oil cooler woes....

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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StricNyne
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ok i am getting angry... here is my issue the engine builder dosent want to reuse the stock oil cooler and for good reason (it gets contaminated once used from crap like dirt in oil and its permenantly embedded into the cooler wafers) ok the cooler i am refering to is the one on the oil housing right where the oil filter goes, i contacted a few people and some people said sonic clean it which my builder said wont do the job, and when i looked into replacing it i came across a 500 doller price which is for the entire housing not just the cooler and on top of that it will take a eon to receive from japan... ok i looked into doing this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1

but i would have 2 oil filters which wont hurt the motor but space might be an issue and on top of that i need to find a sandwich plate of proper threading and size to cover the oil cooler spot. i could use a block off plate on the cooler port and use the sandwich plate on the existing oil filter but finding this block off plate is impossible and fabbing one is out of question so i am stuck does anyone know of a xreference for this part i am honestly desperate here i swear with a rb if its not one thing its another... tonight i will post up some pictures of the housing to help people get an idea what i am refering to


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Coolwhip
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I believe the RB20 oil filter housing will swap on to the RB25 block and it deletes the stock Oil Cooler.

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StricNyne
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cool beans buying one form jhot as we speak

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300Plus
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is your oil filter already relocated? confused.... But I know you can remove the oil cooler and all and just hook the lines straight to the block if you get the right fittings. but I have scene it done

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krayton
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just curious what part is clogged? is dirt on the outside? some pics would be nice.

i mean as long as the oil passages inside (which i dont know how dirt would get in there) are clean, just use it and dont run water coolant too it. and take that extra change your putting to this stuff and get an air to air cooler.

as of now i havent put an air to air on mine, but the water passages are open to the air and not even plugged up. since the oil doesnt run through that part, i just bypassed the water lines. i plan on getting an air to air before i beat up on it, but i have no problems right now

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StricNyne
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well, lets say some dirt is in the oil and dosent get cought in the filter when it goes through the fins of cooler it gets trapped there bd builds up and since the cooler isnt readily changed thats where it will accumulate, i am talking about on the inside of the cooler also, its not clogged at all i could put it back on right now, just per the engine builder its something that whould be replaced not reused, i would RATHER have a air to air cooler but i gotta either block this off or do something, it looks VERY similar to the output for the oil filter just dif threading, my stock oil filter is not relocated, when i look at the stock coole ri am not sure how thatt would be done it honestly looks similar to a huge oil filter with cooling fins and water in and out lets it would need a custom fabbed cover if anything, i just bought a rb20 oil housing that if bolts will be PERFECT and i would recomend this to people doing a rb25 rebuild cause you WILL have same problem i am having unless u throw old cooler on

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krayton
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wish u could really take a bunch of pics to help explain.

but IIRC the oil doesnt go through the fins. thats to dissapate heat which the water goes through.


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StricNyne
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thats the perfect picture !!! he said replace the part with fins and 2 water nipples tho is there something specific i should ask him in regards to it ? so where would the oil contaminate it ? no would u happen to have a pic of the rb20 oil housing i dont think i saw the pressure sensor i see in yer pic

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krayton
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sorry no rb20 pics. but thats my motor. and the oil cooler is open like that.

the fins and stuff is just for the water to go through. so....if thats what he wants to replace, say F it and leave it open. put that rb20 money to an air to air.

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StricNyne
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med i already bought it for 25 dollers shipped if i get it in a couple days and it only has the 1 output and it works i will be happier

Bluefire
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i swapped my filter block / cooler out for the RB20 one also, since i was running an external cooler. I must say it really cleans up the intake side a bunch without the rb25 block.

Also you will want to pick up an aftermarket sandwich adapter anyways. The RB20 block does not have the port for the factory oil pressure sensor. In fact it doesn't have any extra ports...

-Bluefire

l0nestar
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StricNyne wrote:ok i looked into doing this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1
That part looks nice, especially since it is CNC Machined, but I'm spending the bank and going MOCAL. Along with other things But yeah, that piece from Ebay does look pretty decent! Just need some ends for it

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Carl H
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a 1/8" bspt tap set will fix the no provisions for oil pressure sensor problem quickly on the 20's oil tree...

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StricNyne
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ahhh thnx for help guys i bought the rb20 housing, i will have machine shop do the provision for the pressure sensor and i and just buy a sandwich adapter and run an external cooler thnx guys !!!

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Carl H
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the tap has to be bsp not npt, this is very important!

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300Plus
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Keep us posted los... I'm still waiting on those pics btw lol

gawdzilla
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Carl H wrote:the tap has to be bsp not npt, this is very important!
theres no hole tapped out in the rb20 fitting already for the oem sender?

digzsublime
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gawdzilla wrote:theres no hole tapped out in the rb20 fitting already for the oem sender?
Nope. Oil pressure senging unit hole on my RB20 is in the block a little more towards the firewall than the oil filter.

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StricNyne
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rb 20 oil housing came in its awesome hehe i might not tap it for oil pressure sensor and just use the outlet on the sandiwch cooler plate

http://www.airlines-pneumatics...10130

BOOOYAWW not gunna get that one but a similar one

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Carl H
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boo brass fittings in engine blocks.

Darius
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Carl H wrote:boo brass fittings in engine blocks.


What about brass fittings in the head for external oil drain lines?

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Carl H
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thats a little diffrent hose doesnt weigh nearly as much as an oil pressure sender.also there is a bit more space to distribute load on drain fittings vs the tiny 1/8th" fitting there.

240z4u
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Carl, why don't you approve of brass in blocks?

I ran several brass fittings in my last motor. Lasted 9 years without a problem (they were 1/8" fittings btw.) I have used them in fuel systems etc.. never a problem.

I am sure this is provided that they are decent quality fittings. I agree there is a place for everything, but brass has served me well.

Evan


Bluefire
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makes you look like you builts your motor at home depot...


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StricNyne
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nonoono gunna use fitting on sandwich plate for cooler not even gunna tap stock rb20 housing the sandwich has a npt and i am gunna use a npt to bpt fitting and use stock psi psi sensor

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Carl H
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ive seen too many motors die because of brass fittings, especialy when used on pressurized oil systems.i know of several ka guys who have run brass fittings and killed their motors because the brass couldnt support the weight of the oil lines and pressure switch.i do have brass fittings here and there on my car, but i try to avoid using them where they will be subject to stress due to engine vibration.

240z4u
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Home depot? WTF

I buy all my high performance brass fittings at ACE!!!

Evan

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StricNyne
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ahhh hmmm i have a question in regards to the rb20 oil housing and the oil bypass that is on the rb25 housing what can be done about it ?

Bluefire
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Just run a sandwich adapter like you said.... Greddy and blitz make them for like $60. and i believe they have the 1/8" bspt port for the stock sensor, as well as two more ports for aftermarket temp and pressure sensors...

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StricNyne
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but the rb25 housing has a oil bypass for lets say filter gets clogged the new rb20 housing i use dosent


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