I'm convinced that my 4 quarts of Quaker state Q full synthetic + 1 quart of Ester oil are a great combination for my engine. That and 2,000 mile intervals.
I prefer Mobile 1 ... here is the last UOA from my HR if you are interested:jandpharper wrote:... I have not been able to find one UAO on a VVel using RP????
You're right, from what I've read, moly and boron are additives.Poyzinous wrote:the high molybdenum count worries me. and the high boron count is good I guess. Its not beneficial to the motor, but its probably a product of the oil itself.
Is this the standard test for $22.50 ??terrycs wrote:
I prefer Mobile 1 ... here is the last UOA from my HR if you are interested: