nsport . .. "really complete kit?"

Post by **Former_240_s14** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

nsport stage 1 kit

I know it says its a complete kit and all, and I have done a search for this but I haven't got a straight answer without getting confused, "cause I am a lil slow, jk". Does the kit come with all the necessary electrical components. I mean when I am about to install this do I have to buy ANYTHING else, and I don't care how big or small it may be. Thanks guys.

Rubin

Post by **Wolf240SX** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

You will not have to buy anything except for guages.I got my kit about a month ago and the only thing I had to buy were some brass connectors for my fuel lines to hookup a fuel pressure gauge but that was it. I also bought a boost gauge and air/fuel ratio guages but they have nothing to do with the turbo kit itself.

Post by **Former_240_s14** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Sweet, thanks for the info. How do you like your ride now??? Did you install it yourself? If so give me some info if you don't mind. Thanks for the reply.

Post by **Night** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Wolf240SX wrote:You will not have to buy anything except for guages.I got my kit about a month ago and the only thing I had to buy were some brass connectors for my fuel lines to hookup a fuel pressure gauge but that was it. I also bought a boost gauge and air/fuel ratio guages but they have nothing to do with the turbo kit itself.

when you installed it how you hook up the down pipe i am getting the kit in dec and i need to know

Post by **Former_240_s14** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Also what is a wastegate? I always see a wastegate and bov being the same damn thing. I know it sounds dumb, but no one I know around here has a turbo "well at least a respectable turbo" that I know of.

Post by **C-Kwik** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Former_240_s14 wrote:Also what is a wastegate? I always see a wastegate and bov being the same damn thing. I know it sounds dumb, but no one I know around here has a turbo "well at least a respectable turbo" that I know of.

The BOV and wastegates perform a similar function of bypassing air, but for two very different reasons. The BOV sits in the intake side and is designed to release pressurized air from the intake stream when you close the throttle. This helps to reduce shock to the turbo's bearings and shaft from a pressure wave being sent back to the turbo from when you close the throttle. It uses a vacuum signal line from the manifold that detects when the pressure changes. Typically, when the negative pressure or vacuum from the manifold and the pressure in the intake stream is enough to overcome the BOV's spring, then it opens.

Wastegates sit on the exhaust side before the turbo, usually on the manifold. Sometimes they are integrated with the turbo. The purpose of the wastegate is to control boost. It obtains a signal line from anywhere in the intake, depending on what kind of response you want. It uses the same principle as a BOV, but it responds to positive pressure as opposed to negative pressure. Some are adjustable, some are not. Depending on the spring rate, it will open up at a set boost level. This allows air to bypass the turbine of the turbo once the desired boost is obtained.

I recommend you buy a book called 'Maximum Boost' by Corky Bell. It is easy to understand as he keeps physics terminology to a minimum and explains the ins and outs about turbocharging very well. I'd say most people who know their stuff about turbos started by reading it...

Post by **S13Ka24e** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Former_240_s14 wrote:Also what is a wastegate? I always see a wastegate and bov being the same damn thing. I know it sounds dumb, but no one I know around here has a turbo "well at least a respectable turbo" that I know of.

A wastegate alows exhaust gas to by-pass the trubo so the turbo does't keep on spooling. To control the waste gate you need a boost controler. Let say for instance the boost controler is a float in a tank of water and the float is connected to the drain. Lets say this tank it 5 gal. big. Now I start to add 1 gal and min. The flot now goes up to where it is pulling the drain up to where it drains at 1 gal per min. Now i start to add 3 gal per min. The float now drains at 3 gal per min. So lets say your boost controler is set at 10 psi when the turbo starts to make more that 10 psi the waste gate opens in perportion with the boost being made. So you will stay at 10 psi of boost. That is basicly how a boost controler and a waste gate work. The part which most people don't undersand it that now since you are not making more boost why do you need a BOV. THe BOV comes in only when you change gears. I know the HKS BOV SSQV is actuated by pressure alterations only so it feels when the pressure changes from changes gears or closing the throttle and lets off the boost. Hope that helps.

Post by **Former_240_s14** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Thanks for all your help guys....

Post by **maxpsi** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Night wrote:when you installed it how you hook up the down pipe i am getting the kit in dec and i need to know

Most all of the kits downpipes bolt right up to the stock exhaust below the firewall.

Post by **Wolf240SX** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

the NSport down pipe is a 3" pipe that bolts directly to the turbo and runs down between the steering linkage and the block. The pipe also has a smaller pipe shooting out the side of it. This smaller pipe is there for the wastgate. It is your option to run a pipe from the wastegate into the exhaust to dispose of the gasses properly or you can weld it shut and leave the wastegate open(I left mine open). Depending on your preference. I heard you get better performance if you leave it open. I plan on making a pipe for it and running it down closer to the ground. Right now it is loud, all I can hear when driving is this loud air sound and I do not like it but if you like the whoosh sound of air leave it open. Also back to the down pipe you will have to get a pipe made that bolts to the down pipe and then bolts to the catalytic converter. I took mine to Midas and it cost me $150 for a 2.5" pipe. I did this just so I could drive it I plan on getting a mandrel bent 3" pipe once I get my exhast system. I still have the stock exhaust. Hope this answers you question about the down pipe.

As far as performance I currently have the stage 1 kit running 6psi off the wastegate and my best time so far has been 14.3 at 105mph.

Post by **Wolf240SX** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

I install everyhting on my car so I kinow it inside and out. If anybody has any questions regarding the s13. I will be more than happy to answer them to the best of my knowledge.

Just installed today redid back window crapet p[eice in pleathur as well as new pleather headliner and new stereo system.

Post by **Night** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Wolf240SX thanks for your info i was looking at the kit and i couldnt fig how the down pipe works and do you think you could use a sr20 down pipe for the s13s i have no clue what it looks like. i am getting my kit at the end of dec and i am getting the pistons and rods too so i might need some infor when i install it if you dont mind

Website · Post by **badass240sx** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

OoOoOO Wolf, I am going to be installing my turbo myself soon as well, and had a couple concerns. First off, I planned to get some 370cc injectors from an SR20 which I heard drop right in...how hard is the install, and what all does it consist of? Secondly, I hear one of the hardest parts of the install is the oil and return lines...why is that?

Also, I was reading a step by step install for like an integra, and they used a trick to bypass the MAF Sensor, apparently it was a matter of using brass "T"s and check valves...see the attached image below...would this work in our case?

Website · Post by **badass240sx** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Heres the clip where they talk about the MAFS bypass method:

"Construct the MAP sensor check valve system just like in the picture. Now, the end with "T", hammer that into the hole thats on the throttle body where you removed the MAP sensor. The other end, connect it to the MAP sensor nipple. You can zip tie the MAP sensor or just let it hang. But if you have some money laying around, you can buy a MISSING MAP LINK. They cost $65 on average and work just like the check valves but give the car a more CLEANER look. However, they are costly. "

Post by **Wolf240SX** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

The injectors if they are a drop in set up they should have no problem going in. How ever the question is do the injector harnesses plug right in if they do this will be a snap.

To remove the plugs I believe they simply push into the fuel rail. I have not removed mine yet as I am still waiting for my 385cc injectors to come in the mail. About the MAF I will have to get back to you on that

Post by **Wolf240SX** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

the oil return line for a turbo is a line that hooks up to the turbo and runs to the oil pan. It is just what it says a "oil return line" it return the oil from the turbo back to the pan. It is not hard to hook up if you have access to a welder. basically NSport sends you a bung that you have to weld into your oil pan which the line can screw into. Once you get the oil pan welded just simply screw one end of the line to the pan and the other end to the turbo. Simple as that.

Check out NSport .com and look at their intallation pictures theay ahve a picture of the line and how it hooks up to the oil pan.

Website · Post by **badass240sx** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Well yeah, I've seen the pictures before, and have a good idea as to what needs to be done, im just not very confident in getting the damn oil pan off...I've been told it required either dropping the front suspension or crossmember to get the oil pan off. Then I heard you could get it off by just jacking the motor up 3 inches after removing the two mounts. I'm not feeling very confident on this part of the install at all. Maybe I can have a shop do this portion of the install or something...I dunno.

Post by **Wolf240SX** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

no dropping the pan is easy. All you have to do is drop the front sway bar, loosen the top motor mount nut on each side. Then jack up the engine until it almost comes off the studs. Then simply remove the 12 10mm bolts that hold the oil pan on. After that remove the oil strainer, 1 10mm bolt on the side bracket and 2 12mm bolts holding the strainer on. Then simply slide the oil pan out the front of the motor. You will have to do some maneuvering around the fan shroud and transmission cooling lines but that is easy. I recomend if you don't have any go buy a set of ramps. You can pick them up for about 15 bucks. They are wonderfull for working under the car.

Post by **Wolf240SX** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

oh your question about the Mass Air Flow sensor. The thing you were reading about an Integra does not apply to us. They were talkng about an M. A. P. (Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor). We don't have those. What the MAP is, is a vaccume that measures the pressure in the manifold it is not an MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor). Now About bypassing the Mass Air Flow Sensor you can buy a Super A. F. C. which will bypass the MAF but these things run about $1500. So if you have the cash by all means get one they do give you better performance if you want to spend the money.

Post by **Zebrahead** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Wolf240SX wrote:As far as performance I currently have the stage 1 kit running 6psi off the wastegate and my best time so far has been 14.3 at 105mph.

A 14.3? That seems kinda weak considering you're boosting around 240hp. Is your car tuned correctly? Is it driven correctly? Stock SR20s run ~14.6s and that's with 190-200rwhp. You've got a ton more than that.

Nick.

Post by **Wolf240SX** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

I still ahve the stock injectors wich were screwed up before i put in the turbo and my car weighs 3600lbs and it is an automatic. I still have not worked out the launch yet seeing as i only have front brakes becuase i belw out my rears. Yes I know I have problems but it takes time and money and I am working on it.

Post by **Wolf240SX** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

once i get my bigger injectors and get the brakes fixed so I can lget a better launch I expect to be running in the low 13's high 12's. The injectors are in the mail.

Post by **Former_240_s14** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

So what should a bone stock "except plugs, wires, and cone filter" do with the nsport kit added?? I am guessing mid to high 13's????

Website · Post by **badass240sx** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Depends on the driver, really really does. A good driver would be able to pull mid 13's...where as on the other hand, your average joe blow will get low 14s maybe.

Website · Post by **badass240sx** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

Also another huge contributing factor would be how well it was tuned...

Post by **s14mc** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

one stupid question: the oil return line is for routing the oil back to the pan....but where does the oil come from? im new to turbo...

Post by **ChickenBoo** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

s14mc wrote:one stupid question: the oil return line is for routing the oil back to the pan....but where does the oil come from? im new to turbo...

It's for the CA, but you get the idea.

Post by **Night** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

s14mc wrote:one stupid question: the oil return line is for routing the oil back to the pan....but where does the oil come from? im new to turbo...

go to nsport.com and they have install pics thay have a good pic of where the oil comes from in there kit. that might help you

Post by **s14mc** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 4:18 pm

so basically the turbo system uses the engine oil to lubicate and cooling? i always thought that the oil pan and oil pump is for gas delivery....haha

sorry if it sounds dumb again

nsport . .. "really complete kit?"

nsport . .. "really complete kit?"

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