There too big to fit cause of the shed 80 gauge piping the manifold was made out of.Carl H wrote:use exhaust manifold nuts...they work the trick.
I have the same issue with my manifold. You need to just loosely get all the nuts on first, then you can begin tightening them down. I start with the nuts that are the hardest to get first, i do each of them a few turns at a time then move to the next, slowly pressing the manifold into the head. It takes me a while, but it does the trick.Yellow4g63 wrote:
There too big to fit cause of the shed 80 gauge piping the manifold was made out of.
The tops are fine it's just the studs on the bottom are the problem.
I was trying to avoid micro wrenching lol drives me crazy. I might have to find my short 14mm box wrench fak.Shocker wrote:
I have the same issue with my manifold. You need to just loosely get all the nuts on first, then you can begin tightening them down. I start with the nuts that are the hardest to get first, i do each of them a few turns at a time then move to the next, slowly pressing the manifold into the head. It takes me a while, but it does the trick.
Good luck.
I wasn't clear enough the 1st time so no problems.240z4u wrote:The studs are too long obviously, shorten them. That should make it a little less painless.
Sorry, I totally missed the boat on what you were asking the first go-round.
I thought it was m10 on the factory studs. Anything that can keep me from micro wrenching is a good deal to me.gawdzilla wrote:arent the stock manifold-to-head studs m8s? any reason why you are using m10? i use the factory studs with factory nuts and "yokes" or whatever they call those thick washers without issues..
12mm instead of 14mm nut head sizes should help a lot..
weird... on the 26 i'm PRETTY sure they nuts are 12mm heads, so probably m8s. on the manifold to turbos they are 13mm heads factory IIRC, and for the greddy manifold to turbos they are 14mm heads (m10).Yellow4g63 wrote:
I thought it was m10 on the factory studs. Anything that can keep me from micro wrenching is a good deal to me.
yeah they are copper and no it's not a 6 boost manifold. I had the head redone a few years ago before it went back on the car. Installed new oem studs.Bluefire wrote:RB26 exhaust studs and nuts are 8mm
RB25/RB20 exhaust studs are 10mm
For the original poster, it looks like your installing a 6boost manifold. I installed one for someone and it came with shorter studs along with new nuts.
I tried putting the manifold over the factory studs and it hit the runners. If you didn't get the shorter studs I would buy a new set. I believe SR20 studs are like 10mm shorter. As for the nuts, I would not use the ones pictured above unless they are copper. Copper nuts work great but they are super expensive and hard to find.
Stay away from the steel version of those nuts. As well as stainless steel nuts. They both have a high probability of siezing on the stud from personal experience.
I highly recommend stock factory style, mild steel locking nuts or just some basic mild steel non-locking nuts (tightened properly, they should not come loose)
thanks for the correction. sorry about the misinformation.. thought they'd be the same i've also had bad luck with stainless relief-cut nuts seizing when trying to remove them. had to cut them off with a dremel.. not fun. for the manifold, whenever you find whatever nut/stud combo size that works, i'd recommend just a regular nut too. manifold to head nuts don't back off really. tq it right and use some anti-seize. helps the nut from seizing as well as loosening itself.Bluefire wrote:RB26 exhaust studs and nuts are 8mm
RB25/RB20 exhaust studs are 10mm
Stay away from the steel version of those nuts. As well as stainless steel nuts. They both have a high probability of siezing on the stud from personal experience.
I highly recommend stock factory style, mild steel locking nuts or just some basic mild steel non-locking nuts (tightened properly, they should not come loose)