That Q I'm looking at (still), I found, has a weird transmission problem. I am going to test it and I'll fill in some details when I get back if there are any, but the transmission, no matter what shifter position it is in, is always in drive.. if it is in reverse or park it is still drive.. Not sure what gear, but the owner drove it to the shop and he said it drove fine.. Could it be possilbe that this is an easy to fix problem, and wouldn't need a transmission replace? If so I could snatch it up before he gets the transmission replaced for really cheap, and get it fixed, add a cooler, and check/fix the guides and I think come out ok.. I am hoping to get this question resolved asap as he is waiting on my word to do the transmission (and the mechanic is busy he says).
Also, is there a way to check the transmission model number without a wrench? What is the model number on the fixed transmissions? I want to know if it is the original transmission or not. I'm going to check the records real thoroughly, but I don't know how complete they are.
Thanks a bunch,Colin
odd transmission problem..
Underneath the car in the transmission tunnel is a linkage rod that is adjustable. The linkage connects (by a small 12 mm nut) to the "inhibitor switch" on the passenger side of the transmission. My understanding is the inhibitor switch electronically signals the TCU what gear position the selector is on. Does the gear selector "detente" when you move in and out of gears??? Go underneath the car and have someone shift through the gears and see that the linkage is moving and the inhibitor switch is also moving. Try an electrical "self diagnosis" test on the transmission by following pages AT 43-44. Other possibiilities, clogged transmission filter or bad TCU.
turns out the transmission is bad, I looked at it again today, and it "grinds" in 1st/2nd but not once you get to 3rd.. so it definitely needs replacement. It also turn out the guides on the other one he sold went out and that is why he bought it and repaired it (previously understood it too had transmission problem). extensive damage to the engine, 90k miles.. thats another to add to the list. Anyway, I check the records very thoroughly and the previous owners seemed to take pretty good care of it, frequent preventive maintenance. the dealer did all of their work, but I checked the receipts and nothing about guides, and the owner called the dealer and they had no records of guides, so I'm positive now they are original.. Would this be the record? 158k (or 159k can't remember) miles on original guides? The engine still runs and I couldn't here any odd noises.. I think I'll offer him $2000 if his mechanic will do the transmission AND guides for a good price. How many hours should it take someone who's done guides once recently to replace the guides only, w/o chain or tensioner replacement?
Thanks again guys for all the input.Colin
Thanks again guys for all the input.Colin
My car was past 190k when I did the guides. At that point, the failure-prone guide was in the oil pan....there, there, there, there, and over there. I think it's a misconception to think that "bad" guides cause funny noises at idle. If there's nothing there for the chain to rub against, it should be quieter! It's only when the chain jumps that you hear anything unusual, and by then it's too late. Tensioner's are another story. A bad tensioner makes a hell of a racket.
ok, Fred.. will do..
Going by DAEDALUS's post on parts, which of the following parts do I need at an absolute minimum? All I want to do is guides and tensioners assuming I can do those without removing chain.
2x 01121-04711 - bolts for new guides NA1x 13070-60U03 - chain tensioner(RH) $49.901x 13070-60U12 - chain tensioner(LH) $49.904x 13075-60U02 - tensioner bolts $ 5.201x 13079-60U01 - tensioner gasket(LH) $ .562x 13085-60U01 - chain guide $13.182x 13085-60U11 - chain guide $13.181x 13091-60U01 - guide(tension RH) $49.851x 13091-60U11 - guide(tension LH) $49.852x 13094-60U00 - guide bolts NA1x 13510-60U00 - front cover seal $ 5.348x 14032-60U01 - intk manifold gskts $24.80
Do I need the manifold gaskets? I don't know which parts are which, what is the difference between the "chain guide" and the "guide(tension RH/LH)"?
Also, anyone have a pic of the recommended placement for a transmission cooler and how it is mounted?
Thanks again,Colin
Going by DAEDALUS's post on parts, which of the following parts do I need at an absolute minimum? All I want to do is guides and tensioners assuming I can do those without removing chain.
2x 01121-04711 - bolts for new guides NA1x 13070-60U03 - chain tensioner(RH) $49.901x 13070-60U12 - chain tensioner(LH) $49.904x 13075-60U02 - tensioner bolts $ 5.201x 13079-60U01 - tensioner gasket(LH) $ .562x 13085-60U01 - chain guide $13.182x 13085-60U11 - chain guide $13.181x 13091-60U01 - guide(tension RH) $49.851x 13091-60U11 - guide(tension LH) $49.852x 13094-60U00 - guide bolts NA1x 13510-60U00 - front cover seal $ 5.348x 14032-60U01 - intk manifold gskts $24.80
Do I need the manifold gaskets? I don't know which parts are which, what is the difference between the "chain guide" and the "guide(tension RH/LH)"?
Also, anyone have a pic of the recommended placement for a transmission cooler and how it is mounted?
Thanks again,Colin
Tensioners have 2 bolts or nuts each and are easy once you're in there and have the chains cinched up out of the way. No need to touch the plenum or intake gaskets...not sure how they got on the list. That was something I compiled from a couple, maybe 3 sources before I had actually done the job. I'm pretty sure the prices have gone up since that list was made. You do need the guide bolts, and the oil chain and guide like Doug said, just not the intake gaskets.Actually, there might be a couple guides missing...or the prices might be way off. I'll have to check into that. You take out 4 guides, and replace them with 6 guides. Of the 6 pieces you install, 2 are identical to the ones you'll take out, and the other 4 are entirely different from the 2 they replace.
scotsdale Infiniti has a good guide kit with all the parts need to do the guides - something like $450. Includes the oil pump chain and guides too.
When I changed the guides on my Q45, most the originals were down in the pan, but the engine sounded perfectly normal. The chains had obviously been running free for sometime since the passenger side chain had cut halfway through the lower timing cover wall!
BTW the guides will take 8 hours for someone who's done them a few times. A competent mechanic who's never done it before will probably be double that. If the guides are broken and down in the pan, that means a ton more work to drop the craddle/rack to get to the pan.
Dan
When I changed the guides on my Q45, most the originals were down in the pan, but the engine sounded perfectly normal. The chains had obviously been running free for sometime since the passenger side chain had cut halfway through the lower timing cover wall!
BTW the guides will take 8 hours for someone who's done them a few times. A competent mechanic who's never done it before will probably be double that. If the guides are broken and down in the pan, that means a ton more work to drop the craddle/rack to get to the pan.
Dan
DAEDALUS wrote:I think it's a misconception to think that "bad" guides cause funny noises at idle. Tensioner's are another story. A bad tensioner makes a hell of a racket.
How true. After I did my guides and tensioners the car sounded like a diesel. It was awful! It sounded worse that a broken valve. I needlessly pulled the front cover off again to discovered the drivers side tensioner wasn't working right. I was flapping against the chain like a wet rag and banging against the cover. To work properly it needed to be precharged with oil before installation. Of course the shop manual didn't mention this, but there is a bleed point in the LH upper cover to help get air out of the passages.
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Q45tech
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- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
I believe the record for not changing guides was 249,000 miles we saw a failed engine with that miles on the odometer.
The car was trashed long before that but kept on running till that fateful day.
So over the years we have heard the earliest at 75k, many at 120k, some at 200k and now one at 249k. pretty wide distribution not much that can be inferred as to a critical mileage............other than do it..........before"the passenger side chain had cut halfway through the lower timing cover wall!" or it cuts thru the oil pump.
The car was trashed long before that but kept on running till that fateful day.
So over the years we have heard the earliest at 75k, many at 120k, some at 200k and now one at 249k. pretty wide distribution not much that can be inferred as to a critical mileage............other than do it..........before"the passenger side chain had cut halfway through the lower timing cover wall!" or it cuts thru the oil pump.