OEM better than aftermarket crankshaft sensor

[crankshaftsensor]

good morning to the brilliant minds of nissan lovers,

I've found myself in a little jam here - I'm just going to lay out the whole situation here with as much details as I can muster to give context and I invite any and all input/suggestions/thoughts/considerations/insights. Thank you so much in advance for taking the time to read and to discuss this issue with me. And please if this issue has been posted elsewhere direct me there (as I was not able to find anything with my initial search)

2007 Nissan X Trail 2.5lt engine - intermittent stalling while driving (dash lights come on, engine dies - put in park, turn off engine, say a prayer and restart with no issue), engine light come on with codes PO335, PO725 and PO113 - changed camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor with aftermarket parts (please note I bought a second crankshaft sensor incase the first one was faulty and it wasn't). Stalling issue seems to have resolved itself but now hesitation starting, cranking lots before engine turn over. First start, lots of cranking, turn off and try again and smooth as butter. Once running, shes a beaut.
My main question is, are there people out there that could verify if these sensors are better with OEM parts rather than aftermarket or do we think the issue is deeper and perhaps related to suction valve pump/wiring in the harness/wiring overall or something more?
Without taking things completely apart - visually it doesn't look like there is wire damage but I don't have the scanner or better tools/equipment to test further - I've been recommended to take it to a dealership for them to use the break out box to test connectivity with the circuits. (my nearest dealership is 1.5hrs away )

[VStar650CL]

NISSAN MASTER TECH ->

I can't begin to tell you how much head-scratching and heartache I've seen over the years caused by aftermarket cam and crank sensors. There are a gazillion parts on any Nissan where aftermarket parts are just fine, but Hall sensors are not among them. Period, full stop.

That said, your P0725 is derivative from the P0335, it's your transmission complaining because the ECM stopped sending the engine speed after it threw the P0335.

The P0113 is probably from inadvertently cycling the key with the MAF disconnected (the IAT is built into the MAF). If that's not the case and the code won't erase then it's time for a new MAF (and aftermarket is fine for that, just make sure you do an IAVL to calibrate it).

[crankshaftsensor]

Thank you for this, I called a bunch of dealership parts departments today as well to help me verify and not all but most confirmed this as well. So, off I go to buy dealer parts. Would you recommend I buy both the cam and crankshaft sensor dealer parts rather than only replacing crankshaft as that was the first code thrown?

[VStar650CL]

I don't believe in replacing what isn't broken. The cam sensor is super easy to replace whenever it fails, and your long cranks are classic symptoms of a failing CKP, not CMP. So although I've occasionally seen QR25 ECM's get confused and blame the wrong sensor, in this case I think that's very unlikely.

That said, you're going to pay a big premium buying the part over the counter instead of online. Most dealers charge "list plus" and jack the price 10% or more above the MSRP. If you can live with the stumble for a bit, give your VIN to a dealer parts department to get the correct Nissan part number for your ride, then use that number to google for discounts. I'm sure somebody in your country (Canada, UK, I dunno, you didn't say) does online OE Nissan parts.

[crankshaftsensor]

Thank you so so much for your help and input on this, I will begin sourcing this part!

[crankshaftsensor]

@VStar650CL I'm stumped again. I'm in British Columbia and skipped buying online and bought the crankshaft sensor at the dealership, installed it, cleared the codes and it's still cranking.
1) would the camshaft have influence over the cranking? It's a new aftermarket part and changed at the same time as the crankshaft - should I try an OEM camshaft now?
2) I'm due for a transmission fluid and filter change - would that change anything?

I'm so freaking stumped and annoyed, thank you again for any and all suggestions/thoughts

[crankshaftsensor]

More...
just googled it and is this legit?

Manual Relearn Procedure
If a diagnostic tool is not available, try the manual method:
Warm Up: Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature.
Idle Relearn: Turn the engine off, then restart it. Let it idle for at least 10 to 15 minutes without touching the gas pedal.
Drive Cycle: Drive the vehicle at a steady speed between 35 and 45 mph for approximately 10 minutes to help the ECU map the new sensor data.
ECU Reset (Alternative)
Disconnect the negative battery cable for at least 15 minutes to clear old memory.
Press the brake pedal for 30 seconds to fully discharge the system.
Reconnect the battery and start the engine, allowing it to idle for 10 minutes.
If the Check Engine Light remains on, the sensor installation may need verification, or a specialized diagnostic scanner may be required for a formal crankshaft position sensor (CPS) relearn procedure.

[VStar650CL]

There's no "learning" associated with the CKP or CMP, only with the MAF and long term fuel trim. You can clear the latter by disconnecting the MAF until the ECM throws a P0102, then reconnect and clear the code. The procedure above won't work for IAVL, you can find the actual manual procedure here on page EC-28, section 3:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 8%2FEC.pdf

That said, none of that will cause a long crank. Is the P0335 gone or still there? I mentioned earlier that the cam won't usually cause a long crank, but the QR25 ECM's do occasionally get confused. If the code is still present then there are three possibilities, a wiring issue, junk on the tone wheel, or the cam sensor. If the code is gone then you may also have a weak fuel pump. That's easy to check, before cranking it pop the airbox and spray something combustible like Brakleen or Gumout down the barrel (don't use ether, that can harm the engine). If it bangs right over with fuel added to the intake then a weak pump is the culprit.

[crankshaftsensor]

Okay how weird is this - I changed the crankshaft on Friday and let it run a few minutes and then drove home (was working at a friends place because I don't have the tools), it was cranking starting before that first drive. Didn't drive yesterday and today went to start it this morning and it cranked for 1second but started well. I'm going to see how the next few starts and drives go and then decide if further work/diagnosis is needed.
Thank you so much for your help with all this - it's given me so much confidence in myself and such appreciation for knowledgable strangers on the internet

[VStar650CL]

You're most welcome. I wish we had real documentation for the early Exxies here, before they adopted the T32 body. The T32's are basically a Rogue with an X-Trail sticker, but the T30 and T31's don't really have a US correspondent. Fortunately I don't need much guesswork to help you with the engine, but Nissan never provided us Exxie FSM's even though we share a border and plenty of Michigan and New York shops see them. I never quite understood the logic of that.