Oil Cooler For 95 240 SX

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sworxx
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Anyone installed an Oil Cooler on a 95 or above 240SX? Which one fits best and is the most effective at keeping temps under control? Thanks.


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PalmerWMD
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I wouldnt bother unless you are running a turbo and even then you can still maintain proper boundary layer protection by running a 50 weight.

If your KA is non turbo ----> I dont recommend a cooler as this engine has no history of running hot in stock form. Run a good 40 weight oil.If you want a strong oil but not willing to pay for a synthetic the Pennzoil longlife has 15.0 cSt at 100C, HTHS of 4.1 (if memory serves) and has a short spread so very little VII"S used , so its a pretty stable stay-in-grade oil as well.Also Castrol GTX 20w-50 or simliar performance oil.

If turbo--> Run Mobil1 15w-50 and call it a day.

Why do you ask?Are you experiencing cooling or oil problems?

Fred...:)

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sworxx
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I plan to use the car as a track car. I don't think it's ever had issues with hot oil temp, but during a real hot summer day in August it started to climb. Just thought it would be a good preventive measure.

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PalmerWMD
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You can safely autocross a KA w/o an oil cooler.Just go to Mobil1 15-w50 or a smiliar high performance oil.

Also dont forget that an aftermarket oil cooler adds some complexity , extra plumbing and maybe even some restriction as well (!).

Only go with one, if you <know> you need one.

You might wanna get a cheap IR thermometer after a track run, check your oil pans temp.If under 270F you dont need an oil cooler.

Fred...:)

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PalmerWMD
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If you ahd your coolant temp climb I'd address that like this.

1) double chemical flush your radiator , hopefully this will reduce the scaling you likely have, then refill (for summer) with 70% distilled water, 1 bottle redline water wetter, rest Nissan Green antifreeze or smiliar slilicon free coolant ( dexcool works well too, but NEVER mix the 2).

2)If problem persists get new radiator.

Most radiators over 5-8 years old need replacement, especilly if tap water has ever been used, during refills ( thats what nearly all shops use cuz they dont wanna hassle w/ dist ).

Fred...:)

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sworxx
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No issues with radiator cooling. It was suggested to me for the track, to run an oil cooler. Guess nobody thinks it's necessary?

itsRaine
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From what I've heard, there's no need to run an oil cooler. Another thing to consider that I'd like to add to PalmerWD's post is this basic principle: the more parts you add, the more parts that may break. Oil coolers add 2 extra lines, 4 more fittings, I'd assume you'll be using a sandwich adapter on the stock oil filter "thingy" too.

s13sr20chris
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PalmerWMD wrote:I wouldnt bother unless you are running a turbo and even then you can still maintain proper boundary layer protection by running a 50 weight.

If your KA is non turbo ----> I dont recommend a cooler as this engine has no history of running hot in stock form. Run a good 40 weight oil.If you want a strong oil but not willing to pay for a synthetic the Pennzoil longlife has 15.0 cSt at 100C, HTHS of 4.1 (if memory serves) and has a short spread so very little VII"S used , so its a pretty stable stay-in-grade oil as well.Also Castrol GTX 20w-50 or simliar performance oil.

If turbo--> Run Mobil1 15w-50 and call it a day.

Why do you ask?Are you experiencing cooling or oil problems?

Fred...:)


i wish i had some data on hand, but i dont. however i will say that when i did research commonly available oils castrol gtx was the winner in the nonsynthetic category.

edit: also did you know that nissan oil filters are made by wix? they are very high quality filters. other good brands are ac delco, motorcraft, mobil one(the best), and purolator (regular not pure one). bad oil filters are fram, mopar, and the no name brands. i promise all of this comes from experimental data done by a primary source.

s13sr20chris
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good call. i would not trust anyone else with that info either. if i can find it again then i will post it. until then, anyone interested can find the same info if they look hard enough. they could also just cut open the filters and take all of the measurements themselves.

edit:heres onehttp://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw....htmlthe opening statement says its not gospel. im thinking thats a good disclaimer.

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PalmerWMD
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Chris:

Yes GTX is currently one of the best non syns, But Pennzoil does equally well in UOA's.And then there's the all time favorite Valvoline Durablend which is a ACEA A3 oil in 10w-40!!:bowdownAs a blend even.

Fred..:)

s13sr20chris
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didn't someone buy pennzoil? i want to say off the top of my noggin that quaker state bought pennzoil and changed all of their products. that is certainly not gospel but rather i think i heard it somewhere:)im not sure im familiar with the term acea a3is it something i know by another acronym?

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PalmerWMD
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Chris:

ACEA is a european standardization system for oils.

ACEA A3 is the highest.A1,A2, A5 are also more stringets than out API SL specs.

Nearly all oils sold in USA meet API SL nowadays ( even tho many still carry SJ label.

ACEA is a bit more stringent in the areas of deposit control, volatilty, stability and HT/HS.

With A3 being the toughest, requiring ( among other things) a HT/HS of at least 3.6 at 150 C.

The Porsche oils specs, BMW oil specs and MB specs are built around ACEA A1 and ACEA A3 depending on teh model.

There are also B rating and E ratings for diesle and economy specs.

But its simplest for me to just look at the ACEA A..

Fred...:)

s13sr20chris
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cool, thanks strongbad...... i mean fred:)


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