OH WOW!!! Techies chime in!!! CODES CODES CODES!

[USAF_G35_Guy]

To start off, I travel quite a bit for work and I'm hoping that is just bad gas or sensor problem.

The Issue: Right now my G is knocking/ticking/clicking whatever you want to call it from the upper engine area. I didn't have a scope, so I used the feel w/ the hand then the old school screwdriver to the ear trick to somewhat pinpoint the sound. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the drivers side rear valves and cam area.The car is running fine minus the noise (not driving, it's sitting until I can fix). There are no metal shavings that I can see in the oil so I'm hoping no horrible damage has been done.

Here are the codes it's throwing:

P0011 - Intake Camshaft Position timing, over advanced bank 1 "Intake Valve Timing Control"

P0102 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input " MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor"

P0021 - Intake Camshaft Position timing, over advanced bank 2 "Intake Valve Timing Control"

P1614 - NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System) Malfunction. "I have aftermarket alarm, so possible interference there...dunno"

P0113 - Intake Air Temp Circuit High Temp "IAT Sensor"

I'd take it to a mechanic, but there aren't any Infiniti/Nissan specialists in my town. I'd have to trailer it to Dallas, TX to find anyone decent I think. (most of work done on my car was done professionally in Cali, so to far from my old shop now)

I'd take it to Local Nissan or Infiniti dealership but I'm pretty sure they won't touch it since it's not stock. May have to try and hit them up though.

Anyways, Lets see what the pro's (and random intelligent inputs/opinions) have to say! I'm hoping that I've got one problem that's causing multiple problems like a snowball effect and throwing multiple codes.

[pfarmer]

To start off, I travel quite a bit for work and I'm hoping that is just bad gas or sensor problem.

The Issue: Right now my G is knocking/ticking/clicking whatever you want to call it from the upper engine area. I didn't have a scope, so I used the feel w/ the hand then the old school screwdriver to the ear trick to somewhat pinpoint the sound. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the drivers side rear valves and cam area.The car is running fine minus the noise (not driving, it's sitting until I can fix). There are no metal shavings that I can see in the oil so I'm hoping no horrible damage has been done.

Here are the codes it's throwing:

P1614 - NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System) Malfunction. "I have aftermarket alarm, so possible interference there...dunno"

Does the alarm system have a remote start feature?

Perry

[USAF_G35_Guy]

yes, with clutch override, so can remote start with a MT

[joe603]

You do have aftermarket Cams...I wonder if they are causing problems. I think that your knock sensor is working overtime.

Hang tight, we have a few good techs here!

[tollboothwilley]

With the "Intake air temp circuit" throwing because of high intake temps, its possible that your timing with the cams is TOO HIGH. That will cause knock. What intake are you running??

[Poyzinous]

when you replaced your cams, did you also replace your valve springs and lifters?After doing cams, the ECM should have been reprogrammed for the added lift/duration, etc. You may need to replace your sensors, part numbers 23731-6J90B and 23731-AL61AYou may even need new solenoids if damaged, part numbers 23796- EA20A and 23796-EG20A.You'll want to inspect the signal plate on the intake camshaft to make sure its there and clean.The noise, coupled with the codes makes me wonder if it ran without oil or if no oil made it to the solenoids/sensors to cause the codes to appear. It seems like a funky issue.

[USAF_G35_Guy]

With the "Intake air temp circuit" throwing because of high intake temps, its possible that your timing with the cams is TOO HIGH. That will cause knock. What intake are you running??

It's a AEM WAI, here's quick pic..it's got a K&N cone on it at the moment.

as far as the CAMS go, they've been installed and haven't given me any issues for 3+ years now. but I'm not counting anything out.

when you replaced your cams, did you also replace your valve springs and lifters?After doing cams, the ECM should have been reprogrammed for the added lift/duration, etc. You may need to replace your sensors, part numbers 23731-6J90B and 23731-AL61AYou may even need new solenoids if damaged, part numbers 23796- EA20A and 23796-EG20A.You'll want to inspect the signal plate on the intake camshaft to make sure its there and clean.The noise, coupled with the codes makes me wonder if it ran without oil or if no oil made it to the solenoids/sensors to cause the codes to appear. It seems like a funky issue.

sensors...humm, definitely a potential issue. when the cams were installed, I'm 99% sure we stayed with the stock springs and valves. The one I installed was able to use the stock springs and valves, but there were some I could of gone with that needed JWT springs and head clearancing done.

as far as tuning, after the parts were installed we went with a Unichip piggyback with the closest map/version to go with my mods and tuned it accordingly.

Just to clear up my personal knowledge level: when I say we, it's me paying and the shop doing most/all of the work LOL. I can do basic stuff and maintenance, and plug in an ODBII scanner to read some codes,but when it gets to the technical level I can get lost real quick!

Thanks for any and all info! Basically I'm trying to get an idea of what I need to do, and when I do find a shop to take it to (I know I'll have to, to get it done right) I'll have an idea what to expect and also be able to tell them what codes it's throwing.

There is one thing though that I "think" confirms that I'm getting predetonation. I took the upper and lower plenum off to inspect the valves the best I could without having to take the intake manifold, fuel rails and all that crap off...But as I looked down the intake manifolds ports I could see with a limited view that everything looked good. But the valves on the drivers rear side had a little bit of exhaust smoke lingering/hovering in there. Which means predetonation? I don't know...but either way the timing is off...the knock sensor is bad...or it's just running to hot? Could it be just a bad spark plug or coil pack too?

Sorry...still going...but you mentioned that it sounds like it was low on oil or not getting oil. That could also be an issue. I run Mobil 1, but I was roughly a quart low when all this first happened.

Thanks all! something to think about. I'll continue my search for a Nissan/Infiniti mechanic who's worth a damn around here! Maybe I should just get a ford or chevy.....I know lots of rednecks who can work on those!

[pfarmer]

yes, with clutch override, so can remote start with a MT

Not sure on your 'G' based on the age without going back and look at the FSMs. In any case on newer cars there have been several issues with remote starts which bypass the built in logic. Some of the problems have involved BCMs because of how various alarm systems interface with them. Maybe not involved but with the alarm code in the mix I would not rule it out.

This is part of a post which states that a dealer associates this code with the remote starter causing a BCM issue with a further warning that it may propagate with the BCM tossing lots of codes:

'My 08 Infinity G35X is throwing code C1734'

Perry


Modified by pfarmer at 2:52 AM 8/22/2009

[Sentientbydesign]

That's an AEM Dry-flow. Nothing as horrid as a K&N

GL with the troubleshooting. I'm lost with your situation. MAF, Throttle body, and ECU are the 3 areas that come to mind, but that's from my limited scope.

[tollboothwilley]

I wouldn't be surprised if your Intake Air Temp sensor is bad, maybe MAF as well, and the computer doesn't know whether to advance or retard timing. It would cause rough driveability and codes.

[USAF_G35_Guy]

I wouldn't be surprised if your Intake Air Temp sensor is bad, maybe MAF as well, and the computer doesn't know whether to advance or retard timing. It would cause rough driveability and codes.

That's what I'm hoping for! something easily accessible, not internal = high labor costs. I'm taking it in tomorrow (got spare vehicle, so haven't been in huge hurry). Hopefully they'll have good news! And I don't reamed! Wish me luck all! And have a good weekend!

[USAF_G35_Guy]

BTW.....engine is DONE!

looking for new motor now....inputs?started this thread to talk about after market blocks etc...http://forums.g35club.org/zero...49502

Also, I may have some stock heads with JWT S1 cams in em for sale pretty soon if anyone is interested 63k on heads and 15k or so on cams.

[SteveTheTech]

All of these issues (especially NATS) may indicate a battery issue. Have you have the ECM disconnected with the key on?

The P0021 and 11 may be set if the oil level is low. Or you are not getting any oil flow to that hydraulic intake solenoids. Valve timing control is not working correctly.

If the MAF was disconnected and the key was turned on with it opened the IAT and MAF. If this happened and it was in the past you can wipe the code, perform the closed throttle relearn procedure, and manual Idle volume learning. However now that I think about it that might not work with your piggy back ecu.

[tollboothwilley]

Might be interested in the S1 cams.

What was the problem with the engine?

[USAF_G35_Guy]

Might be interested in the S1 cams.

What was the problem with the engine?

rod bearing gone, not gonna rebuild. looking for built short or long block right now but will probably just end up going with used VQ35DE as the car is primarily a dailydriver.

it'll be just a little while on the cams. they are still in the shot motor right now so as soon as I get a chance to pull em I'll let ya know.

[tollboothwilley]

Why not get another engine and build it yourself???

[USAF_G35_Guy]

like to get her back on the road. I don't really have the time or $ to have the G sit while I build it. Right now I'm on the Harley every day (or wifes car when she's not using it), and as I don't mind riding in the rain...sometimes it's nice to be able to just hop in a car and go.