Oil Change

[300freekzx]

I just bought my M35 two weeks ago. I know the car will need an oil change soon. I want to know what to do so I do not void my warrenty. I also want to know what is the best weight oil to use? Should I do it (which I can) or let a oil shop do it so it will not be any problems. I am sure the warrenty does not cover the oil change.

Thanks.

[marlin29311]

Umm, change the oil? If you change the oil yourself, just save the reciepts from the oil and filter and just mark the manual what your mileage was when you did it. If you take it to a shop/dealer, save the receipt and mark the manual.

Use whatever oil weight the manual recommends.

[M4T5]

Umm, change the oil? If you change the oil yourself, just save the reciepts from the oil and filter and just mark the manual what your mileage was when you did it. If you take it to a shop/dealer, save the receipt and mark the manual.

Use whatever oil weight the manual recommends.

It was a legitimate question Marlin. I can see why he would ask this question. Would you bring your Lamborghini to Jiffy Lube for its oil change.... I highly doubt it. You will be bringing it back to the dealer more than likely. Not that most of us would ever get to own one, but it serves the point, for with holding and preserving the warranty of your car. I prefer to do it myself. I too would have concerns. The dealers will always try and find ways around a warranty repair if they get the window to do so.I will only have Infiniti do the 30K mi service to my M45 when the time comes.

Maybe this would have been a better question here, Is full synthetic oil recommended for our engines? Can we use it without concerns?By the way, the recommended oil viscosity would be 5w-30.

J

[szh]

Some answers (which are also available with a Search):

1. Definitely avoid the quickie oil-change places. They have been known to do Bad Things™, like leave off the heat-shield, not put the crush-washer in, drop and lose screws for the heat-shield (so end up leaving them out, or, worse, use sheet metal screws), etc.

2. If you do not want to do it yourself, buy the oil from an auto parts store, the filter and crush-washer from Infiniti (or in bulk from http://www.everythinginfiniti.com) and find a good local place to get the oil changed. I use Precision Tune and Goodyear in San Jose (they allow me to watch and supervise the process), and charge me about $15 to $20 for the labor and used oil disposal. Watch the work and make sure that they use the crush-washer properly and screw the heat-shield back in properly.

3. You can use any good dino oil as long as you change the oil and filter often (at least every 3750 miles or less). Good dino oils are Castrol GTX and Chevron Supreme. However, any good dino oil will do. If you do the oil and filter change "oftener" than 3000 miles, then, as far as I am concerned, almost any dino oil is fine to use - get something inexpensive or in bulk!

4. The stock oil weight is 5W-30 for US climates. However, you can use 10W-30 or 10W-40 in hot climates and can also use 0W-30 or 0W-40 in cold climates (some oils are in that range).

5. Yes, you can use synthetic, but wait till after the 10k total miles mark. I personally use, like and recommend Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40. Not as easy to find, but one of the better full synthetics around.

6. Save the oil change purchase and labor change receipts to prove that you are maintaining your engine properly - in case an issue ever arises.

7. Remember to definitely change the filter at the same interval as the oil. The newer Nissan and Infiniti filters are pretty small, compared to their older (now-discontinued) model for the 1990-1996 Q45, and I am concerned (without formal proof) that this smaller filter could be a problem if not changed often.

Z

[M4T5]

Some answers (which are also available with a Search):

1. Definitely avoid the quickie oil-change places. They have been known to do Bad Things™, like leave off the heat-shield, not put the crush-washer in, drop and lose screws for the heat-shield (so end up leaving them out, or, worse, use sheet metal screws), etc.

2. If you do not want to do it yourself, buy the oil from an auto parts store, the filter and crush-washer from Infiniti (or in bulk from http://www.everythinginfiniti.com) and find a good local place to get the oil changed. I use Precision Tune and Goodyear in San Jose (they allow me to watch and supervise the process), and charge me about $15 to $20 for the labor and used oil disposal. Watch the work and make sure that they use the crush-washer properly and screw the heat-shield back in properly.

3. You can use any good dino oil as long as you change the oil and filter often (at least every 3750 miles or less). Good dino oils are Castrol GTX and Chevron Supreme. However, any good dino oil will do. If you do the oil and filter change "oftener" than 3000 miles, then, as far as I am concerned, almost any dino oil is fine to use - get something inexpensive or in bulk!

4. The stock oil weight is 5W-30 for US climates. However, you can use 10W-30 or 10W-40 in hot climates and can also use 0W-30 or 0W-40 in cold climates (some oils are in that range).

5. Yes, you can use synthetic, but wait till after the 10k total miles mark. I personally use, like and recommend Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40. Not as easy to find, but one of the better full synthetics around.

6. Save the oil change purchase and labor change receipts to prove that you are maintaining your engine properly - in case an issue ever arises.

7. Remember to definitely change the filter at the same interval as the oil. The newer Nissan and Infiniti filters are pretty small, compared to their older (now-discontinued) model for the 1990-1996 Q45, and I am concerned (without formal proof) that this smaller filter could be a problem if not changed often.

Z

At a 3,750 mi oil change interval, the oil filter will fair fine. Smaller filter doesn't necessarily mean less filtering or that it will clog sooner. I'm sure there was a legitimate reason for doing this. I too noticed this on the LS2 and LS3 engines in GM vehicles. They went to a smaller filter. Which was not necessary for any clearancing issues. I think it may create more oil pressure in the oiling system. Just my thought.BTW, I only use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic too! I will continue that tradition with my 2007 M45.

J

[Bob24]

What intervals are you guys using with full synthetic? For me, one of the biggest advantages of the full synthetic was that I could get by on two oil changes a year (1 every 6-7k).

I live in a state that only has two Infiiniti dealers and neither are really that close to my house. However, I will probably still make the trip so I know I am getting the job done right.

I have never heard of a crusher washer. I will have to look that one up.

[szh]

What intervals are you guys using with full synthetic? For me, one of the biggest advantages of the full synthetic was that I could get by on two oil changes a year (1 every 6-7k).

Well, I baby my engine. So, even with synthetic, I stick to a 3750 mile oil and filter change interval. In my opinion, doing it sooner is better than not - regardless of the type of oil. If the oil cost is an issue, stick to good dino oil, but do it sooner!

I have never heard of a crusher washer. I will have to look that one up.

The "crush washer" (actual name is something different, I think) is a thin copper washer that is used between the oil drain bolt and the engine block. As you tighten the bolt after an oil drain to the required torque, the copper literally "crushes" flatter and seals the opening completely. Never, ever re-use these - after you drain the oil and then before refilling, replace with a fresh washer each and every time.

Z

[szh]

I live in a state that only has two Infiiniti dealers and neither are really that close to my house. However, I will probably still make the trip so I know I am getting the job done right.

An oil change is something that you do not need to go to a dealer for ... as long as you are careful to supervise the work wherever you do take it too! Just avoid the quickie oil change places because they usually give you crap about watching (plus it tough to watch when it is not raised up) and their employees are often people who are not experienced enough - they don't stick around long enough to get the experience. Find a good local shop that is willing to let you watch and supervise and you will be fine.

Frankly, I would gladly do it myself, but, for me, the low cost of the labor (around $15 to $18) and disposal of the used oil, etc., makes it worth it.

Z

[M4T5]

Well, I baby my engine. So, even with synthetic, I stick to a 3750 mile oil and filter change interval. In my opinion, doing it sooner is better than not - regardless of the type of oil. If the oil cost is an issue, stick to good dino oil, but do it sooner!

The "crush washer" (actual name is something different, I think) is a thin copper washer that is used between the oil drain bolt and the engine block. As you tighten the bolt after an oil drain to the required torque, the copper literally "crushes" flatter and seals the opening completely. Never, ever re-use these - after you drain the oil and then before refilling, replace with a fresh washer each and every time.

Z

I would just round off my mileage to 4,000mi when using full synthetic oil. Mine will be Mobil 1 of course. Also, where is a logically easy place to purchase the crush washer?? If I can avoid the dealer's prices I will. Can it be picked up at a local auto parts store?

[Andrew224]

I get my crush washers from Infiniti for about $0.65 each. You can go to just about any auto parts store and they should have them. Have them look up what size you need. I want to say it's a 14 but I'm not sure. Infiniti crush washers are brass but you could also use a nylon one (which are like 4 for $2.00).

Andrew

[szh]

Infiniti crush washers are brass

I am pretty sure they are copper. Need to be soft and ductile.

but you could also use a nylon one (which are like 4 for $2.00).

Hmmm ... I would not trust nylon. Need a good seal to ensure that there is no oil leak near the bolt. The copper ones from Nissan/Infiniti are cheap enough to not be an issue ...

Z

[maxnix]

What intervals are you guys using with full synthetic? For me, one of the biggest advantages of the full synthetic was that I could get by on two oil changes a year (1 every 6-7k).

My question for you is how does your engine know what kind of oil is in its crankcase? If it doesn't, how then does it limit its blow-by contamination and crankcase condensation which are the main degraders of oil life, besides heat itself?

[Andrew224]

You're right, copper, I don't know what I was thinking.

Andrew

[M4T5]

My question for you is how does your engine know what kind of oil is in its crankcase? If it doesn't, how then does it limit its blow-by contamination and crankcase condensation which are the main degraders of oil life, besides heat itself?

Huh??? No engine will particularly "know" what oil is in it. If your worried about the oil that goes in your engine, then use any quality well known branded Full Synthetic Oil on the market that has the API approval seal on the bottle. Some highly recommended oils:-Mobil 1-Castrol Syntec-Valvoline Synpower-AmsoilYou can use 5w-30 for all around weather or 0w-40 for extreme cold climates.

J

[M4T5]

I get my crush washers from Infiniti for about $0.65 each. You can go to just about any auto parts store and they should have them. Have them look up what size you need. I want to say it's a 14 but I'm not sure. Infiniti crush washers are brass but you could also use a nylon one (which are like 4 for $2.00).

Andrew

I would have thought they would have been more expensive. In that case, I have no problem buying them from Infiniti.Do you guys recommend or use a specific oil filter?I usually use Mobil 1, Wix, or K&N oil filters. NEVER a FRAM! Fram has been in the business for the longest of times, but now produces the worst oil filter of all. This was read about in a oil filter review I read. FYI: Penzoil oil filters are just Fram filters painted yellow.

J

[maxnix]

Huh??? No engine will particularly "know" what oil is in it.

5W-30 for all around weather or 0w-40 for extreme cold climates.

Precisely my point!

I find the VH prefers 10W-30 or 0W-40 in moderate weather to 5W-30, at least in M1.

[M4T5]

Precisely my point!

I find the VH prefers 10W-30 or 0W-40 in moderate weather to 5W-30, at least in M1.

The 0w, 5w, or 10w is the initial viscosity of the oil prior to being heated up to normal operating temperatures. That is the initial weight (or its ability to flow) of the oil basically. The lower the initial weight, the easier it is to flow in cold conditions. That's why I'm a bit baffled at recommending a 10w oil for these engines. If the tolerances are minimal in these engines, I would use either 0w or 5w oils only. Even the final warm up viscosity of 40 baffles me a bit. That seems thick for a close tolerance engine. Though I guess since Infiniti recommends it, it must be fine to use. I'll just stick with the tried and true 5w-30! I live in the south anyways, so it rarely stays cold for long, more less do our temps rarely drop below 0*C. It only only happened one day this year so far. To make it even more rare of an occasion, it snowed down here that same day!!

J

[szh]

I would just round off my mileage to 4,000mi

Yes, you can do that. My choice of 3750 miles as a maximum is simply because it is "half-way" between to the 7500 mile mark ... where I take it in to the dealer for other work, including an oil change (I provide them Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic oil and get a small break on their charges, and they their filter and labor).

Also, where is a logically easy place to purchase the crush washer?? If I can avoid the dealer's prices I will. Can it be picked up at a local auto parts store?

As mentioned by others, you can use the dealer to buy this crush washer - they are inexpensive enough. However, you can also buy filters and washers in larger quantities (I get them six at a time - to distribute the cost of the mailing over a larger quantity) from http://www.everythinginfiniti.com ... that is an Infiniti dealer that treats us NICO folks right!

Z

[szh]

That's why I'm a bit baffled at recommending a 10w oil for these engines.

As a generalization: if you live in Phoenix for example, using a 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil is better than a 5W-30 or 5W-40. Because, these oils have less oil additives to get the wider range, and can thus use more of other additives that are beneficial to the engine - detergents for example.

I'll just stick with the tried and true 5w-30! I live in the south anyways, so it rarely stays cold for long, more less do our temps rarely drop below 0*C. It only only happened one day this year so far. To make it even more rare of an occasion, it snowed down here that same day!!

Sticking with 5W-30 in your climate is a perfectly fine thing to do! If you were using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic, I would recommend 0W-40 instead, as it has been proven to be a very good synthetic oil.

But, I'll repeat myself: if you do the oil and filter change often enough (like an OCI of 3750 miles or less), then almost any good oil (dino or synthetic) in a 5W-30 range will be perfectly okay. If you do it sooner than 3k miles, then almost any 5W-30 oil (even the el-cheapo brands) will be fine.

As maxnix puts it: "good oil is new oil" - I know I am not quoting him exactly, but this is close enough!

Z

[M4T5]

As a generalization: if you live in Phoenix for example, using a 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil is better than a 5W-30 or 5W-40. Because, these oils have less oil additives to get the wider range, and can thus use more of other additives that are beneficial to the engine - detergents for example.

Sticking with 5W-30 in your climate is a perfectly fine thing to do! If you were using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic, I would recommend 0W-40 instead, as it has been proven to be a very good synthetic oil.

But, I'll repeat myself: if you do the oil and filter change often enough (like an OCI of 3750 miles or less), then almost any good oil (dino or synthetic) in a 5W-30 range will be perfectly okay. If you do it sooner than 3k miles, then almost any 5W-30 oil (even the el-cheapo brands) will be fine.

As maxnix puts it: "good oil is new oil" - I know I am not quoting him exactly, but this is close enough!

Z

Could you explain why Mobil 1 full synthetic 0w-40 would be better than Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30?I'm just not familiar with 0w oil viscosities down here in the south.

J

[300freekzx]

Thank you for the information.

[humblepie]

Can anyone tell me where to find the crush washer from everything infinti? I can find the oil filter, but can't seem to find the washers...

Thanks.

Ah never mind, it's the drain plug gasket haha.

[tytamto]

It seems that a few of you guys are pretty adamant about doing oil changes around 3750 mile mark, but I am wondering if that is based on your personal preferences (or biases ;-) or have you had used oil analysis done (Blackstone or Dyson)???

If so, can you post your results? I am mainly interested in the VK45DE results, since there are plenty of published reports on the VQ35DE...

I will be doing my first oil change since I bought the car (32k miles) and will send a sample out for testing to Blackstone. Will post my results, if there is interest.

[M4T5]

Could you explain why Mobil 1 full synthetic 0w-40 would be better than Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30?I'm just not familiar with 0w oil viscosities down here in the south.

J

Anyone care to answer this question? This would be generally directed for us Southern dwellers.Basically which grade of the above listed would be a better choice for the M45?

J

[NightRiderQ45]

Anyone care to answer this question? This would be generally directed for us Southern dwellers.Basically which grade of the above listed would be a better choice for the M45?

J

The OW-40 would be a better choice betweent the two because the base stock oils used are "true" synthetic. M1 5W-30 has many negative wear reviews especially on bob is the oil guy website.