Look great! Definitely gave you some more room for the external waste gate. I'm curious how the plastic knob on the bias adjuster is going to fare, but if's the same one I used to have, it's a pretty stout plastic. When I deformed my brake master reservoir, that knob wasn't effected at all.

I hope that's the case. The hat on the ewg doesn't appear to radiate a ton of heat. We will see. Front brake pads got here today.

I mean, it only has exhaust flowing through it once it opens, so in theory, it shouldn't get nearly as hot as the rest of the exhaust does.

float_6969 wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:12 pm

I mean, it only has exhaust flowing through it once it opens, so in theory, it shouldn't get nearly as hot as the rest of the exhaust does.

Not the way I drive...

Yeah its all connected too... and exhaust material (steel, stainless, etc) is all a pretty good conductor.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 11, 2022 11:48 am

Yeah its all connected too... and exhaust material (steel, stainless, etc) is all a pretty good conductor.

Good point. Yeah, I'll keep an eye on things. Put a few miles on it and nothing yet but, we will see.

So I got the brake pads swapped over to the Carbotech units today aaand.... I am not a huge fan of the pad alignment/overlap on the fronts. I am seriously considering swapping the front calipers out to the Z33 brembo ones as that's what the rotors are from. I was aware that due to caliper placement, the pad wouldn't cover the entire rotor and leave about an 8MM ring around the inside, what I guess I didn't realize is that's because they're spaced up and above the rotor. You can see the 'bar' on the top of the pad where it's not touching the rotor.



So far, in bedding them in, the initial bite is just about perfect for what I want. The downside is that standard race-pad whine while they're cold under light-pedal pressure (like coasting to a stop in town.) Also it was about 35F out today so, pretty chilly. As far as feel and response, though. I like this a lot. I am going to run this for a while and look into the Z33 calipers in more earnest.


All in all I'm happy with the setup as it is though. Now to get on with those rear subframe bushings.

I don't think your first pic cropped the way you wanted it to. I can just barely see what I think you're talking about.

float_6969 wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 14, 2022 4:01 pm

I don't think your first pic cropped the way you wanted it to. I can just barely see what I think you're talking about.

Ah, I'll get a better angle of what I'm talking about. I see what you're referring to. Spent all day installing a new hot water heater and inline filter. Lets see if we can make this one last a little longer. Maaayyyybe if it's nicer out tomorrow I'll get the s14 out and try out those pads some more.

NukeKS14 wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 12, 2022 8:24 pm

I am seriously considering swapping the front calipers out to the Z33 brembo ones as that's what the rotors are from.

i have been researching these myself lately. from what i can gather, the z33/g35 brembo's are bolt on once you drill out the mounting holes on the spindles to 14mm. for me, it's either going that route with used or reman'd calipers, or going new cts-v 4 piston brembo's with adapter brackets. the cost difference is only around $60 between the two, both setups will use the same z33/g35 brembo rotors. i'm leaning more towards the cts-v setup only because they are brand new calipers vs used/reman calipers and the cost difference is very minimal.

What would you guys do for rear brakes? I imagine you'd be extremely front bias after the swap... can an adjustable proportioning valve take up the difference?

m tr4nch wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 19, 2022 12:57 am

i have been researching these myself lately. from what i can gather, the z33/g35 brembo's are bolt on once you drill out the mounting holes on the spindles to 14mm. for me, it's either going that route with used or reman'd calipers, or going new cts-v 4 piston brembo's with adapter brackets. the cost difference is only around $60 between the two, both setups will use the same z33/g35 brembo rotors. i'm leaning more towards the cts-v setup only because they are brand new calipers vs used/reman calipers and the cost difference is very minimal.

That's what it's looking like. I believe the S-chassis/Z32 calipers are M10X1.25 and the Z33 Brembos are M12x1.25 so another option would be to use a threaded insert like >>this<< in the Z33 calipers, and use some Loctite to ensure it doesn't come loose. I don't know I'd feel comfortable doing that but, something to consider if you absolutely didn't want to drill the knuckles.


Those are M12x1.25 on the outer threads and M10x1.25 on the inner. I don't know what the material is. I'd be MORE inclined to use a locking threaded insert if I went that route but, yeah it looks like the calipers fit and align with minimal work either way.

Is it M14 though? am I off on that scale and the Z32/S are M12 and Z33 M14?

*Edit* Here's the link I was thinking about it. The pics are dead but if this is right the user drilled their spindle/knuckles with a 1/2" drill bit and that converts to an M12.

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.as ... tSearch=45

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 19, 2022 6:47 am

What would you guys do for rear brakes? I imagine you'd be extremely front bias after the swap... can an adjustable proportioning valve take up the difference?

The brakes seem to be working just fine on this setup. Granted they're Z32 front calipers and rear but swapping to Z33 front calipers is only going to improve the pad to rotor contact area here I think. For me, having the ability to adjust bias with this setup is what I'll be leaning on but I don't know for the stock BMC what you'd do.

I'd like to think that the rear Z32 setup is going to be just fine with good pads. There are some places that do full-on Wilwood upgrades for everything but I like being able to go to the Advance/OReally and buy parts (Except for my BMC now I guess...)

NukeKS14 wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 19, 2022 8:57 am

That's what it's looking like. I believe the S-chassis/Z32 calipers are M10X1.25 and the Z33 Brembos are M12x1.25 so another option would be to use a threaded insert like >>this<< in the Z33 calipers, and use some Loctite to ensure it doesn't come loose. I don't know I'd feel comfortable doing that but, something to consider if you absolutely didn't want to drill the knuckles.


Those are M12x1.25 on the outer threads and M10x1.25 on the inner. I don't know what the material is. I'd be MORE inclined to use a locking threaded insert if I went that route but, yeah it looks like the calipers fit and align with minimal work either way.

Is it M14 though? am I off on that scale and the Z32/S are M12 and Z33 M14?

*Edit* Here's the link I was thinking about it. The pics are dead but if this is right the user drilled their spindle/knuckles with a 1/2" drill bit and that converts to an M12.

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.as ... tSearch=45

interesting idea with the threaded inserts. would definitely be the best, less intrusive way to do the swap if you go the g35/350z brembo route.

i do believe it's m12 on the s/z32 and m14 on z33/v35/ctsv. looking at the ctsv brake swap site and their install instructions, you tap the lower caliper mount hole to m14.
and in this thread he says you drill out both holes to m14 to accept the g35/350z brembo calipers.

i guess if one does decide to drill the holes to 14mm, another option to make the swap reversible back to 12mm you could always buy/have spacers made so you could use the smaller bolts with regular s/z32 brakes again. kinda like when you use these sleeves for s14 knuckles with s13 coilovers. in fact, those may even be 12mm ID and 14mm OD if i remember correctly lol. would just need to be cut to the correct length then.

This is the kit I'm using (It was WAY cheaper when I bought it years ago, but still expensive then);
https://racingbrake.com/300zx-z32-90-96/

Obviously you have to convert the rear to 300zx with that kit, but the rear brake setup is the best I've seen. It's the only rear rotor with internal cooling fins I've ever seen. The front rotor is fully floating. The pads that came with the kit are pretty good as well. No noise, low/no dust. They're a common racing pad, so you don't have to get pads from that company if you don't want to. They have more aggressive pads available if you wanted as well. I tried to run that kit with a single circuit master no bias adjuster. There was so much rear braking available that under hard braking, the rears would lock up before the fronts. Once I got the bias adjuster installed and adjusted, I was able to get the brake bias set up really well. Now that I've moved that kit to the "new" S14 and I've paired it with a B13/N13 booster and a Z32 brake master, it's the best brake feel I've ever had with ANY brake setup I've ever owned, or felt, on any S-chassis care ever.

I'm not trying to sell anyone anything, but it's a REALLK good kit. If it's in your price range, you won't be disappointed.

float_6969 wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 24, 2022 4:41 am

This is the kit I'm using (It was WAY cheaper when I bought it years ago, but still expensive then);
https://racingbrake.com/300zx-z32-90-96/

Obviously you have to convert the rear to 300zx with that kit, but the rear brake setup is the best I've seen. It's the only rear rotor with internal cooling fins I've ever seen. The front rotor is fully floating. The pads that came with the kit are pretty good as well. No noise, low/no dust. They're a common racing pad, so you don't have to get pads from that company if you don't want to. They have more aggressive pads available if you wanted as well. I tried to run that kit with a single circuit master no bias adjuster. There was so much rear braking available that under hard braking, the rears would lock up before the fronts. Once I got the bias adjuster installed and adjusted, I was able to get the brake bias set up really well. Now that I've moved that kit to the "new" S14 and I've paired it with a B13/N13 booster and a Z32 brake master, it's the best brake feel I've ever had with ANY brake setup I've ever owned, or felt, on any S-chassis care ever.

I'm not trying to sell anyone anything, but it's a REALLK good kit. If it's in your price range, you won't be disappointed.

racing brake is good stuff, i had their 2-piece rotors on my g35 front & rear. those kits are definitely out of my price range right now though lol. thanks for sharing your info/experience!

Still missing those pics I promised of the brake pads but I was busy, I swear! I crashed a Z-club meet in KC this weekend. Great group of guys, will have to do it again. Here are some apology pics until I get back to work in the garage and share a real update.

I got a huge hookup and snagged some S15 seats for it finally. The left hand seat which will be the driver's side is nearly mint.




Very nice 280 from the meet. I think this is Champage Gold Metallic? My memory is fuzzy but I saw a Fairlady in that color at the Nissan Global HQ in Yokohama and I think it's one of my favorites for the early Z lineup.



Very well executed 350Z-LS swap. It sounded great too.




Oh yeah! I got a deal on an S14 Zenki Navan grille too a couple of weeks back. This is in the "when I get around to finishing the body" queue with the EDM headlights and new bumper.

Been busy with life stuff but I managed to get the seats installed and my new TFF catchcan showed up. I hope to have her up on jackstands tomorrow to work on bushings for the subframe. What better to do while the wife's out of town, right?

The catchcan is really well made. I like this loads better than the dual-can setup I had going before.




The driver's seat is mint. There's the standard wear that goes with a 20 year old driver's seat on the other side. These things are SUPER comfy.

Yeah those look good!
How does one empty that catch can?

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 23, 2022 8:05 am

Yeah those look good!
How does one empty that catch can?

In the standalone pic, you can see a hose attached to the bottom. There's a ring around the fitting. You loosen and the contents come out of the hose. The fitting spins radially so the hose is pointed down but can free spin so I'll put it in an empty water bottle to catch the liquid. They also have an option to add a sight glass level indicator or a third -10AN fitting

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 23, 2022 8:05 am

Yeah those look good!
How does one empty that catch can?

Meant to thank you in last post. busy afternoon.

here's a better pic

I got ya.
My catch cans also tend to fill up with sludgy schmoo... is there a way to clean that out too? I have to remove mine and wipe it out, but I suppose you could always chemically clean it (like with brake cleaner or something).

Yeah those 4 bolts on top are for the filter element. You can just pop those out and access it through there

NukeKS14 wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 19, 2022 8:57 am

m tr4nch wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 19, 2022 12:57 am

i have been researching these myself lately. from what i can gather, the z33/g35 brembo's are bolt on once you drill out the mounting holes on the spindles to 14mm. for me, it's either going that route with used or reman'd calipers, or going new cts-v 4 piston brembo's with adapter brackets. the cost difference is only around $60 between the two, both setups will use the same z33/g35 brembo rotors. i'm leaning more towards the cts-v setup only because they are brand new calipers vs used/reman calipers and the cost difference is very minimal.

That's what it's looking like. I believe the S-chassis/Z32 calipers are M10X1.25 and the Z33 Brembos are M12x1.25 so another option would be to use a threaded insert like >>this<< in the Z33 calipers, and use some Loctite to ensure it doesn't come loose. I don't know I'd feel comfortable doing that but, something to consider if you absolutely didn't want to drill the knuckles.


Those are M12x1.25 on the outer threads and M10x1.25 on the inner. I don't know what the material is. I'd be MORE inclined to use a locking threaded insert if I went that route but, yeah it looks like the calipers fit and align with minimal work either way.

Is it M14 though? am I off on that scale and the Z32/S are M12 and Z33 M14?

*Edit* Here's the link I was thinking about it. The pics are dead but if this is right the user drilled their spindle/knuckles with a 1/2" drill bit and that converts to an M12.

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.as ... tSearch=45

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 19, 2022 6:47 am

What would you guys do for rear brakes? I imagine you'd be extremely front bias after the swap... can an adjustable proportioning valve take up the difference?

The brakes seem to be working just fine on this setup. Granted they're Z32 front calipers and rear but swapping to Z33 front calipers is only going to improve the pad to rotor contact area here I think. For me, having the ability to adjust bias with this setup is what I'll be leaning on but I don't know for the stock BMC what you'd do.

I'd like to think that the rear Z32 setup is going to be just fine with good pads. There are some places that do full-on Wilwood upgrades for everything but I like being able to go to the Advance/OReally and buy parts (Except for my BMC now I guess...)

If you drill the hubs out, you can never go back. Use timesert inserts, I did the conversion on my z32 last year. Here is some info:
Note that Z33 brembos are M14x1.5 and NOT M14x1.25
http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/f ... x-hub.html

itsa300zx wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 24, 2022 11:16 am

If you drill the hubs out, you can never go back. Use timesert inserts, I did the conversion on my z32 last year. Here is some info:
Note that Z33 brembos are M14x1.5 and NOT M14x1.25
http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/f ... x-hub.html

Great info, thanks!

So I've been chipping away at this the last couple of weekends and I finally got her back off the jackstands and drove it last night.

I went with the black energy suspension bushings. After looking at the directions/videos I determined that I needed to drive out the sleeves on the front 2 mounts and the rear diff bushings, and just clean the rubber out of the rear 2 mounts but leave the sleeves there. Everything fit up perfectly with the bushings. I'd highly recommend getting a few sizes of wire-wheels and a good drill, it helped out with the process immensely as I had to clean the rears as well as the 'cups' for the diff bushing and my drill made short messy work of it.

It was a real pita dropping the subframe, getting the diff out, and back in on the ground. It was all worth it in the end. Ca18det_boy had a set of old collars lying around that I tossed in maybe, 2 years ago? The OEM bushings were already shot at this point but it sure didn't do any favors to the overall NVH on the car. Here's how it started:




Yeah, little out there.


Doing those rear diff mounts was a pain. I used a drill and drilled around the cup and then used my hacksaw to notch the collar without damaging the frame.


All cleaned up and ready to go back together.

Yeah I realize that the brake shields are different. The used brake shield I had when I did the Z32 brake conversion was pretty mauled on the passenger side and that was the only way to go about it at the time. I have a BNIB OEM one that will go on when I redo the rest of the rear suspension components. Looking at a full GKtech rear setup and it's actually pretty decently priced as a kit.


What I didnt expect was a reduction in NVH at idle. she seemed to idle noticeably smoother which I guess makes sense since the drivetrain can't transfer as much through the rear (I guess I am running a 1 piece steel driveshaft.)


I didnt manage to get pics because we've had a heatwave here over the past week but I installed the rear Progress A/S bar while I was at everything and set endlinks the same way I did on the front.

I somehow have never done rear subframe bushings in a 240. I probably just jinxed myself and mine will go out this week :/

Funny. I do not want to do that again for a long time. Big improvement over the collars though

So, I'm driving about 12 hours to Deals Gap/Tail of the dragon this fall and I've always lamented that I don't have a great way to secure stuff in the trunk. Would also be nice to tie stuff down for when I go to the track (floor jack, tools, etc.) So I got to brainstorming.


I had a spare that came with the car but it's DEFINITELY not OEM. I've got AAA so... why not build myself a custom storage setup under the sub-floor?! I'll toss an air compressor and some plugs in there and that should be good enough.




I've got it framed out, now I just need to run a metal bar across the middle that I can shape to fasten to the spare tire bolt and hold everything nice and stationary. I have a couple of canvas tool rolls on their way too and I'll secure those to the sides of the frame with some nylon straps. Plenty of room under there for a great on-the-road tool kit and some generic spares parts (belts cable ties, etc...) And the best part is I won't even lose any trunk space over it all.



Final product!



I also discovered that M5 rivnuts fit perfectly in the trim holes so I have some anchors to secure stuff with (my go-bag in this case)



voila!

I'll get some pics of the 100% finished product when I get the tool rolls here and finalize placement and the kit buildout.

Kinda makes me wish I made the bed of my truck on hinges, and just bolted it down to the spare tire section instead of welding the whole thing in.... but I also did it for strength so maybe not.
I'll have to get some pictures of my D rings and tie downs. They rock.

When are you going to the dragon? We have a NICO meet there every year.

Ca18detboy and I are meeting up there in September.

That would be awesome to see. I wanted to try and stick as close to the OEM+ look as possible here.