Not the way I drive...float_6969 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:12 pmI mean, it only has exhaust flowing through it once it opens, so in theory, it shouldn't get nearly as hot as the rest of the exhaust does.
Good point. Yeah, I'll keep an eye on things. Put a few miles on it and nothing yet but, we will see.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 11, 2022 11:48 amYeah its all connected too... and exhaust material (steel, stainless, etc) is all a pretty good conductor.
Ah, I'll get a better angle of what I'm talking about. I see what you're referring to. Spent all day installing a new hot water heater and inline filter. Lets see if we can make this one last a little longer. Maaayyyybe if it's nicer out tomorrow I'll get the s14 out and try out those pads some more.float_6969 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 4:01 pmI don't think your first pic cropped the way you wanted it to. I can just barely see what I think you're talking about.
i have been researching these myself lately. from what i can gather, the z33/g35 brembo's are bolt on once you drill out the mounting holes on the spindles to 14mm. for me, it's either going that route with used or reman'd calipers, or going new cts-v 4 piston brembo's with adapter brackets. the cost difference is only around $60 between the two, both setups will use the same z33/g35 brembo rotors. i'm leaning more towards the cts-v setup only because they are brand new calipers vs used/reman calipers and the cost difference is very minimal.
That's what it's looking like. I believe the S-chassis/Z32 calipers are M10X1.25 and the Z33 Brembos are M12x1.25 so another option would be to use a threaded insert like >>this<< in the Z33 calipers, and use some Loctite to ensure it doesn't come loose. I don't know I'd feel comfortable doing that but, something to consider if you absolutely didn't want to drill the knuckles.m tr4nch wrote: ↑Sat Mar 19, 2022 12:57 ami have been researching these myself lately. from what i can gather, the z33/g35 brembo's are bolt on once you drill out the mounting holes on the spindles to 14mm. for me, it's either going that route with used or reman'd calipers, or going new cts-v 4 piston brembo's with adapter brackets. the cost difference is only around $60 between the two, both setups will use the same z33/g35 brembo rotors. i'm leaning more towards the cts-v setup only because they are brand new calipers vs used/reman calipers and the cost difference is very minimal.
The brakes seem to be working just fine on this setup. Granted they're Z32 front calipers and rear but swapping to Z33 front calipers is only going to improve the pad to rotor contact area here I think. For me, having the ability to adjust bias with this setup is what I'll be leaning on but I don't know for the stock BMC what you'd do.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 19, 2022 6:47 amWhat would you guys do for rear brakes? I imagine you'd be extremely front bias after the swap... can an adjustable proportioning valve take up the difference?
interesting idea with the threaded inserts. would definitely be the best, less intrusive way to do the swap if you go the g35/350z brembo route.NukeKS14 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 19, 2022 8:57 amThat's what it's looking like. I believe the S-chassis/Z32 calipers are M10X1.25 and the Z33 Brembos are M12x1.25 so another option would be to use a threaded insert like >>this<< in the Z33 calipers, and use some Loctite to ensure it doesn't come loose. I don't know I'd feel comfortable doing that but, something to consider if you absolutely didn't want to drill the knuckles.
Those are M12x1.25 on the outer threads and M10x1.25 on the inner. I don't know what the material is. I'd be MORE inclined to use a locking threaded insert if I went that route but, yeah it looks like the calipers fit and align with minimal work either way.
Is it M14 though? am I off on that scale and the Z32/S are M12 and Z33 M14?
*Edit* Here's the link I was thinking about it. The pics are dead but if this is right the user drilled their spindle/knuckles with a 1/2" drill bit and that converts to an M12.
http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.as ... tSearch=45
racing brake is good stuff, i had their 2-piece rotors on my g35 front & rear. those kits are definitely out of my price range right now though lol. thanks for sharing your info/experience!float_6969 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 4:41 amThis is the kit I'm using (It was WAY cheaper when I bought it years ago, but still expensive then);
https://racingbrake.com/300zx-z32-90-96/
Obviously you have to convert the rear to 300zx with that kit, but the rear brake setup is the best I've seen. It's the only rear rotor with internal cooling fins I've ever seen. The front rotor is fully floating. The pads that came with the kit are pretty good as well. No noise, low/no dust. They're a common racing pad, so you don't have to get pads from that company if you don't want to. They have more aggressive pads available if you wanted as well. I tried to run that kit with a single circuit master no bias adjuster. There was so much rear braking available that under hard braking, the rears would lock up before the fronts. Once I got the bias adjuster installed and adjusted, I was able to get the brake bias set up really well. Now that I've moved that kit to the "new" S14 and I've paired it with a B13/N13 booster and a Z32 brake master, it's the best brake feel I've ever had with ANY brake setup I've ever owned, or felt, on any S-chassis care ever.
I'm not trying to sell anyone anything, but it's a REALLK good kit. If it's in your price range, you won't be disappointed.
In the standalone pic, you can see a hose attached to the bottom. There's a ring around the fitting. You loosen and the contents come out of the hose. The fitting spins radially so the hose is pointed down but can free spin so I'll put it in an empty water bottle to catch the liquid. They also have an option to add a sight glass level indicator or a third -10AN fittingPapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 23, 2022 8:05 amYeah those look good!
How does one empty that catch can?
Meant to thank you in last post. busy afternoon.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 23, 2022 8:05 amYeah those look good!
How does one empty that catch can?
NukeKS14 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 19, 2022 8:57 amThat's what it's looking like. I believe the S-chassis/Z32 calipers are M10X1.25 and the Z33 Brembos are M12x1.25 so another option would be to use a threaded insert like >>this<< in the Z33 calipers, and use some Loctite to ensure it doesn't come loose. I don't know I'd feel comfortable doing that but, something to consider if you absolutely didn't want to drill the knuckles.m tr4nch wrote: ↑Sat Mar 19, 2022 12:57 ami have been researching these myself lately. from what i can gather, the z33/g35 brembo's are bolt on once you drill out the mounting holes on the spindles to 14mm. for me, it's either going that route with used or reman'd calipers, or going new cts-v 4 piston brembo's with adapter brackets. the cost difference is only around $60 between the two, both setups will use the same z33/g35 brembo rotors. i'm leaning more towards the cts-v setup only because they are brand new calipers vs used/reman calipers and the cost difference is very minimal.
Those are M12x1.25 on the outer threads and M10x1.25 on the inner. I don't know what the material is. I'd be MORE inclined to use a locking threaded insert if I went that route but, yeah it looks like the calipers fit and align with minimal work either way.
Is it M14 though? am I off on that scale and the Z32/S are M12 and Z33 M14?
*Edit* Here's the link I was thinking about it. The pics are dead but if this is right the user drilled their spindle/knuckles with a 1/2" drill bit and that converts to an M12.
http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.as ... tSearch=45
The brakes seem to be working just fine on this setup. Granted they're Z32 front calipers and rear but swapping to Z33 front calipers is only going to improve the pad to rotor contact area here I think. For me, having the ability to adjust bias with this setup is what I'll be leaning on but I don't know for the stock BMC what you'd do.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 19, 2022 6:47 amWhat would you guys do for rear brakes? I imagine you'd be extremely front bias after the swap... can an adjustable proportioning valve take up the difference?
I'd like to think that the rear Z32 setup is going to be just fine with good pads. There are some places that do full-on Wilwood upgrades for everything but I like being able to go to the Advance/OReally and buy parts (Except for my BMC now I guess...)
Great info, thanks!itsa300zx wrote: ↑Sun Apr 24, 2022 11:16 am
If you drill the hubs out, you can never go back. Use timesert inserts, I did the conversion on my z32 last year. Here is some info:
Note that Z33 brembos are M14x1.5 and NOT M14x1.25
http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/f ... x-hub.html