oiiii. # 4 bearing

[f s t caz]

and the crankshaft journal has a line in it

is the crankshaft going to have to be machined? Also, 2 and 3 there was some front to back movement in the rods, but none on 1 and 4. is that normal?

I was kinda figuring that #3 would be the bad set of bearings because on a compression test prior to pulling the motor, i got 120 on #3 and 160-170 on the other 3. What am i looking at replacing? rings, connecting rod bearings, main bearings. Is there anything else that should be done right now. I don't really have the money for a build rightnow, just a rebuild, but I want to make sure its done correct.

but on a different note, twice turbosjust incase you ever wondered the size difference between a GTiR T28 and a stock CA T25

[r34 gtr]

ow. number 4 hurts... looks like my number 3. mine wasnt quite that bad but it did have some deep grooves in it. im not sure about the crank being machined but i think you nailed the replacement parts..

- tim

[boost_boy]

Inspect your mains and make sure they are not acting up. If they are good, make sure that the #4 journal has a lip that can catch your finger nail. The lip I'm referring to is the surface in which the bearing sits on. If both sides of the journal have lips (In which they appear to), take a piece of emory cloth and try and clean up the journal's roughness. It takes time, but if you don't want to ruin the new bearing, you're going to have to do this. Just recently did it to a friend's CA and his work just fine. If you don't have the cash for a light rebuild, this should hold you over for a good while. Seems like something restricted oil flow from the journal and caused this problem.

Dee

[pulsar gtr]

Well, if you want to make life easier on yourself at this time and later on, Since the engine is already out and taken apart, send the crack to get machined and they will clean the oil path journals in side the crank as well. This way you shouldn't have any worries later on down the road. God forbids and you put it together and few months later the bearing went again, you will end up spending more money rebuilding and you might have a terribly defective crank then and can't be fix.

My opinion, machine the crank now and save yourself a future headache, I know it will cost you a bit more money but you'd better send a bit more money now than a lot more later on.

Good luck,

PULSAR GTR

[r34 gtr]

my #3 main bearing has ruts in it so big you could get a hummer stuck in them. nothing wrong with the crank though. my rod bearings do all have big discolored worn spots at or near the top of the half that goes on the top of the crank... i think its a good thing i took it apart when i did.

- tim

[f s t caz]

here's what the bottom mains look likeno noticeable wear on the crankshaft

[boost_boy]

Clean up the journal, change the bearings and enjoy your engine.

Dee

[drumma022]

I would at least check the tolerances of the crank before re-assembly. Like Dee said before

... "Seems like something restricted oil flow from the journal and caused this problem." ...

Something caused the problem and I would find out why before being quick to reassemble.

[float_6969]

I would at least check the tolerances of the crank before re-assembly. Like Dee said before

... "Seems like something restricted oil flow from the journal and caused this problem." ...

Something caused the problem and I would find out why before being quick to reassemble.

:withstup My mains looked fine, but my rod bearing were a little worn, but not to nearly that extent and my crank looks perfect. I'd say you had some sort of oiling problem near the back of the motor that needs resovled. I don't like the look of the rear main either to be honest. I'd definatly replace the oil pump and get the crank reground on that journal, and get the oil paths cleaned up. Slap it all back together and start beating on it!