Nsport Kit - What's involved

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
PMan_S13
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Before I begin, I have been searching so please don't give me that ramble ;)

I've been reading up on this kit and how it was installed. For the most part it seems to be straight bolt on (besides the oil lines) But I have seen some comments about "reroute", "cut", "move", etc... Now what I'm looking for is one straight forward answer as to what will need to be done to get everything to fit right.

Am I going to find myself hacking through the fender walls to get the intercooler plumbing to fight?

Will the A/C (or anything for that matter) need to be removed/relocated?

And will the intercooler fit in the space in front of the radiator without more than some proper positioning?

I have drilled many holes for buddies whose kits said "bolt-on"...


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Movingviolation240
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you will have to cut the front bumper up a bit to make the IC fit, you will also have to hack up the front end to route the intercooler pipes.

There is also a strong posibility you'll have to run an NPT tap into the oil pressure sender bung in order to get the 'T' to thread into it.

PMan_S13
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Movingviolation240 wrote:There is also a strong posibility you'll have to run an NPT tap into the oil pressure sender bung in order to get the 'T' to thread into it.


Hmmm... This is one I have not yet encountered. I'm glad I asked because I have no idea how to set that up.

What would be involved if it needs this? Could it be as simple as an adapter? Or will it need to be drilled/tapped/welded/bodged/frankensteined... whatever, to get it to work?

When you say "possibility" do you come from experience with this kit in particular (or what you have heard of it), or from turbo systems in general?

Thanks for the info

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Movingviolation240
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Every Nissan block I've worked on I've had to do that too, but others never have the problem. It's pretty easy, all you do is run the tap though to open up the threads a hair and your good to go.

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erich
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Yea, the oil pressure sending unit is a British standard pipe thread (BSPT) and I believe it is aslo tapered. I just ran a tap through it for my oil feed for the turbo.

erich

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EZcheese15
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Yeah, it's not difficult. Basically you are just adjusting the threads by a tiny bit so the fitting will screw into the block. Threads are very similar so the tap goes in without a ton of force. The only thing you will need is the tap. Which I want to say is a 1/8" NPT. Somebody correct me on that if I'm wrong, trying to picture it in my head how big it is.

PMan_S13
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Sounds good.. doesn't seem like there will be much problem getting it put in.

Now about the I/C. How much am I going to have to hack to get it to fit? Is it just a little or am I going to make it's structure unstable by taking the whole bottom out? If anyone has a picture of how they put the I/C in with the original bumper I would be greatly appreciative.

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EZcheese15
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PMan_S13 wrote:Sounds good.. doesn't seem like there will be much problem getting it put in.

Now about the I/C. How much am I going to have to hack to get it to fit? Is it just a little or am I going to make it's structure unstable by taking the whole bottom out? If anyone has a picture of how they put the I/C in with the original bumper I would be greatly appreciative.


If you look at the opening below the main support on the bumper cover (the main central opening at the bottom), you will have to cut about 3" off of the inside edge of that opening, all the way down the length of the opening. That is pretty much it.

PMan_S13
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EZcheese15 wrote:If you look at the opening below the main support on the bumper cover (the main central opening at the bottom), you will have to cut about 3" off of the inside edge of that opening, all the way down the length of the opening. That is pretty much it.


So, if the opening under the bumper was to be considered an open mouth, the the cut would be on the lower "jaw" on the side nearest the engine? And that cut would be all the way through, correct? Like, if I raised the car, the intercooler could be seen from underneath through the hole I have cut. Is that how it all goes? It must be larger than the picture indicates ;)

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EZcheese15
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PMan_S13 wrote:So, if the opening under the bumper was to be considered an open mouth, the the cut would be on the lower "jaw" on the side nearest the engine? And that cut would be all the way through, correct? Like, if I raised the car, the intercooler could be seen from underneath through the hole I have cut. Is that how it all goes? It must be larger than the picture indicates ;)


Yeah, what u said. Sounds about right.

Chaotic1
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anyone have any idea what tool would be used to do the cutting? is this something i'd want a professional to do if i decided to install a turbo? do most of you install your own turbos or do you take them to shops?

sigh... i know a guy who's putting a turbo into his car and now i'm getting turbo-envy...

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EZcheese15
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Chaotic1 wrote:anyone have any idea what tool would be used to do the cutting? is this something i'd want a professional to do if i decided to install a turbo? do most of you install your own turbos or do you take them to shops?

sigh... i know a guy who's putting a turbo into his car and now i'm getting turbo-envy...


You can do it yourself. If you have a dremel, that works, but you'll melt bits like chocolate. But it works.

Also, if you have access to air tools, you can use a die grinder. Or, you can also use a drill to make some holes and use a hacksaw blade to cut (after you drilled through some places). The key thing is, the more patient you are the better it will look. Ofcourse, you can use anything else to cut too....that's just why comes to mind for me.

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WDRacing
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Why not have the piping come out under the battery?? That way you just make one hole. Not sure about all the frame work, but that sounds like what I would do. Perhaps move the battery to the trunk.Oh and use a SawsAll(reciprocating saw). I love those things.

WD

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WDRacing wrote:Why not have the piping come out under the battery?? That way you just make one hole. Not sure about all the frame work, but that sounds like what I would do. Perhaps move the battery to the trunk.Oh and use a SawsAll(reciprocating saw). I love those things.

WD


Because the side you have to cut up is the side without the battery :) You have to get two pipes through there (turbo to IC and the intake). And the MAF sensor will end up right near there too, so it needs clearence. That part of the installation is the biggest pain, next to removing the oil pan to drill for the oil return line off the turbo.

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WDRacing
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Ahh...I understand. Sounds ultra gay to me. I'd use a different I/C then.

WD

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WDRacing wrote:Ahh...I understand. Sounds ultra gay to me. I'd use a different I/C then.

WD


I don't know if a different one would help. The reason it is such a pain is because there is lack of space with the OE bumper. Any other I/C would probably have just as much difficulty, unless you went side-mount, but it looks like it could be equally as difficult. (And it has obvious disadvantages)


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