Now I need some advice on toe/camber/etc.

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Bosrudorfer
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Ok guys you helped me with understanding coilover preload. Now I need some advice on what toe/camber/etc. I should run.

Car will be for 99% street with occasional auto-x.

- KTS Coilovers (no preload) w/ camber plates

- 17x9 +20 all around

- 235/45/17 G-Force sports

- SPL V2 tension rods

- Stock front and rear sway bars

- Fender roll in the rear

Right now the back has alot of camber (I believe around -2) and the front has very little (around -.08). The car is lowered with a finger gap all around.

In the rear I would like to pull camber out as far as possible (what's the farthest stock will allow?), then match the front with the same camber as the rear (if -2 is the farthest then I want the front to be around -2) but on the passenger side I will rub so I'll need the toe moved back (right now the front wheels are far up front).

What should I be looking at?

Rear? Camber? Toe?

Front? Camber? Toe?

*** Also the front tires are getting tire wear on the outer rim, maybe front contact with the fender.....

Thanks!


naed240sx
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First of all, I should mention that 235/45 is a really tall tire size and you would be much better off with 235/40s. You should also be running a grippier compound that works better with coils.

Running the same front camber as rear is stupid. S chassis have terrible front camber curves, but great camber curves in the rear. Because of this, you should run more static front camber than you would in the rear.

Im gonna give you specs for great street handling that won't wear tires.

Front:

Toe: stockCamber: -2 to -2.2Castor:8 to 9 degrees

Rear:

Toe: stockCamber: -1.3 to -1.6

Unless you are only lowered like 1.8 inches in the rear, you will need aftermarket rucas to be able to acheive these settings.

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Bosrudorfer
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naed240sx wrote:First of all, I should mention that 235/45 is a really tall tire size and you would be much better off with 235/40s. You should also be running a grippier compound that works better with coils.
What do you mean by gripper compound?
naed240sx wrote:Running the same front camber as rear is stupid. S chassis have terrible front camber curves, but great camber curves in the rear. Because of this, you should run more static front camber than you would in the rear.
Noted. Thanks!
naed240sx wrote:Im gonna give you specs for great street handling that won't wear tires.

Front:

Toe: stockCamber: -2 to -2.2Castor:8 to 9 degrees

Rear:

Toe: stockCamber: -1.3 to -1.6.
For the front where would the toe/castor place the wheel? In the middle, farther back or front? Because if I run -2 camber I will 100% rub so I'll need to move the wheel back.
naed240sx wrote:Unless you are only lowered like 1.8 inches in the rear, you will need aftermarket rucas to be able to acheive these settings.
I'm more than 1.8, I would say about 2"- 2.5". I am near tucking in the rear.

naed240sx
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Bosrudorfer wrote:What do you mean by gripper compound?
The tires you have are decent, but far from optimal for best handling with the stiff rates that coilovers use. Softer, more race inspired tires like Azenis 615, Hankook RS2, kumho MX, or even better, more expensive tires will do more for your car than any other part.
Bosrudorfer wrote:For the front where would the toe/castor place the wheel? In the middle, farther back or front? Because if I run -2 camber I will 100% rub so I'll need to move the wheel back.
I don't understand your question. Toe won't really change how the wheel sits in the wheel well.

Castor will effectively lengthen wheelbase and end up causing the wheel to sit slightly more forward in the wheel well, but not significantly.

Wait, where are you rubbing? Camber shouldn't really cause you to rub. It's mostly lowness and lots of castor that can cause issues.

If you are rubbing the wheel tubs, hammer the wheel tub with a sledge hammer where it is rubbing, then paint over the spot with black paint. If the paint rubs off, hammer more, then spray again. Repeat untill you don't rub anymore. I'm not joking, this is how everybody gets away with running wide tires on low cars.

Ohh, and since you have an s14, wheel and tire clearance is extremely easy. You have so much more room up front than us s13 guys. S13 guys have to hammer the crap out of the front tubs to get low at all on wheels 9" wide and larger.
Bosrudorfer wrote:I'm more than 1.8, I would say about 2"- 2.5". I am near tucking in the rear.
I'm pretty sure you won't be able to run anything less than - 2 rear camber. Either live with that or get rucas.

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Bosrudorfer
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Cool that makes lots of sense. Yep its the passenger wheel tub and yes I did use a sledgehammer. Right now with the camber as is in the front its ok but if I increase it then it starts to rub. I'll try to dent it in more. I remember him setting lots of castor so my wheels do sit very forward in the wheel well.

What rucas would you recommend? SPL's look nice but it's $300 and I dont know if its worth it for a few camber points.

If -2 is the max in the rear then I'll do:

Front:

Toe: stockCamber: -.2.75Castor:8 to 9 degrees

Rear:

Toe: stockCamber: -2

Thanks! I really appreciate it =D

naed240sx
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Bosrudorfer wrote:Cool that makes lots of sense. Yep its the passenger wheel tub and yes I did use a sledgehammer. Right now with the camber as is in the front its ok but if I increase it then it starts to rub. I'll try to dent it in more. I remember him setting lots of castor so my wheels do sit very forward in the wheel well.
Yeah, well your current camber settings are totally crappy. What are you rubbing anyway?
Bosrudorfer wrote:What rucas would you recommend? SPL's look nice but it's $300 and I dont know if its worth it for a few camber points.
SPL. There is not middleground. You either decide you need rucas and buy quality, or you don't. You can probably get some used ones for cheaper if you look around.
Bosrudorfer wrote:If -2 is the max in the rear then I'll do:

Front:

Toe: stockCamber: -.2.75Castor:8 to 9 degrees

Rear:

Toe: stockCamber: -2

Thanks! I really appreciate it =D
Don't run that much front camber. It will wear your tires, and won't promote good handling with the tires that you have.

Just try to get the toe to around the range that I said. If you can't, either live with it or get the rucas(preferable)

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Bosrudorfer
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I'm trying to find a picture of a S14 wheel well to show where I'm rubbing...

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Bosrudorfer
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Awww screw it, I've already put in tons of $ into suspension so whats another $300? LOL

I'll order the rucas tonight and then can finally say the suspension is done after the alignment.

naed240sx
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Bosrudorfer wrote:I'll order the rucas tonight and then can finally say the suspension is done after the alignment.
Ahhh if only it were than simple haha.

Soon you will want rear roe rods, tie rods, a good differential and sways as well. It's never done.

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ArticDragon192
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Suggested by Hiro's a local race alignment shop:

Front:Camber: -2.5° to -3°Castor: 7.00Toe: 0

Rear: -1.0°Toe: 1.0 total

Remember, toe wears out tires more than camber. You'll be fine with up to -3° of camber up front and tire life.

gabossie
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I personally run

Front-Caster: 7Camber: -2.5Toe: 0

Rear-Camber: -2Toe: 0

It's important to test it out and adjust based on your own findings and desires though. No two cars are the same.

naed240sx
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ArticDragon192 wrote:Suggested by Hiro's a local race alignment shop:Remember, toe wears out tires more than camber. You'll be fine with up to -3° of camber up front and tire life.
3 degrees of camber will affect tire life. With stock toe, it will wear the insides. In order to combat the uneven wear you would have to run more toe in, which would result in faster, but even wear. 3 degrees of camber also isn't gonna be very helpful unless you are running some very good tires, and keep in mind that the settings I am giving are for a street setup. I would be reccomending more if it were a track car.

And 7 degrees of castor? That's LESS than stock on a lowered car. Running lower static camber allows you to keep a fairly flat footprint for great straightline braking. From there you can run more castor to get the camber increase when you need it.

It's pretty much a given that at least 8 degrees of castor is great on an s chassis. My car has far more front grip after installing SPL TC rods and aligning to around 8.2.


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