O6 M45 Lunges on down shift after battery swap

[EHILL]

Hello,

I have an 06 M45 and after swapping out a bad battery for a brand new one and notice the car lunges a little under slow acceleration. I wondering if something needs to be reset after you swap out the battery. Oh under hard acceration it's silky smooth.

One more question:

When you manually shift gears with the stick do you lift off the gas pedal like you would in a manual transmission? I also notice if I accelerate at a slow pace with the maunual trans. it also lunges if I don't let off the gas.

[ken in az]

Hello,

I have an 06 M45 and after swapping out a bad battery for a brand new one and notice the car lunges a little under slow acceleration. I wondering if something needs to be reset after you swap out the battery. Oh under hard acceration it's silky smooth.

One more question:

When you manually shift gears with the stick do you lift off the gas pedal like you would in a manual transmission? I also notice if I accelerate at a slow pace with the maunual trans. it also lunges if I don't let off the gas.

Don't know why you didn't notice that before because mine has always done it. Manual mode shifts the trans a little more aggressively so when you do so at slow speeds you can definitely feel it.

In auto mode I can barely tell that the trans is shifting at slow speeds.

When downshifting you can lift off throttle or keep your foot into it. There is no right or wrong way to do it. Whatever you prefer, honestly I do both depending on the situation.

From what I've read about grounding kits for the G's and Z's - they really make a difference in our heavily electronic vehicles. They normally say that the transmission has improved shifting. I have yet to see this in person or experienced it first hand, but you never know. There could have been something up with your old battery.

ps: I have always been a naysayer to grounding kits, but everyone with a Z and a G say it makes a difference so I don't know, I won't knock it till I try it. From what I've read you need to have at least 8 additional points grounded including the ECU and tran TCU with 4awg wire. Anything less would be pointless.

Someday when I find 40ft of 4awg wire and pure copper connectors for a little less than $10 I might give it a go. I contacted the guy in the Fabricator section of NICO and he said he'd get a kit going, but as of yet we got nothin.

[Double E]

I used 2ga wire on an older VQ I30 and even with 160K miles there was a difference.

(It didn't smoke on start up either.... )

[SteveTheTech]

Hello,

I have an 06 M45 and after swapping out a bad battery for a brand new one and notice the car lunges a little under slow acceleration. I wondering if something needs to be reset after you swap out the battery. Oh under hard acceration it's silky smooth

Try this;1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.

This is the Accelerator Pedal Closed Position Learning Procedure. There is NO confirmation of whether this works or not, it may if not let me know and I'll help you with the next step.

When you manually shift gears with the stick do you lift off the gas pedal like you would in a manual transmission? I also notice if I accelerate at a slow pace with the maunual trans. it also lunges if I don't let off the gas.

I thought long and hard about this when these first came out. Being designed as an automatic with manual control of the valvebody having a continuous throttle signal will be operating the way it was designed. The transmission is not like a true dual clutch controlled F1 style transmission and it still uses a clutch and band traditional style. Have you had any other driveability concerns after you replaced the battery? High Idle or extended cranking time?

[EHILL]

Thanks Steve for your technically sound support......

I'll keep you posted.

As far as other issues I can't think of any after the battery swap. My car has been making a weird noise when I put the car in reverse. It maybe a motor mount. The sound is like a loud clitch.

Thanks again.

[New2Import]

Try this;1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.

This is the Accelerator Pedal Closed Position Learning Procedure. There is NO confirmation of whether this works or not, it may if not let me know and I'll help you with the next step.

I thought long and hard about this when these first came out. Being designed as an automatic with manual control of the valvebody having a continuous throttle signal will be operating the way it was designed. The transmission is not like a true dual clutch controlled F1 style transmission and it still uses a clutch and band traditional style. Have you had any other driveability concerns after you replaced the battery? High Idle or extended cranking time?

Ive had very high idle at times..I bought it used so I dont know the history. My transmission kinda lunged when we first got it. On hills it would kind bunk like a manual transmission at times when you dont hint the rpms and it was hard to duplicate so I didnt have any more thought about it. Thought it was part of having a manual/auto transmission. Im new to the technology. Ill do that and procedure for sure and keep up now. You need to post more often. You have alot of knowledge. Thanks.

[SteveTheTech]

As far as other issues I can't think of any after the battery swap. My car has been making a weird noise when I put the car in reverse. It maybe a motor mount. The sound is like a loud click.

It sounds like you might need to get your base idle reset. If you still have factory warranty you can bring it to them with a complaint of "High Idle, please reset variable parameters" they should cover it without issue. If they want to try to charge you and you want to do it yourself but it is not easy and requires some serious patience.

The Clicking Noise could be one of two simple things. Each of which can be isolated with a very simple test. Apply the parking brake (only a few clicks) and shift into reverse, if the noise persists it is more likely emanating from the rear CV to Hub mounting surface. As torque is applied they shift and there is no lubrication between the two metal surfaces a noise may occur. There is a service bulletin that addresses this incident in some other vehicles. It basically tells you to remove the axles, apply a high quality Molycoat grease, and re-torquing the Axle nuts and replace the Axle shaft bolts. My advise is let them know you know about this procedure so that they do not just re-torque the bolts, in a polite way

The other possibility is the noise is coming from the parking brake. I find that right around the time the rear brakes need replacement, the parking brake usually could use a slight adjustment. There are two adjustment points, one on the pedal assembly, (although, this will not effect your noise as much as the second) and separate star wheel adjustments inside the rear drum assembly. After removing the rear wheels you will see a small rubber plus. The way I adjust them (if removing the rotors to re-surface them) is to thoroughly clean them and sand the shoes just enough to give them a new finish. After the rotors finish their slow cut and I apply a non directional finish (they are both aesthetically pleasing and the proper way of doing it) with Emory cloth. After putting the rotor back on the hub and turn the star wheel (I don't really know the best way to describe this, insert a medium flat head screwdriver with the handle towards the studs and adjust in an upward direction) until you feel resistance then back off the adjuster about two movements.

Sorry to run on a little.

Ive had very high idle at times..I bought it used so I dont know the history. My transmission kinda lunged when we first got it. On hills it would kind bunk like a manual transmission at times when you dont hint the rpms and it was hard to duplicate so I didnt have any more thought about it. Thought it was part of having a manual/auto transmission. Im new to the technology. Ill do that and procedure for sure and keep up now. You need to post more often. You have alot of knowledge. Thanks.

At no point should the idle ever be over ~1800. Your Base Idle Air Volume may need to be reset. The VK has no known issue with throttle control, and if the idle is consistently high (<700 during closed loop operation) the increased load can and will cause accelerated damage to the other driveline components. Nominal base calculated load should be ~20-25% (VK) and 13-27%(VG) with all loads off and an ambient temperature at around 70*F, at sea level.

I try to get into as many topics throughout the Infiniti forum, I do miss a few here and there and have a decent backlog currently. If you have any direct questions that you want my opinion on feel free to email me.

I see in your sig you have one of my favorite Chevys. The mid90s Impala was a great car, if kept correctly. The Police Package was the fastest one I got to drive when I was growing up and they were the last of a dying breed of powerful land yachts.

[New2Import]

Whats this ground issue? What does it solve?

[SteveTheTech]

There is no "ground issue". Ground wires will not effect anything on the M. I'm not getting into a debate on grounding wires again, other than to put in my 0.02C.

Think about it this way,

All of the components the relate to engine operation are either grounded through a control unit, have detectable ground circuits, or compound grounds. All of which will not be effected by attaching a large gauge wire from various components to either a central hub or negative battery terminal. Attaching a wire directly to the casing of the ECM without the protection of a diode is foolish.

[EHILL]

Thanks again Steve!!!!

You are correct the I had the idle reset and it fixed the problem.

Regards,Eric

[ken in az]

Thanks again Steve!!!!

You are correct the I had the idle reset and it fixed the problem.

Regards,Eric

Sweet! I'm gonna do this to my ride.

And I agree with so much of what Steve said about the grounds on any car, but what is the deal with installing a diode for an ECU ground? I don't really understand the reasoning there, could you explain Steve or possibly this deserve another thread? I'm not debating you at all, I've just never heard that before.