oil catch can to intake question

[KYZAAC]

i've been doing my 240 over for a while now, just picking at it here and there, im getting my license back soon so its time to get all the little things i've been putting off.

i want to install an aftermarket catch can, right now i just have a hose going from the back of the tee to the block with no catch can at all, and a mini filter on the front of the tee. i would like to hook it up to the intake but i have the aluminum isis intake pipe with no nipple to connect the hose. the welding shop in my area charged me $80 to weld a bov flange to the hotpipe and it leaks. which kinda pisses me off because im a welder but dont have the equip to tig alum.

i've searched and there seems to be a million way ppl hook these up. from what i understand it has to be hooked up to the intake for a vacuum to pull through the can. but most sr's i see either have a filter on the front of the tee or replace the tee with an L shaped fitting. is there another correct way to hook the can up besides going to the intake? or should i give in and weld a nipple on?

[Razi]

Best way is to have your intake hooked up to it to help draw out the crank pressure.
Do you still have the OEM catch can/oil seperator?

Have it hooked up from the block to the OEM catch can, then regular hose from tee to tee, and a catch can between the valve cover and the intake.

[OM3GA]

The OEM catch can is more important than some people think, it is a nice baffled can which allows oil to drain back into the block if it gets into the T fitting.

If you are hooking up an aftermarket catch can, this should be between the hose coming from the front of the T going to the Intake. Make sure to actually run a line to the intake and not just put a breather. I researched this forever, i used to have a breather on my KA valve cover but it truly does dirty your oil quicker because the vacuum helps pull out gasses that will contaminate the oil quicker. I won't get into it now because i am falling asleep on my keyboard but i will check back in to see what you decide.

[KYZAAC]

thanks for the replys. i will get a port welded onto the intake piping. i seen so many other ways i got confused on which was "right". is there any where specific spot thats preferable? closer to the turbo or closer to the filter? or does it even matter?

is the most effective way to keep the OEM Catch Can and install the aftermarket can as a secondary unit? i thought the aftermarket cans were for the aftermarket turbo manifolds. i have a megan racing manifold installed and i dont think it can be mounted in the stock location. would using the aftermaket can only be ok?

this may be off topic (im hoping not) but might as well ask. my car smokes, some days it will and some days not a drop. its white smoke, its not the head gasket, i figured it might be turbo seals, i pulled off the intake to check for oil but there was none, this is only at idle since the car is not road legal, i thought it might just need to go for a run to get the cobb webbs outs. then a few months later when i pulled the downpipe, there was alot of carbon on the outside of the elbow, i pulled the intake pipe off again and this time there was a little puddle of oil sitting in there. i checked shaft play when te turbo was off and it was good.

do you think not having a catch can setup would cause the smoke?

[Jmoore124]

I think the closer to the turbo the bung is the more vacuum you will have on the valve cover and breather off the block.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

The above setup is the best route for the majority of turbo SRs. You want the tube from the block (on the exhaust side near the back) to the factory air\oil separator to the "T" on the valve cover. Then from the "T" to a catch can, followed by a hose to a nipple in the intake between the MAF sensor and the turbo inlet. All pressure that is in the motor (including crankcase pressure) is metered air from the MAF. Putting a breather filter will cause that air to escape and thus the ecu will think you have more air than you do. This will cause you to run rich and have less power/fuel economy. You want to route back behind the MAF so this air doesn't get metered again AND it wont foul up the sensor element. The factory air/oil separator helps keep oil out of the air going to your intake and the catch can will further help this out. This will help keep your intercooler dry, which is a good thing, because being coated in oil will cause it to lose thermal efficiency (= less HP). Make sure your PCV valve is in good condition and hooked up as well. A proper PCV system is very important for motor longevity and performance.

[KYZAAC]

im going to do some work on days off, im away working right now. Do you think not having a catch can installed would cause white smoke? or would that be the turbo seals>? i know its not the head gasket.