What do you mean by gripper compound?naed240sx wrote:First of all, I should mention that 235/45 is a really tall tire size and you would be much better off with 235/40s. You should also be running a grippier compound that works better with coils.
Noted. Thanks!naed240sx wrote:Running the same front camber as rear is stupid. S chassis have terrible front camber curves, but great camber curves in the rear. Because of this, you should run more static front camber than you would in the rear.
For the front where would the toe/castor place the wheel? In the middle, farther back or front? Because if I run -2 camber I will 100% rub so I'll need to move the wheel back.naed240sx wrote:Im gonna give you specs for great street handling that won't wear tires.
Front:
Toe: stockCamber: -2 to -2.2Castor:8 to 9 degrees
Rear:
Toe: stockCamber: -1.3 to -1.6.
I'm more than 1.8, I would say about 2"- 2.5". I am near tucking in the rear.naed240sx wrote:Unless you are only lowered like 1.8 inches in the rear, you will need aftermarket rucas to be able to acheive these settings.
The tires you have are decent, but far from optimal for best handling with the stiff rates that coilovers use. Softer, more race inspired tires like Azenis 615, Hankook RS2, kumho MX, or even better, more expensive tires will do more for your car than any other part.Bosrudorfer wrote:What do you mean by gripper compound?
I don't understand your question. Toe won't really change how the wheel sits in the wheel well.Bosrudorfer wrote:For the front where would the toe/castor place the wheel? In the middle, farther back or front? Because if I run -2 camber I will 100% rub so I'll need to move the wheel back.
I'm pretty sure you won't be able to run anything less than - 2 rear camber. Either live with that or get rucas.Bosrudorfer wrote:I'm more than 1.8, I would say about 2"- 2.5". I am near tucking in the rear.
Yeah, well your current camber settings are totally crappy. What are you rubbing anyway?Bosrudorfer wrote:Cool that makes lots of sense. Yep its the passenger wheel tub and yes I did use a sledgehammer. Right now with the camber as is in the front its ok but if I increase it then it starts to rub. I'll try to dent it in more. I remember him setting lots of castor so my wheels do sit very forward in the wheel well.
SPL. There is not middleground. You either decide you need rucas and buy quality, or you don't. You can probably get some used ones for cheaper if you look around.Bosrudorfer wrote:What rucas would you recommend? SPL's look nice but it's $300 and I dont know if its worth it for a few camber points.
Don't run that much front camber. It will wear your tires, and won't promote good handling with the tires that you have.Bosrudorfer wrote:If -2 is the max in the rear then I'll do:
Front:
Toe: stockCamber: -.2.75Castor:8 to 9 degrees
Rear:
Toe: stockCamber: -2
Thanks! I really appreciate it =D
Ahhh if only it were than simple haha.Bosrudorfer wrote:I'll order the rucas tonight and then can finally say the suspension is done after the alignment.
3 degrees of camber will affect tire life. With stock toe, it will wear the insides. In order to combat the uneven wear you would have to run more toe in, which would result in faster, but even wear. 3 degrees of camber also isn't gonna be very helpful unless you are running some very good tires, and keep in mind that the settings I am giving are for a street setup. I would be reccomending more if it were a track car.ArticDragon192 wrote:Suggested by Hiro's a local race alignment shop:Remember, toe wears out tires more than camber. You'll be fine with up to -3° of camber up front and tire life.