o2 sensor help! Bank 1 Sensor 1

[qx4dude]

Hey Guys,

I know i have a similar thread to this topic already but i needed to get some unanswered questions asap!

Where is bank 1 sensor 1 located? Its a 2002 qx4

Is this an easy job to do yourself? Does it have to be a nissan 02 sensor or are aftermarket ones ok too?

Once the sensor is replaced does the ECU need reflashing or anything like that? All i have is an obd2 scanner to check and clear the codes.

Thanks!

[alexf20c]

bank 1 is driver's side, bank 2 is passenger's side. sensor 1 is upstream (before the catalytic converter), sensor 2 is downstream (after).

you can use oem or aftermarket sensors. i would consider it an easy job, just rent a "Oxygen Sensor Socket" from autozone/oreilly/advance/etc to make life easier on you. be sure to disconnect the wiring harness first!

the code will eventually clear itself, but it won't hurt to clear the code yourself. just remember that anytime you clear the code, that circuit will read "Not Ready" which is still considered a test failure for emissions inspection.

keep it in the same thread next time. i would've seen it in your first thread, as would everybody else. all you're doing is filling up this forum with useless clutter.

[qx4dude]

Thanks for the detailed help! I will keep it all in the same thread next time too

Can sensor one be reached from the engine bay? or do i need to get under the truck?

[Empty V]

bank 1 is driver's side, bank 2 is passenger's side. sensor 1 is upstream (before the catalytic converter), sensor 2 is downstream (after).

you can use oem or aftermarket sensors. i would consider it an easy job, just rent a "Oxygen Sensor Socket" from autozone/oreilly/advance/etc to make life easier on you. be sure to disconnect the wiring harness first!

the code will eventually clear itself, but it won't hurt to clear the code yourself. just remember that anytime you clear the code, that circuit will read "Not Ready" which is still considered a test failure for emissions inspection.

keep it in the same thread next time. i would've seen it in your first thread, as would everybody else. all you're doing is filling up this forum with useless clutter.

I thought bank 2 was driver's side.

Billy

[Pwnin O'Brien]

I thought bank 2 was driver's side.

Billy

Yep, bank 2 is driver side.



EDIT: Also, let me point out that replacement of any O2 sensor on the R50 is complicated by the zip-ties which secure the wiring to the vehicle. Some can be very difficult to reach and will be impossible to replace since they cannot be accessed with human hands without major disassembly.
Modified by Pwnin O'Brien at 1:47 PM 1/15/2010

[qx4dude]

know of any good tips or Diy for this job then? I would like to do it myself to save some cash.

[Pwnin O'Brien]

know of any good tips or Diy for this job then? I would like to do it myself to save some cash.

Well pulling out the old O2 sensor and putting in the new one is pretty simple and straightforward. You most definitely want the oxygen sensor socket, it will make the job much easier and it will save your knuckles (a breaker bar can also make it easier to remove the old sensor). The hard part is cutting all of the zip-ties in the hard to reach spots. It shouldn't take more than an hour to swap them out.

[qx4dude]

Thanks you have been a big help! Will i need to get some new zip ties for the new wiring?

[Pwnin O'Brien]

Thanks you have been a big help! Will i need to get some new zip ties for the new wiring?

The ones on the factory O2 wiring aren't standard zip-ties. They are the gray zip-ties that go through sheet metal to hold the wires to the vehicle; I don't think you can buy these zip-ties anywhere other than the dealer. You will have to break the old zip-ties so if you want to secure the wires down properly you will need to acquire new ones from the dealer.

[qx4dude]

Thanks again for your help. I cleared the code last Thursday and it has not come back on yet. Do you you think it's best to wait until th code shows again before spending the time and money? Or once th code shows once it's a forsure?Thanks brian

[Pwnin O'Brien]

Thanks again for your help. I cleared the code last Thursday and it has not come back on yet. Do you you think it's best to wait until th code shows again before spending the time and money? Or once th code shows once it's a forsure?Thanks brian

Well instead of replacement you can try cleaning the offending O2 sensor to prevent the SES light from coming on again. If you pull out the O2 sensor and soak it in gasoline for a couple of days you can probably extend the life of the sensor. As an alternative (if you need to drive the vehicle and can't let it sit for a few days) you can buy a can of CRC electronics cleaner (you can buy it at most auto parts stores) and thoroughly spray the sensor. This will clean the carbon deposits from the sensor and help extend its life. These methods are not guaranteed to fix the O2 sensor but they are cheap and worth a try.

[GRNMACHINE]

Not sure if this has been answered yet, are there any benefits of relacing Bank 2 Sensor 2 (drivers side after cat)? The Service Engine light is starting to get annoying. Dont see any difference in the crappy gas mileage I have always had, nor the performance, driveability etc. If there is any benefit to mileage or ilding at all I will feel better about replacing it. Otherwise I feel like I am wasting time and money for a Service Engine light. Thanks in advance.

[Innovazn]

Not sure if this has been answered yet, are there any benefits of relacing Bank 2 Sensor 2 (drivers side after cat)? The Service Engine light is starting to get annoying. Dont see any difference in the crappy gas mileage I have always had, nor the performance, driveability etc. If there is any benefit to mileage or ilding at all I will feel better about replacing it. Otherwise I feel like I am wasting time and money for a Service Engine light. Thanks in advance.

thats what i want to know, my passenger cat has gone south on me

[Pwnin O'Brien]

The post-cat oxygen sensors are purely for emissions testing purposes. The post cat sensors do not alter the fuel/air mixture in any way and it does not dictate engine performance or fuel consumption. Generally, if something were to go wrong with the actual catalytic converter, it would register a specific DTC which is for catalytic converter failure. You won't hurt your car or reduce your MPG's or anything of the sort by not replacing the sensor. The vehicle will remain in closed-loop operation and function normally.

[GRNMACHINE]

Big Thanks Pwnin for the info. Will look into getting a scanner to clear the code. I need to do some searching, were you the one talking about a scanner software to load on laptop? Thanks!

[dk203040]

you can use oem or aftermarket sensors. i would consider it an easy job, just rent a "Oxygen Sensor Socket" from autozone/oreilly/advance/etc to make life easier on you. be sure to disconnect the wiring harness first!

the code will eventually clear itself, but it won't hurt to clear the code yourself. just remember that anytime you clear the code, that circuit will read "Not Ready" which is still considered a test failure for emissions inspection.

Question: How can I get the Oxygen sensor to complete it's test? . . .
I recently replaced the Swirl Valve Control Valve Solenoid and successfully fixed the P1130 code. I cleared the code a few times before replacing the SVC Solenoid and then again finally after the repair.

That fixed the relentless P1130 code, but when I check my 2003 QX4 with the Innova 3030 Code reader, it shows that the Oxygen Sensor Test icon is blinking = "Monitor has not run".

I have been driving the car for several days now, and the 'Test' still has "NOT Run", icon is still blinking. . . .How can I get the Oxygen sensor Test to run and complete?

Thanks.

-Dennis

[Towncivilian]

The most efficient driving pattern to yield "CMPLT" status for all emission related components is described starting on page EC-78 of the factory service manual.

[dk203040]

The most efficient driving pattern to yield "CMPLT" status for all emission related components is described starting on page EC-78 of the factory service manual.

Thanks for the quick info. I'm lost in reading page 78 and around there. It seems as though my normal street driving had put in enough start and stops to do the reset for the Oxygen sensor.

The part about running up to 56 MPH, etc., then 0, then repeat 10 TIMES. I can't do that. I'm clearly not understanding the required proceedure. ...Help please.

-Dennis

[Towncivilian]

Well, the procedure isn't required, it should eventually become "CMPLT" after a while of normal driving. Do you have any engine codes currently?

[dk203040]

Well, the procedure isn't required, it should eventually become "CMPLT" after a while of normal driving. Do you have any engine codes currently?

All is good now. I just got back from running the truck up on the freeway, (which is not part of my normal driving; 2003 Qx4 with 54,000 miles), and the Oxygen sensor finally 'Completed the Test'. All test icons are normal and no DTC's nor pending codes.

Still would like to have a basic understanding of how to read/understand the requirements for completing the test.

Thanks again. I really do appreciate and enjoy this forum.

-Dennis

[Towncivilian]

Glad you were able to get it completed. I admit I'm not up to par regarding emissions testing and completion status either. There are no emissions inspections (or inspections of any kind for that matter) in Florida so having a working emissions system is not paramount in my case (though I keep everything working regardless). The FSM is really the best way to learn the ODB-II emissions drive cycle completion procedure, though there always seems to be too much jargon...

I, too, rarely go on the freeway and when I had classes 30 miles away and made frequent use of the Turnpike, I got a rear O2 heater code which never popped up during city driving. It seems highway driving does help in the drive cycle detection for emissions components. I ended up replacing the O2 sensor for the cost of a $50 Bosch direct-fit sensor just to get the SES light off.