Oil and Smoke

[Neejay]

EDIT: SCROLL FURTHER DOWN FOR AN UPDATE.





Any ideas? I was hoping that maybe it was just the turbo. It seems to be coming out from the exhaust side of the turbo and running down the exhaust manifold. Anything else semi-major and I'll be selling it. I don't have a garage or the money to get it fixed.

Smells like gas too, but all 6 of the injectors were seized and un-seized, so maybe one of them is stuck open?

Modified by Neejay at 11:18 AM 12/15/2008
Modified by Neejay at 11:18 AM 12/15/2008

[Largekid]

looks to me like your turbo went bye bye...but i'm not 100% sure on that

[s14_sport]

yeah from the way that looks im willing to bet the turbo is gone...

[fast_s14]

my buddies car did the same thing awhile back. He replaced the turbo and still had bad smoke like yours.. Did compression chek and found number 6 with no compression. tore it apart and found the piston ring lands were melted. So check your compression before purchasing a new turbo.

[Neejay]

my buddies car did the same thing awhile back. He replaced the turbo and still had bad smoke like yours.. Did compression chek and found number 6 with no compression. tore it apart and found the piston ring lands were melted. So check your compression before purchasing a new turbo.

Well, a compression test was done 2 weeks ago: 149x5, and 140x1. They just called about 30 minutes ago and said that a spark plug was wet with gas and that adjacent o-ring was messed up. Replaced, and hardly any smoke anymore and for some reason the oil is just burning off and isn't leaking anymore....

They said that they would test drive it tomorrow and observe it. I'll report back.

[fast_s14]

glad to hear it wasn't like my buddies scenario.

[USMCgetsome]

lucky sob!!!

[SullivanRacing06]

check the charge pipe see if there ne oil in there,

[Neejay]

check the charge pipe see if there ne oil in there,

Is that the cold piping side or the hot piping side?

[Neejay]

The messed up o-ring really was the cause of all the extra smoke. Reporting back to say that it only smokes now when I get on it then come to a complete stop AND while I'm really getting on it. Driving regularly, it doesn't smoke. Still sounds like the turbo? Not a valve guide/stem?

EDIT: It also doesn't leak oil anymore.

[Neejay]

The messed up o-ring really was the cause of all the extra smoke. Reporting back to say that it only smokes now when I get on it then come to a complete stop AND while I'm really getting on it. Driving regularly, it doesn't smoke. Still sounds like the turbo? Not a valve guide/stem?

EDIT: It also doesn't leak oil anymore.

u sure thats oil leaking and not gas? i had a bad injector o-ring on my ka n it was dumping so much fuel it was squirting out between the head n exh. mani.

sounds like u got it fixed tho.

off topic a lil, but is that the 200 dollar syko elbow?

Yeah, when it was my o-ring, it caused a grey smoke. Now it's A LOT less and blue. Last night I found a vacuum leak which was the pcv hose's port on the intake manifold. The guy who did my swap said he meant to tell me that when he started the swap and that I can bring it by there and he'd replace it/fix it.

Basically my pcv valve isn't getting any vacuum. Could this cause smoking due to blowby?

EDIT: And yeah, its the skyo elbow. I bought it used from someone for $100. Fit's like a charm. They had to bang in the Brake Booster just a tad for the o2 sensor though. syko elbow -> 3" sr downpipe -> 3" resonated test pipe -> N-1 Duals. All fit together without any modding/fabricating.

[Neejay]

yeah it will deff smoke if you crankcase is getting pressurized from a faulty pcv

good deal on the elbow. i just used a stock elbow with a r32 greddy dp.

Im hoping that was the source of my smoke. I just took the intake off and there was NO oil or oil residue in the compressor wheels, with almost no shaft play in and out and very little side to side. Blades also look good. I temporarily hammered the port back in, and it was snug, then I put some silicone around it. I just need it to hold so I can drive it to the shop and have them weld or epoxy the port permanently.

Will report back.

[Neejay]

Alright, did a compression test.

1 = 1612 = 1653 = 1614 = 155 (had to test twice, but I think it's because of the dumping of fuel)5 = 1616 = 161

Few things:

(spark plugs are in order, left to right, #1-6)

I'm thinking the turbo rear seal is going/gone and it's either timing or my injectors are messed up (while the swap was happening, apparently all 6 were seized and unseized via shop that did the swap). So it looks like #2 and #4 are stuck open, but the other 4 makes it seem as if I'm running lean.

Thoughts?
Modified by Neejay at 3:19 PM 12/15/2008

[Darius]

Compression looks very consistent.

I'm putting money on the injectors you pointed out. The other plugs are probably running lean because the ECU is seeing all the excess fuel and trying to lean the mixture out to stoichiometric. But it only has control of 4 of the injectors. It appears the other two are either leaking badly or are stuck open entirely. I would just replace those two and make sure the installation is performed correctly.

[l0nestar]

#2 & 4 plugs -- EEK! Stock turbo?

[Neejay]

#2 & 4 plugs -- EEK! Stock turbo?

Yep, stock turbo.

[Neejay]

#2 injector with small pin-hole leak in the pintle cap (witnessed it leaking when I primed the fuel pump)



#4 Im assuming it's the o-ring, since it just leaks (above the bottom part - it leaks downward)



Also, how the screw do you get the injector out with buying an "injector puller"???

EDIT: I'm going to be sending the injectors off to Witchhunter. I bought 2 SR replacement injectors before I remembered about Witchhunter...bah...

[lazyboi444]

Hey Neejay. To get the injectors out of the rail you need.

Large flat headWD-40hand towel or papet towels

Since you have the the rail out will be easy to get the injectors out. Just have something hold the rail down or you can use your foot but dont apply to much pressure to one area. have the injectors facing to the ground. Take the flat head and use the back of the connector on the injector to pry it out. But put the hand towel or paper towel in between the flathead and connector lip. So you wont take off some plastic while doing this. Just pry on the lip and the injector should pop out. spray some wd-40 on it if it doesnt wanna come out. Let the WD sit there for about ten minutes then twist the injector to break it loose then try again at prying it out. If you need help i'm in Roswell, Ga. Dont mind helping.

[Neejay]

Thanks a lot man. I ended up taking them to Decker and he helped me out. You're the only other person to offer help besides him!

ALL 6 o-rings are shredded. I'm sending them to Witch Hunter friday. I damaged the plastic on one, so I'll replace it with 1 of the 2 SR injectors I just bought.

I know they all work (tested then tested again with reversed polarity). My main concern is the o-rings and pintle caps. I figure a good cleaning and replacing of parts won't hurt at all.

[lazyboi444]

Awww man no problem. I just know how hard it seems, to get them bishez out. I had to take them out of my ka. But yeah plus i'm bored. I didn't know sr injectors would work. Plus wouldn't mind looking at a almost finish RB. Help lift my spirits lol

[Neejay]

It's been running. I drove it home from the shop. lol It's just I wanted to figure out how severe the smoking/hesitation problem was before driving it around and possibly causing more damage. Once I get over this injector hurdle + add a catch can, I'll be good to go. (minus the potential turbo seal being gone too)

[90240sxca18]

ill give you my rb25 turbo if you need it. we could meet at the shop again just gimme a call.

[lazyboi444]

Neejay. What shop did your swap? Also where did you get your turbo outlet pipe from?
Modified by lazyboi444 at 6:31 PM 12/24/2008

[Neejay]

Neejay. What shop did your swap? Also where did you get your turbo outlet pipe from?

Killswitch. Decker is great! (mainly dealt with him during my swap) I had them troubleshoot and figure out that the injectors were the problem. I just couldn't afford to keep it there for anymore troubleshooting. Hence, this thread. lol

I just happened to come across the turbo outlet on a for sale thread, used, for $100. It costs $200 from Syko themselves. I'm using the Ruckus-Racing mount kit + Nismo KA mounts. It sits too high, so they had to raise the back of my hood like some people do for "cooling". I'll be replacing these new-ish Nismo mounts with some other ones that will lower the engine more. Maybe some worn KA mounts + silicone filling (urethane is too hard)...eventually. **** is hard to do without a garage during winter. lol

[lazyboi444]

I guess. Why didn't you go with using the R33 crossmember? With new Nismo mounts? Glad i have a garage lol.

[Neejay]

I guess. Why didn't you go with using the R33 crossmember? With new Nismo mounts? Glad i have a garage lol.

I did, originally, when I was going to be the one doing the swap. lol My Nismo mounts have less than 1k miles on them. I bought em new and used them on my KA. I still have the R33 crossmember.

[lazyboi444]

You get your problem fixed yet? Also how much the you get your RB25 for? And where from?