o2 sensor?
o2 sensor?
ok quick ? for you guys. I am using a o2 sensor from a different car (bought new at the autoparts) it has 4 wires and as we all know the CA has 3 wires. when i first wired it up i only used 1 of the 2 ground wires and it didnt seem to act up at all. The other day i rewired it because i thought it would work better if i had both wires hooked up. and now its running very rich....keeps fouling out plugs. the ? is should i go back to the ca o2 or just rewired the one i have. I am just wondering if because its a bigger o2 if it will read different and make the car run rich...well any input would help....and thanks for the help sean all that stuff fixed the idle but it wont start because ...big surprised it fouled the plugs and it was getting to late so i will clean them tomorrow and try again
Re: o2 sensor? (Trigger)
well i got so much help on this its hard to start lol. but i did call sean and talk with him it seems that my problem was actually a faulty heat sensor that wouldnt let the car start after it got warm.
Re: o2 sensor? (Trigger)
ok, I'll answer this.
1 wire uses a 'shrouded ground to ECU' signal wire only. As a generalisation, most factory equipped 02 sensors will interchange between manufacturers. The connector will be the biggest problem, as O2 sensors have stainless wire, which is difficult to cut, and impossible to solder. The best way is to get the loom side connector from a wreck, as the wires on the loom side are normal copper/tin, and are easy to splice or transplant into the Nissan loom.
The CA18det has a 3 wire, 2 for heater, 1 for signal. I have experienced the heater going 'short circuit' which blows fuses in strange places thanks to nissan wiring. I recommend even factory wired CA18det owners should put a separate fuse inline for the 12v feed to the 02 heater. With the fuse in place and a short circuit in the heater occurs, the worst thing that will happen is that you'll be blowing a little smoke when cold and engine is under load while cold. If you don't make this modification, and if this problem does blow fuses while you are out on the road, you can simply cut the red wire on the engine side of the 02 sensor to stop the fuse blowing, until you can go buy a replacement 02 sensor.
Heated oxygen sensors use a 12v heater that gets them reading quicker. Otherwise the 02 sensor will not work for the first 5 minutes of driving. The heated versions (when wired correctly) will heat up within 60 seconds.
A 4 wire sensor has two wires that have a resistance between them if you check Ohms between two of the wires. These will be the heater wires. Sometimes they are the same colour, sometimes they are not. Mark them as such, they do not have a polarity, and you need to hook one to a 30 amp fuse to a 12v source, and the other to ground. The remaining two wires are earth and signal. This may take some guesswork, I can't remember whether the earth wire can be identified by measuring continuity between the wire and the body of the sensor.
If you are getting a crappy idle and richness, then experience will tell you the sensor is not connected properly.
Hopefully this helps you and others to get the wiring correct when using generic replacement 02 sensors. I had to figure all of this out when wiring an Autronic SMC to my CA18. The Autronic is good, because the software GUI shows the AFR in a live graph, so you know when the sensor is working, and how long it takes for the heater to get the 02 sensor reading within range after startup.
Have a nice day.
1 wire uses a 'shrouded ground to ECU' signal wire only. As a generalisation, most factory equipped 02 sensors will interchange between manufacturers. The connector will be the biggest problem, as O2 sensors have stainless wire, which is difficult to cut, and impossible to solder. The best way is to get the loom side connector from a wreck, as the wires on the loom side are normal copper/tin, and are easy to splice or transplant into the Nissan loom.
The CA18det has a 3 wire, 2 for heater, 1 for signal. I have experienced the heater going 'short circuit' which blows fuses in strange places thanks to nissan wiring. I recommend even factory wired CA18det owners should put a separate fuse inline for the 12v feed to the 02 heater. With the fuse in place and a short circuit in the heater occurs, the worst thing that will happen is that you'll be blowing a little smoke when cold and engine is under load while cold. If you don't make this modification, and if this problem does blow fuses while you are out on the road, you can simply cut the red wire on the engine side of the 02 sensor to stop the fuse blowing, until you can go buy a replacement 02 sensor.
Heated oxygen sensors use a 12v heater that gets them reading quicker. Otherwise the 02 sensor will not work for the first 5 minutes of driving. The heated versions (when wired correctly) will heat up within 60 seconds.
A 4 wire sensor has two wires that have a resistance between them if you check Ohms between two of the wires. These will be the heater wires. Sometimes they are the same colour, sometimes they are not. Mark them as such, they do not have a polarity, and you need to hook one to a 30 amp fuse to a 12v source, and the other to ground. The remaining two wires are earth and signal. This may take some guesswork, I can't remember whether the earth wire can be identified by measuring continuity between the wire and the body of the sensor.
If you are getting a crappy idle and richness, then experience will tell you the sensor is not connected properly.
Hopefully this helps you and others to get the wiring correct when using generic replacement 02 sensors. I had to figure all of this out when wiring an Autronic SMC to my CA18. The Autronic is good, because the software GUI shows the AFR in a live graph, so you know when the sensor is working, and how long it takes for the heater to get the 02 sensor reading within range after startup.
Have a nice day.
Re: (Nunook)
Yes, one of the heater wires constantly get voltage, ignition voltage, I recommend a separate fuse for the 12V feed, which could be taken from the coils 12V line (The middle wire on the coil connector).The other o2 heater wire goes to earth.
The ECU has nothing to do with 12v supply to the o2 heater. Except if you chose to draw the 12v from the ECCS relay, so the o2 heater is only on when the IGN is on.
Chris
The ECU has nothing to do with 12v supply to the o2 heater. Except if you chose to draw the 12v from the ECCS relay, so the o2 heater is only on when the IGN is on.
Chris
Re: (dattodude)
ok after doing some searching and reading this again and looking at my cars wiring then i have figured out this is the problem and I will be rewiring the o2 sensor either tonight or tomorrow and will get back to you guys and let you know it this solves my problem
Re: (Trigger)
ok I think i might have it now. here is was i did
CA harness o2 sensorwhite signal / black signal12v / white heater wireengine ground / white groundengine ground / grey ground
I tried hooking up the pin 115 but i never really could tell what it was for so i never could get it to work right but when i hooked it up like it is now it started working great...still idling high but i will work with that later
CA harness o2 sensorwhite signal / black signal12v / white heater wireengine ground / white groundengine ground / grey ground
I tried hooking up the pin 115 but i never really could tell what it was for so i never could get it to work right but when i hooked it up like it is now it started working great...still idling high but i will work with that later
Re: (Trigger)
Thanks for the update. Good to hear you are getting it all together!
Re: (dattodude)
well i drove it today and see drove very nice but i think the o2 is bad because its sending a lean signal but the engine is running rich. i will get a new 3 wire o2 and go from there