The guide I'm following to pull my engine says disconnect oil cooler lines from the oil pan, but Im not sure exactly what I'm supposed to be disconnecting as nothing there seems like it would interfere with pulling out the engine? I was supposed to have it out today but this is stopping me

Are you TT? If memory serves me right the NAs DON'T have an oil cooler. If you are TT then the oil cooler lines run up to the front where they attach to the oil cooler and are likely secured to the body, you need to unplug them from the oil pan or you'll damage them.

(edit: added "DON'T" to correct statement)

NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 14, 2020 10:54 am

Are you TT? If memory serves me right the NAs have an oil cooler. If you are TT then the oil cooler lines run up to the front where they attach to the oil cooler and are likely secured to the body, you need to unplug them from the oil pan or you'll damage them.

I'm TT but it looks like the lines are cut by the previous owner at the two hardpipes right next to the radiator?
If you view the diagram here https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/st ... 7b132d.png
the silicon lines are cut at "5"
Is there a line reroute that people do?...

Why someone cut the hard lines when the connections are only a few inches away is beyond me.WTF.

itsa300zx wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 18, 2020 10:32 am

Why someone cut the hard lines when the connections are only a few inches away is beyond me.WTF.

this entire car is total s***-show trust me. when you think of the worst possible z32 you could get I got it. A total waste of money, this was my dream car and I made a bad choice and got a bad car because I didn't know any better. Those lines are the least surprising thing compared to everything Ive come across. At this point to own a proper z32 I need to rebuild the engine AND get a new chassis. I bought this car and found out that the rear quarter had been replaced improperly causing the body to be misaligned, originally it looked like the door was just sagging, nope. Then when I took off the front fender, the rail had been crushed in, cut through and bent back out. Then I found out that my exhaust smelled like straight gasoline when i tried to put the windows down or take the tops off. I took it to a Z shop and they told me injectors bad, nope it was actually cyl 5 and 6, no compression, dumping fuel into cylinders. Had to find that one out on my own. 5-6 fried pistons. Previous owner put some ebay a** clutch and turbos on it. basically the second I bought the car was the second I threw at least $7k into a sewer, cause thats how much I'll be out if I totally part out the car.

I'm sorry to hear that, since the Z32 never got the F&F fame like some other chassis the prices didn't jump fast enough to keep them out of the hands of chop artists (sadly much like the GD Subarus). Lots of Z32s have met their fate at the hands of bumbling idiots and ebay mod kings. Might be time to cut your losses, part out what you have and start again. It sounds like a nightmare money pit.

NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 20, 2020 6:03 am

I'm sorry to hear that, since the Z32 never got the F&F fame like some other chassis the prices didn't jump fast enough to keep them out of the hands of chop artists (sadly much like the GD Subarus). Lots of Z32s have met their fate at the hands of bumbling idiots and ebay mod kings. Might be time to cut your losses, part out what you have and start again. It sounds like a nightmare money pit.

If I part out I'm not buying another one, I cant risk the same thing happening all over again. I really want this car. I figure the best way to mkitigate my losses and have something to show for my investment is if I can fix the bottom end, get some turbos I have rebuilt, and buy a new clutch, I have the car at least together mechanically. Then when I stumble upon a decent roller or a chassis I can transfer everything into it. I'd even take a nice N/A chassis at this point. The car WAS done correctly 2 previous owners ago, but someone somewhere got dishonest, the engine was supposed to be fully built, but it looks like it has stock pistons from what I can see with my endoscope, but all the other supporting mods are there.

Full exhaust
greddy SMIC
boost controller and turbo timer
z1 driveshaft
koyo radiator
I have an extra set of turbos that came in a box with the car, and they are supposedly from Jim Wolf but I dont know how to tell them apart from stock turbos, maybe someone can help me.
I have already bought brand new nismo 740cc injectors
a dual intake with a selin translator
and had the eprom reflashed for all that at jim wolf
brand new pilot super sports

Post some good photos of the turbos(inlet, exh turbine, any markings) we can try to indentify the turbos. My guess might be JWT sport 500 if the housings look like Garrett OEM.

itsa300zx wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 20, 2020 7:01 am

Post some good photos of the turbos(inlet, exh turbine, any markings) we can try to indentify the turbos. My guess might be JWT sport 500 if the housings look like Garrett OEM.

alright thanks, here 3 pics

https://imgur.com/a/dPNGqmY

Looks like JWT sport 500, you can use this to compare.

I should've been more specific. Part the body and get a roller is what I meant. I'm on my 3rd body (both previous bodies went in wrecks). Per a quick google search the turbos have the 687 stamp on the turbine housing which seems to point to Sport 500s but I'm not 100% since its been years since I've done the research. The engine could have been rebuilt with stock components, the stock bottom end is capable of supporting ~500hp safely so don't poopoo it just because it has stock pistons (even if they are cast). Whats wrong with your bottom end? Also I just fixed my comment above, was typing too fast. the NA's DONT have an oil cooler.

itsa300zx wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 20, 2020 8:06 am

Looks like JWT sport 500, you can use this to compare.

I think that you are right, maybe I can pick your brain some more if you have the time.
What is the minimum I should do for this engine, to run it safely?
I just want to enjoy the car and not break my bank.
Should I absolutely being doing a full rebuild with a kit from z1, I think its around $2k.
If the other pistons are ok can I just have the back two replaced and put new rings all around?
Do I have to touch the cylinder heads or anything else?

NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 20, 2020 8:16 am

I should've been more specific. Part the body and get a roller is what I meant. I'm on my 3rd body (both previous bodies went in wrecks). Per a quick google search the turbos have the 687 stamp on the turbine housing which seems to point to Sport 500s but I'm not 100% since its been years since I've done the research. The engine could have been rebuilt with stock components, the stock bottom end is capable of supporting ~500hp safely so don't poopoo it just because it has stock pistons (even if they are cast). Whats wrong with your bottom end? Also I just fixed my comment above, was typing too fast. the NA's DONT have an oil cooler.

the car didnt seem to have the pickup it should and my exhaust smelled like fuel. When I would rev it, it just didn't sound like it should compared to other z's, like it was not running on all cylinders. I did a cold compression test, I know now I should have done it warm, but all cylinders were around 125-135psi until I got to cylinder 5 which had like 60 compression and cylinder 6 had no compression. Leakdown was high on all the cylinders and when I put an endoscope down them I saw this. The one all jacked up on the edge was cylinder 6. The thing was, there is an air/fuel ratio gauge and super apexi airflow convertor in the car and from what I looked up the number at idle and under boost seemed like they were good. I also checked ecu for codes and got nothing.

https://imgur.com/a/JnKYzeP

I think that you are right, maybe I can pick your brain some more if you have the time.
What is the minimum I should do for this engine, to run it safely?
I just want to enjoy the car and not break my bank.
Should I absolutely being doing a full rebuild with a kit from z1, I think its around $2k.
If the other pistons are ok can I just have the back two replaced and put new rings all around?
Do I have to touch the cylinder heads or anything else?
[/quote]

IMO, if you are doing 2 pistons, might as well do all 6. Key thing is to have nice even compression across all 6.
Doing just the rear 2 might have them higher than the other 4.
Reliable? what kind of power goals, as Nolimit stated, 500 hp on OEM internals is fine with supporting mods.

itsa300zx wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 20, 2020 10:26 am

I think that you are right, maybe I can pick your brain some more if you have the time.
What is the minimum I should do for this engine, to run it safely?
I just want to enjoy the car and not break my bank.
Should I absolutely being doing a full rebuild with a kit from z1, I think its around $2k.
If the other pistons are ok can I just have the back two replaced and put new rings all around?
Do I have to touch the cylinder heads or anything else?

IMO, if you are doing 2 pistons, might as well do all 6. Key thing is to have nice even compression across all 6.
Doing just the rear 2 might have them higher than the other 4.
Reliable? what kind of power goals, as Nolimit stated, 500 hp on OEM internals is fine with supporting mods.
[/quote]

500hp is fine because it seems like the turbos will be the limiting factor and i can only afford to rebuild what I have. I can do all 6 pistons but should I just go with wiseco at that point? Is it ok to keep stock rods if they look fine?

Yep, oem rods are plenty strong for 500hp

itsa300zx wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 20, 2020 11:57 am

Yep, oem rods are plenty strong for 500hp

so when I take my shortblock to a machine shop whats the minimum they should be doing for me?

Absolomb wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 20, 2020 1:34 pm

itsa300zx wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 20, 2020 11:57 am

Yep, oem rods are plenty strong for 500hp

so when I take my shortblock to a machine shop whats the minimum they should be doing for me?

Well you are opening a can of worms when you ask that.
There are so many "while you are in there" parts.

I personally would do a full rebuild and reuse the good parts after a good inspection of them(crank, rods etc)
-pistons
all new bearings
oil pump
gasket set
hone cylinder bores to fit pistons.
just off the top of my head.

If the cylinder walls and bearing surfaces are within spec at minimum you should:
- Clean up the block (all contact surfaces)
- Deck the head mating surfaces
- Blueprint (to confirm the bearings, rods, pistons, rings are all the correct grades if using OEM or correct dims if using aftermarket) check the FSM for all the grades
- New or good used OEM pistons and rods (assuming everything is within tolerance) not sure what shape your pistons will be, I would assume since you had no knock the rods and crank should be fine
- New rings
- New bearings
- New gaskets on block and heads
- Confirm valve seats are in tolerance (if not rework)
- New cam and half-moon seals on heads
- New OEM Oil pump (cheap insurance)
- New water pump and timing belt kit (some more cheap insurance)
- All new rubber everything (hoses, belts, seals, etc.)

While you're at it, you should have the turbo seals checked, not sure if that even possible without spinning the turbo to operational velocity but your machine shop (if its a good one) should be able to recommend something.

NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 21, 2020 5:40 am

If the cylinder walls and bearing surfaces are within spec at minimum you should:
- Clean up the block (all contact surfaces)
- Deck the head mating surfaces
- Blueprint (to confirm the bearings, rods, pistons, rings are all the correct grades if using OEM or correct dims if using aftermarket) check the FSM for all the grades
- New or good used OEM pistons and rods (assuming everything is within tolerance) not sure what shape your pistons will be, I would assume since you had no knock the rods and crank should be fine
- New rings
- New bearings
- New gaskets on block and heads
- Confirm valve seats are in tolerance (if not rework)
- New cam and half-moon seals on heads
- New OEM Oil pump (cheap insurance)
- New water pump and timing belt kit (some more cheap insurance)
- All new rubber everything (hoses, belts, seals, etc.)

While you're at it, you should have the turbo seals checked, not sure if that even possible without spinning the turbo to operational velocity but your machine shop (if its a good one) should be able to recommend something.

I planned on taking the turbos to be rebuilt actually the last owner said he took them off because at least one was blowing smoke and I can feel some shaft play from my understanding it should only be a few hundred each for a rebuild

Don't cheap out on the rebuild, have someone experienced in the craft and someone with access to the correct balancing equipment. Just having somebody do a bench rebuild without balancing them after will equal blown turbos in the near future.

agreed, don't cheap out on turbos. If unable to properly re-balance, sport/gt 500 chra are available new from Z1.

I was planning to take them to JE IMPORT PERFORMANCE in maryland

https://www.melett.com/technicalarticle ... er-repair/

I have no idea who JE are or what they do but a turbo requires some very specific machinery to balance that non turbo specialty shops will not have because of the expense of the equipment. Read the article in the link I provided. You may be able to take the turbo to JE for them to send it to turbo shop of their choice which would be fine (make sure you ask), at the least be armed with the right information when you speak to them. If they tell you they are going to do a bench rebuild on it and not high speed balance it NEVER LET THEM DO ANYTHING TO YOUR RADIO FLYER WAGON much less your car. No matter what any billy, joe, or bob tells you, you CANNOT properly rebuild a turbo without balancing it. Some TRY to use the "trick" of marking the shaft and nut and then setting the nut "exactly" where it was before but when you are talking hundredths or a gram and 200,000 rpm its not likely you'll ever hit the sweet spot. Even if you're lucky you might get 1 turbo out of 8575748938778548939329.2 to balance out by using that technique.

NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 22, 2020 6:40 am

https://www.melett.com/technicalarticle ... er-repair/

I have no idea who JE are or what they do but a turbo requires some very specific machinery to balance that non turbo specialty shops will not have because of the expense of the equipment. Read the article in the link I provided. You may be able to take the turbo to JE for them to send it to turbo shop of their choice which would be fine (make sure you ask), at the least be armed with the right information when you speak to them. If they tell you they are going to do a bench rebuild on it and not high speed balance it NEVER LET THEM DO ANYTHING TO YOUR RADIO FLYER WAGON much less your car. No matter what any billy, joe, or bob tells you, you CANNOT properly rebuild a turbo without balancing it. Some TRY to use the "trick" of marking the shaft and nut and then setting the nut "exactly" where it was before but when you are talking hundredths or a gram and 200,000 rpm its not likely you'll ever hit the sweet spot. Even if you're lucky you might get 1 turbo out of 8575748938778548939329.2 to balance out by using that technique.

They're a high performance race shop here in Md, says they use the CIMAT 48 VSR to balance, doesnt look like there could be a beter place to have work done https://www.jeimportperformance.com/JE/ ... g-service/

After re-reading my previous comment it sounds way more doom and gloom then intended. What I mean by "I don't know who they are" is I don't have any experience with them and have never even heard of them which doesn't mean squat because I don't spend my days researching shops, it just means I can't make a recommendation 1 way or the other. What I'm trying to do is arm you with the information you need to understand the process and ask the correct questions.

Just for consideration, Z1 sells new center cartridges for the Sport 500 for $500 a piece so if the rebuild costs $350 per turbo I personally would bite the bullet and spend the extra $300 on new cartridges.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... npcvqgv7r1

NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 22, 2020 8:33 am

After re-reading my previous comment it sounds way more doom and gloom then intended. What I mean by "I don't know who they are" is I don't have any experience with them and have never even heard of them which doesn't mean squat because I don't spend my days researching shops, it just means I can't make a recommendation 1 way or the other. What I'm trying to do is arm you with the information you need to understand the process and ask the correct questions.

Just for consideration, Z1 sells new center cartridges for the Sport 500 for $500 a piece so if the rebuild costs $350 per turbo I personally would bite the bullet and spend the extra $300 on new cartridges.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-produc ... npcvqgv7r1

so new cartridges are kinda of just "plug n play" rather for a few hundred extra

Basically. You remove the compressor and turbine housing from the old cartridge and mate them to the new cartridge, clock the housings correctly and reuse all the hardware to secure.

CHRA change is quite basic, only issues I've ran into are seized bolts. Scribe and mark the orientation before disassembly and don't wash out the markings( Ask how I know, brake clean washes out 90% of inks/paint, LOL).
You should also check with your local turbo guy if they can source Sp 500 CHRA; looks like they are Garrett suppliers too. Never know, might be cheaper than Z1.

I just wanted to update you both here and thank you again for consulting with me. I pulled the engine out yesterday and again referring to the oil cooler lines that were cut, Again if you are facing the engine there are two hard pipes sitting next to each other that pop out down to the left, that are visible with the radiator removed and there are soft lines that connect from there to, apparently, the oil filter tree? Well out my engine came without removing any other lines. Was the prior owner NOT running the oil cooler? Is that even a thing? Did the prior owner cut the lines are forget to install new ones? Would oil NOT have been spewing out of the hard pipes? Is that perhaps why my cylinder 5 and 6 are damaged? I dont even know what to think. We are getting hit here on the east coast by storms the nest few days so I wouldnt be out to inspect further. I wanted to get my heads off the block so I could take everything inside but I ran out of time so I had to tarp it on the stand outside and hope for the best. I wish I had a garage right now more than ever.