O-Ringed block & Stock Gasket

[LT_Z]

Im really thinking i should O ring my block but if i do which head gasket do i use, do i have to buy like a cometic or do i still use stock ?

[Nathan]

Typically you use a copper headgasket when you O-Ring your block...however, I have heard reports that there are long term sealing problems between water passages when you do this. The stock headgaskets and fel-pro headgaskets have proven to be quite stout.

[LT_Z]

Ok so O-Ring might not be necessary ? and you mean that flepro/stock is working fine without o rings ? correct ?

[WDRacing]

A good metal type HG will work fine...Oring is mainly for huge boost. I ran 28 psi with a metal shim type from HKS, never had a sealing problem. If you do decide to go Oring though, I would use copper.

WD

[LT_Z]

Really im lookin for Huge boost. Im actually shootin for like 450-500RWHP. So probly have to run high 20's psi. You think i can get away with like the Cometic or should i try and find the HKS ?

[WDRacing]

I'm not familiar with cometic...a solid metal or copper will work.

WD

[scotty-2-forty]

The Cometic HG is a multilayer metal design which will give with the different heat expansion rates between the aluminum head and iron block. I have experience with o-ringing and the composite HG's ... it is true about the waterjackets; I'd skip this all together. I don't have experience with HKS metal gasket. But, Cometic gaskets are used in top professional drag cars all over the world; monster HP and TQ, naturally aspirated and boosted alike ... that should speak for itself.

[scotty-2-forty]

The biggest issue you'll find is that copper and metals don't take well to the block and head mating surfaces. If you go the copper HG route, be sure to use a coated copper HG or o-ring the fluid jackets. Copper material alone doesn't seal fluids too well, and for boosted or higher compression NA's I would definitely machine in some o-ring grooves fitted for stainless steel rings.

[WDRacing]

The HKS is the same type Scotty...basically to gaskey sides and a metal shim inbetween. Good for tons of boost...

WD

[LT_Z]

wow so o ring all the water passages, and cyl's ? WD is that what i would need to do for the HKS also ? Oh and ive heard of some type of copper sealer thats used with the metalheadgaskets is that needed or am i way off ?

[DaveEEE]

wow so o ring all the water passages, and cyl's ? WD is that what i would need to do for the HKS also ? Oh and ive heard of some type of copper sealer thats used with the metalheadgaskets is that needed or am i way off ?

DOOOOOOOOOOOO Not o-ring the block! I just went through this 3 months back, after waiting 6 months to get my car back, and it lasted only 600 miles. Over heated at only 5psi and ruined a brand new set of JE pistons and freshly machined block.

I'm currently in a lawsuit with the shop, so its a big mess. Simply get yourself a stock headgasket or felpro from autozone ($30!) which I am using, and arp head studs from ka24de.com and you'll be set man. Just don't do it, on a KA it isnt worth the trouble it'll cost you down the road.

[LT_Z]

I wish i could find studs for my Ka24e Does anyone know if there is a crossreference on some other studs i could use ? I think with an HKS/COmetic HG and studs i would be fine at near 30psi

[WDRacing]

Any metal head gasket will work...Felpro makes GREAT gaskets, I only went with HKS cause you can't find many HG's for the RB20. As far as crossing, you can either ship ARP a stock rod or give them the dimensions and they should be able to hook you up.

WD