Oil Changes on New car

[mazz]

Service advisor suggested oil changes at 2000 and 4000 miles on new 2013 m37x, then go to regular routine. I read the manual and did not notice this. I have heard about these kind of things in 1960 but not recently , everybody has their own opinion on breaking in a motor and I am quite comfortable following guidelines in the manual, anybody have new info saying this dumping the oil is a good idea??
Mazz

[EniGmA1987]

If it is brand new and never been driven ever before I would want to do the first oil change between 500-1000 miles. But that is just my personal opinion. For all the computer controlled things, the base engine is still a powerful machine and like all machines will break in over time as it gets used and when new will often rub a bit here and there at the slight imperfections. This metal wear will produce tiny shavings of metal that can damage seals as well as produce more wear than normal on other metal engine parts. I just like to get the majority of this wear to happen in the first few hundred miles and then let it get flushed out with the old oil so the engines doesnt begin to wear in some odd way. Maybe my way of doing it is overkill, maybe not, its just what I do. I also dont like to redline the engine before that first oil change either and try to keep below 5000 RPMs or so while things break in.

[antzrus]

For me, I'd change from 500-1k miles on the first change. I wouldn't start something like M-1 until about 10k most folks I read say; to allow a more thorough break in. Change the oil more often when new/breaking in. After 10k I've been using 10w-30 M-1 @ 12k intervals w/out problem. I bought it at 32k, it now has 75k; runs like a champ!

But then I'm one of the older farts on this list. What do old folks know anyway...

[06M4.5]

I would do the 1st oil change at 1k miles

[szh]

If you do a search for an "overkill" thread of mine, you will see the liquid change schedule I like to do for my new cars.

Z

[szh]

I figured I would post my old stuff here too:

Here is my overkill approach (which has worked on many cars and seems to have made my M45 engine burn way less oil than the current-gen of 340HP engines!)

Some of the items (see below) are definitely overkill, but I want my M45 to last a long, long time and these practices have made my cars go for many miles when I buy them new - the one time I bought a Q45 on lease return, I had problems with a transmission failure at 104k miles, even though I flushed it at 60k and 90k miles! Clearly, the previous owner had not treated his car well.

1. Please use good dino oil (Castrol GTX 5W-30 or Chevron Supreme 5W-30) for the first 7,500 to 10,000 miles to seat the rings properly. Drive the car fairly hard in that period to get everything to sit well. Do not baby the engine - even in the first 1,500 miles!

2. Do many early oil changes (the Mercedes Benz recommendations are an interesting read!) to get rid of the manufacturing "stuff" that get into the oil in the first few miles of driving!

First oil change at 500-1,000 miles (if you can afford it, do one at 100-200 miles too); second oil change at 3,750 and then everything from then on at 3,750 miles maximum. Always change the filter at every oil change.

3. After 7,500 miles, switch to Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40. I get mine from a local Kragen and take it in to the dealer for the change every 7,500 miles. In the intervening 3,750 miles point, I have a local shop change it out for me (easier than reaching under the car myself.)

The M45 and Q45 engines are prone to using oil (some have reported as low as 1 qt every 1000 miles), and good early treatment may avoid this. Mine seems to do 1/3 to 1/4 qt, rarely 1/2 qt every 3750 miles.

4. At 7,500 - 10,000 miles, replace the ATF (definitely use the Nissan Matic J fluid - anything else will void the warranty.) Do the same every 30,000 miles after that - including a flush (uses more fluid and costs more, unfortunately). I also flushed mine at 7,500, but that was definitely way overkill.

5. At 7,500 - 10,000 miles, replace the Cooling Fan fluid. This is unique to the Y34, I think - the 2003 M45 has a fluid that cools the fan ... this is different from the cooling system fluid (the Infiniti service manager did not know about this when I had him do it! ) Use Nissan PSF II or equivalent.

6. At 7,500 to 10,000 miles, replace the differential gear oil. Use Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90 Gear Oil (API GL-5 at least, but Mobil 1 is best.)

8. At 15,000 miles, replace the engine cooling system fluid. Use Nissan Anti-freeze or equivalent.

9. At 22,500 miles, or every two years minimum, flush and replace the brake fluid completely. Use Nissan Brake Fluid or equivalent DOT 3. There are some DOT formulations that should be avoided - I forget the specific ones (please do a search on these!)

I am a firm believer in making sure that good early treatments are done. This makes my cars last a long time without giving me problems ...

Z

[myother45isalesbaer]

WOW! I agree with szh on the oil changes. When I bought my M45 new I dumped the oil at 1,000 miles for the same reasons he has stated. I did that with ever new car I owned. Four things I don't agree with is the transmission oil changes, rear end oil changes, Cooling fan oil changes and coolant changes. I see no reason for those. My 2004 M45 has never had any of that done to it. Maybe I am out to lunch on those fluid changes. So far I have never had an issue relating to the four changes suggested. But, I totally agree with szh on the crank case oil changes. Maybe my OP is wrong. If so I would like to hear why.

[szh]

Like I said, some of my stuff may be overkill, but there are rational reasons - at least rational to me - behind them all!

1. The very early oil changes (in the first 1k miles) are to get rid of the early wear metal from manufacturing burrs inside the engine, for proper wear/seating of piston rings, etc. With many engines, this is probably not strictly necessary, but if Mercedes can recommend doing it for their cars, then I am going to do it on my non-Mercedes cars.

2. Early transmission fluid change (at < 10k miles) is probably not needed either. However, my philosophy is again that moving, and sliding, parts inside cars can have more wear during the first 5k to 15k miles than in later years, and thus need to receive early changes to remove whatever may have been worn down a bit inside the transmission.

3. Same with differential oil, power steering and fan fluid changes (at < 10k miles). Again, probably not needed, but done for same reasons as above.

With regard to regular changes, I follow reasonable intervals - starting with the manufacturer's guidelines, but shortening the interval where it makes sense to me.

With brake fluid, for example, remember that brake fluid can absorb moisture over time and should be changed every 2 years (or so) in general. Yet, the Owner's Manual does not mention anything about this - probably under the assumption that car owners (or the dealer) will know about it.

Z

[myother45isalesbaer]

I have to agree with Szh. Overkill is better than not doing any maintence and having a major problem to fix that will cost mucho bucks. He's even got me thinking I should do some of what he suggests. But at 35K on my 2004 M45 with no issues, when should I do what he has posted? The transmission change I agree with. I agree with the brake fluid change. I am still on the fence about the differential oil change and the power steering fluid changes. I have seen cars run hundreds of K miles and never had any of those done. The weirdo fan fluid I need to do some more research on.

[Double E]

The diff and the trans are 2 places that I don't want problems. Especially as hard as I am on them and considering the cost to repair a failure from old/worn fluid.

Yes to brake fluid changes at 2 years also or if it turns dark.

Coolant is about every 2 years as well. I just check the fan & PS fluid. never change them but probably should once I reach 100K.

[myother45isalesbaer]

Double E,

Question. If the coolant still checks out good to below the freeze point in your area why change it?