Oil changes

[robchris]

Hello,I am a new G35 owner and I am debating on doing the oil changes my self. I have had bad experiences with bringing my car to the dealership for that. I was curious on what everyone for oil when they are doing the changes.

[SVTCOBRA]

Congrats on picking a great car! I'm new here, but not new to changing oil. I have an 05 Sedan that I've done two oil changes on. First time I left the dust shield/skid plate on and made a mess. Next time, I took it off and it was much easier and less messy. I run Mobil 1 Synthetic in all of my cars. I get my filters from our local Nissan dealer for $4.75 each.

[RED_DET]

Welcome aboard, Rob.

Can't go wrong with cobra's advice.

[GXXXV X]

+1. Just be sure to replace the crush washer between the oil pan and the oil pan plug every now and then. You can pick them up at Infiniti or Nissan.

[szh]

+1. Just be sure to replace the crush washer between the oil pan and the oil pan plug every now and then. You can pick them up at Infiniti or Nissan.

Hmmm ... I use a new crush washer every time the oil plug is opened to change the oil. It is soft copper (I think?) and designed to deform when used, to ensure a good seal and avoid an oil leak.

It is inexpensive enough (about $1 or so) that the cost should not be an issue!

Z

[joe603]

For me, I'm partial to Royal Purple oil and NAPA gold filters. They've always been good to my engines.

[Road Ruler]

I have always changes my own oil too. Also use Nissan filters.

Before using Synthetic oils I used to change the dino oil every 5,000KLM's. The Infinity mechanic suggested changing the synthetic oils at 7,500klm's. The Castrol Syntec has now been in for 7,000 klm's and it dosen't look that bad on the dip stick. It definately doen't get black and dirty like the dino oil.

Also noticed my Nissan vehicles run better when starting up in the cold weather. Synthetic's rock!

[The_Scooch]

I'm new here too but have owned, built, etc many performance cars and bikes. I do everything myself but oil changing is a messy, pain in the *** job so I worked out a nice deal with my local quick lube shop. I bring my own filter (Nissan), buy their oil (Mobil 1) and get under the car with the kid who does the change. I supervise and get to inspect other things as well. A tip for the kid keeps me in good graces with the shop and they actually argue over who gets to do my car.

They have the underground work area and associated benefits. This makes it fast, clean and I don't have to lie on my back, jack-up the car, take the oil somewhere for recycling, etc.

Also, drain out the transmission (if standard) and the rear differential after about 2500 miles. These are breaking in as well and all those gears will leave shavings and residue until they develop a wear pattern. My transmission drained pretty clean but the rear diff oil came out black and full of junk. All have been replaced with synthetic now.

Good luck!

[infinititech1]

i would advise keeping receipts for your oil filters though...cause if you don't have proof of changing your oil on time and somethin goes wrong within the engine or something they may not warranty it...just keep records that you have changed the oil

[szh]

i would advise keeping receipts for your oil filters though...cause if you don't have proof of changing your oil on time and somethin goes wrong within the engine or something they may not warranty it...just keep records that you have changed the oil

Exactly right!!!

Z

[szh]

I'm new here too but have owned, built, etc many performance cars and bikes. I do everything myself but oil changing is a messy, pain in the *** job so I worked out a nice deal with my local quick lube shop. I bring my own filter (Nissan), buy their oil (Mobil 1) and get under the car with the kid who does the change. I supervise and get to inspect other things as well. A tip for the kid keeps me in good graces with the shop and they actually argue over who gets to do my car.

Good approach!

Quote »Also, drain out the transmission (if standard) and the rear differential after about 2500 miles. These are breaking in as well and all those gears will leave shavings and residue until they develop a wear pattern. My transmission drained pretty clean but the rear diff oil came out black and full of junk. All have been replaced with synthetic now.[/quote]Two observations:

1. I definitely also recommend that the rear differential fluid be changed, but it is not absolutely critical to do it by 2500 miles. Anything less than 7500 to 10000 miles should be fine. If you are above that mark, do it soon.

2. If you have an Infiniti G35 with an automatic, be careful about which ATF you put in! All new Infiniti transmissions require the Nissan J-Matic ATF only and it is a bit more expensive. Anything else will damage the transmission and definitely VOID THE WARRANTY. This is important!!

Z

[The_Scooch]

Absolutely. I keep a log book and staple the receipts to the entry page for the maintenance, repair or mod I have done. It's probably a bit anal (my girlfriend thinks so) but I think meticulous maintenance should require meticulous records.

[szh]

Absolutely. I keep a log book and staple the receipts to the entry page for the maintenance, repair or mod I have done. It's probably a bit anal (my girlfriend thinks so) but I think meticulous maintenance should require meticulous records.

Good! The right thing to do.

My wife thinks I am anal about this too, but all our car receipts and purchases (other than gasoline and little stuff - like windshield wiper fluid) are put into a folder labelled appropriately. Separate ones for my car and her car!

Z

[telcoman]

I'm a new 2006 G35 owner 6 speed stick. I've been changing my own oil for over 35 years. Changing your own oil every three to four thousand miles is the best thing you can do if you want to see 200K miles or more on your car. Oil is cheap. I buy whatever is on sale at PEP Boys or whatever. I use 10w-30 as the temp here in NJ does not go below zero very often. Perhaps in the winter I'll use 5W-20 or 5w-30. Here is how I do it on the G35. Instead of attempting to drive it up a pair of ramps that I did on previous vehicles, I use a 3 ton hydraulic jack. Place it correctly underneath (see owners manual) & lift one side & place ramp under front wheel. Then lift the other side & place ramp under that front wheel so now the car is on ramps. Remove the ten or twelve bolts (10mm I think) from splash pan that blocks access to the oil filter. The oil drain plug takes a 14mm socket.At PEP Boys they have a plastic oil container as well as a plastic oil drain funnel that if held properly will make this 20 min job easier. I only use Nissan Oil filters & I keep the receipts. I write down the date, mileage in the warranty booklet as well as the mileage and the amount of oil I've been adding. Mine uses about a 1/2 qt after 2000 miles which the dealer told me is normal. It used a little more when new but I have 7900 miles. It will get its third oil change after 8200 perhaps next week. I changed oil the first time at 1650 miles, the second time at 5200 miles. I have a couple of extra bolts for the pan underneath, (The dealer did not charge me for them when I purchased two oil filters at $5.86 each. Use your Infinity discount card that comes with a new vehicle purchase.

Telcoman

East Brunswick, NJ

[royster69]

Just picked up my 2006 G35 6MT on Saturday. The Service Manager says not to use synthetic until the engine has 30K miles to allow rings, etc. to seat. Most of my miles are highway. Any comments?

[infinititech1]

never really heard that about synthetic

[SVTCOBRA]

I had heard that too, but I only waited 9K miles before I would switch on my prior vehicles. When I discussed this with my Infiniti dealer, he said it was OK to switch over at the first oil change, so I did. I know some cars come now with synthetic. Congrats on your new ride!!

[royster69]

Apparently, synthetic is too good and too slippery! Most engines need a little friction to seat the rings and bearings. Some engines come with special "break-in" oil just to speed up the process, and others are designed such that they don't need the break-in and come with synthetic oil when delivered. The Infiniti service manager said that the G35 engine needs the break-in and regular dinosaur oil should be used for the first 30K miles, then you can switch to synthetic. Some of the posters in this forum complain of poor gas mileage, which may be the result of not letting their engines break-in properly. Or, they may have been too heavy on the pedal and broke in their engines too much!

[The_Scooch]

That's true about synthetic being "too good" but 30K is alot of miles for an engine to have to break in. 3K should be pretty good. All you are wanting to do is set the rings and establish bearing patterns, etc.

I drove mine pretty hard for the first 2500 so I switched then. High combustion pressures, vacuum and pressure changes caused by accel and decel and stresses caused by the same is what sets rings and bearing races.

There are differing opinions on this but most high perfomance engine builders will tell you to break it in the way you plan on driving it. If you "set" the mating surfaces softly, they will float and change when you apply stress, thus never really setting properly.