Novice DIY injector replacement

[pouncer11]

ok guys here is the deal, my father (im only 17) is forcing me to have a shop replace my injector(s). they told me itd take them atleast 6 hours and id be charged 450 for labor and 140 a piece for the injectors. im a friggin highschool kid that makes minimum wage working on animals and side computer jobs, i cant pay that. I dont know anything about cars hardly either. So what im going to do is do them when he is at work one day. From what ive observed by removing that small panel in front of the intake manifold, the injectors are just below it and i can even get to a few as is. Does anyone want to give me a hand in guiding me through this and telling me where to get the cheapest injectors/best way to clean them. ill trade computer knowledge or something if you like idk, i really need to get the thing fixed. the car idles when it sits, rides rough at around 40 and 80 when accelerating, the car was serviced in october for a tune up from the dealership before i acquired it. The infiniti shop said injector four was bad, that was it. and before you hound me, i asked them and they said the chain guide has been taken car of. other than the injector, my car just needs a little tiny bit of bondo , pipes, and a door regulator. Engine First,

[maxnix]

they told me itd take them atleast 6 hours and id be charged 450 for labor and 140 a piece for the injectors. im a friggin highschool kid that makes minimum wage working on animals and side computer jobs, i cant pay that.

i asked them and they said the chain guide has been taken car of. other than the injector, my car just needs a little tiny bit of bondo , pipes, and a door regulator. Engine First,

Well, you may be 17, but I'm going to respond to you like a man. You have the wrong car. Read Q45tech's post about maintaining and rehabilitating a G50. It is merely an opportunity to invest another $3K - $6K to rehabilitate it then about $3K per year (saving what you don't spend for large items). If this is not within your means, you need to think about how to get out of the car.

First off, $140/injector is less than the best supplier of new at $173,

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

so these guys don't know with what they are dealing. Don't use them as they will cause more damage than they repair.

Ask them to verify in writing that the timing chain guides have been replace, all parts accounted for (none in sump), and the tensioners and oil pump chain were replaced. Ask them how they torqued the main bolt on the crankshaft (it requires 270 ft. lb.). If they say impact, run.

You need to download an FSM, you need to study it, you need to read the posts on under plenum hose and injector replacement. You will need around $600 -$800 in parts from Joe (without injecotrs) to begin to do the job correctly. It is not an afternoon's job for the novice, or for someone that does not have experience nor a good minimum tool set of metric sockets, wrenches, extensions, torque wrench, etc.

If you want to learn, and maybe enlist Dad or someone who has some equipment and skills, you can do it. But not in your present state of ignorance. Actually, even if you had the funds, even owning an older imported luxury V8 sedan is right now a little beyond your knowledge. But knowledge can be gained if one applies itself assiduously.

I am concerned about your car's condition in that no car "needs" bondo. If you think this is expensive, wait until you see what competent body work requires. It is not for the unskilled nor a non specialty shop based task. Experience and tools are paramount.

If you want to proceed, we can help, but you will have to start by educationg your self and dedicating some brain power to learning what you need to know.

Good luck.

Oh, most of us are high school graduates or more, so capitalization, complete sentences, and paragraphs don't scare us.

[Q451990]

This definitely isn't a "swap them in quick while my dad is at work" kind of job. #4 is buried under the intake plenum (big spider looking thing sitting on top of the engine) - and requires removing a lot of parts that need new gaskets before you put them back in. The cover you mentioned in your post only give you access to injectors 1 and 2.

Even experienced techs. occasionally mess up the job causing total engine failure by flooding a cylinder or two and hydrolocking it. The cheapest new injectors that I have found are on eBay. We don't know if they're truely OEM, but it appears that they may be. Look for Q45 Tech's post from last weekend... something like Q45Tech and Atlanta join the rest of the US.

If you're not mechanically inclined this isn't the first job that you want to tackle without at least doing some research and knowing what you're getting in to.

One of my first DIY jobs on the Q, right after my 100K warranty ran out was replacing a bad injector. But I had a lot of experience changing oil and other maintenence before that. Luckily, I had a garage full of my dad's tools and plenty of time to do the job...as well as his support to help me figure some things out. From what I know now - I was also lucky that I did everything right. I would probably be more afraid of the job now after hearing about some of the hydrolocking issues lately...

Good luck and welcome to NICO!

Heath

[Q45tech]

My $3,000 per year maint. and repair cost after spending $ 3,000- $9,000 for initial purchase defects are based on 50% labor and 50% parts at $85 per shop hour.

Unfortunately we seen similiar situations before, where a 17-25 year old talks someone into buying him a Q or a relative gives it to him or uses some savings to just take possesion and has no sources for repairs.

Even a used Civic cost $1200 per year and a V6 about $2100, so every cost is related to engine size and configuration.

What will you do if you trash the engine and need $4,000+ for replacement, or $3,000 for a transmission or $2,000 for common suspension faults or ac repair, or $1,000 for a driveshaft?

I have a 90 Q and access to expert labor [best in US] at a discount $40 per hour and parts at 30% discount and over $7,000 in collected good used parts AND my Q still costs me about $2,000 in cash every year.

Since 2002 when we did a $6,000 rehab it has cost $2,000 per year, always something. Just last week 2 injectors failed and 4 were replaced as insurance. It cost me $850 and would have cost a customer $1200 plus plenum hoses broken during removal [ I had none since the KS and harness and fuel hoses and under plenum hoses were just replaced last summer for $1200].

I had planned to do shock replacement this year which runs around $600 plus labor or $1,000. And of course $500 worth of new tires and and $800 worth of brakes and rotors.

So this year will cost ME about $3300.

You cannot escape the cost of parts.

Most trained experts on Q don't drive a Q because of the parts costs and the amount of free time it would take to maintain compared to some 4 cylinder FWD or pickup. These guys make $55k+ and cannot afford a 90Q with gasoline costing $3,000 - $4500 per year.

[lino]

Everything these guys just said is true. I bet that's not what you wanna hear or believe. I decided to buy my car because it was dealer maintained since new with full service records. I bought my car for too much, invested more than the purchase price in the first 2-3 months, sold another car I had to be able to continue fixing and maintaining the Q, spent more money, and continued to spend even more money, had many incredible people here help me out with parts that I needed, and still my car needs a few things and a lot more $$$. If I knew then what I know now, I would never have bought a Q, because it is simply an expense I don't need right now. I have owned many other cars and this one has been the absolute worst on my pocket. I hope you understand that everyone here is trying to help you and I'll tell you from experience that these guys are awesome people with sincere intentions and that have the knowledge and history to back up what they say.

If you find a way to do the job and decide to go ahead with it, here is a place that sells injectors that is recommended by Nico:

http://www.deatschwerks.com/ca...64_67

I wish you much luck

Btw I know you mentioned that you want to start working on the engine first and then deal with the bondo. I bought my car from Florida so that it would be rust free. If my car had rust, I would have a nervous breakdown. The thought of having to work on more than the mechanical part of the Q would be a nightmare not to mention the other problems that rust causes to a car. Rust always comes back. At least that's what I've noticed up here in Canada. Even the almighty Mercedes S Class cars are showing signs of rust as they are coming off 4 year leases up here. That's why I didn't buy a car locally. I was in the market for a pre-owned car and knew the only way to escape rust was to buy a southern car.

[Victor]

After reading this thread it scares me. I just helped my daughter pick out a 2000 Infiniti Q45T with 49,884 miles on it. She paid $8900 for it last month. Everything worked on it and the body looked in near perfect condition. The interior was also in excellent condition. We decided on it based upon reliability reports. I figured with the low mileage the car should go at least 50,000 miles more with little or no repairs. The previous owner had the car inspected at an Infiniti dealer (cost $157) just before he sold it and the only issues they found were the tension rods needed replacing, and one rear strut had a very small amount of leakage, and one drive belt needed replacing. I verified the inspection by calling Infiniti. If the car went 50,000 miles more before needing any major repair and then blew up I would figure we got our money's worth out of it. Does it seem reasonable to expect no major problems up to 100.000 miles on the odometer?As to the topic of this thread, if I were the young man I would stop right now before I sunk any more money into the car. I am assuming he bought the car for under $2000, at least thats what a 1990 would go for here in southern California with no rust on it.. If the car drives drive it into the ground while saving for something better. If not part it out or try to sell it as is. Looks like just replacing all the injectors will turn your $2000 car into one that cost you over $3000, and who knows what will go out on it next. BTW, how many miles does the car have on it?I have a 94 J30T with 191,500 miles on it which I bought used 4 years ago and have spend less than $150 on repairs and maintenance on it during that time, but only put 14,200 miles on it as I have other vehicles. Everything works on it but I know I should replace the shocks, and in another 18,000 miles I have to replace the timing belt. In another couple of months I should put two new front tires on, and there is a very slow leak out of one end of the power steering rack. But at this car's age if I should get some major problem that would cost over $1500 to fix I would just part it out or sell it as is, wouldn't even consider putting that much into the car.

[Victor]

One thing you might try is see if you can find a slightly wrecked first generation Q45 and buy it as a source of parts if you have a place to store it. I see J30s and q45s quite often that someone is selling for between $650 and a $1000 as a parts car. I would buy a parts car to go along with everyone of my vehicles if I had a place to keep them. Unfortunately in my neighborhood the neighbors would start complaining if I had a driveway full of parts cars. But thats what I did when I restored a G20, had my own parts store sitting in my driveway. Unfortuneately just after I fixed it up my daughter drove it to high school and parked it and some kid showing off his drifting skills lost control and wiped out the parked car.

[maxnix]

But at this car's age if I should get some major problem that would cost over $1500 to fix I would just part it out or sell it as is, wouldn't even consider putting that much into the car.

Better start your funeral arrangements. I am sure unless the previous owner was aggressive about AT maintenance, your AT is on life support.

One thing you might try is see if you can find a slightly wrecked first generation Q45 and buy it as a source of parts if you have a place to store it.

First, he doesn't yet have the skills to repair it. Second, in his case, injectors are a wear itiem, and unless one has a whole lot of extra time, one doesn't want to waste it by installing used parts with an unknown history if they are wear items, like injectors.

[pouncer11]

I wrote that while doing some online courses and wasn't so concerned with grammar but anyhow I'm A+ certified to work on computers as well as half way to a ccna so I don't mind learning if it interests me. I never planned on opening the car up blind either. I can do brakes, oil changes, and some other stuff like change an alternator or radiator,just new to nissan is all. Well nissan and feul injectors, most of the cars I've worked with were carb. I don't mind dropping cash in it either, I spent a good 1200 fixing my van, but obviously Id rather not spend any more than need be. I just thought I'd ask the experts before trying to embark completely on my own. Also I have every metric and standard tool you could ask for. And the rust is a penny sized spot in the rear left wheel well that can be easily taken care of. I'm not concerned with it looking perfect just so long as it doesn't get worse. I don't want to be looked at like an idiot or unwilling to listen. I just wanna learn about the car and get it running.

Look I just asked for help getting the damn car apart not a bunch of discouraging posts. I just signed a contract with a network management place anyhow starts June first and 15 an hour pays for college etc. So I'm not worried about paying right now I can save up or whatever. And yeah brakes and suspension and filters and little things add up. I'm fixing the car. So can we get on with the show. Infiniti will do it for 400 bucks labor if I help the guy and I'll buy my own injectors. Its either that or save and learn with the help of a few experienced auto tech friends. Yes I've also considered a totaled q45 for parts

[goody90q45]

ok guys here is the deal, my father (im only 17) is forcing me to have a shop replace my injector(s)....... im a friggin highschool kid that makes minimum wage working on animals and side computer jobs, i cant pay that. I dont know anything about cars hardly either.

Now that you've clarified a few things maybe you can handle getting to #4 injector. Your initial intro made it sound like the only tools you had fit in your pocket protector.

With the proper tools (which it sounds like you have) and some experience wrenching (got that too) you should be able to do this. Let me add that you ought to spend a lot of hours reading up on removing the plenum so you understand it all before you start and if you do go ahead with this be organized enough so that you can get everything back together the first time.

There's plenty of good info here on NICO once you figure out the Search function and Q45.org is also very helpful. Plan on spending 5-7 hours since this is your first time and don't be surprised to find some cracked hoses that the stealership will not have in stock.

If it was me I would verify that #4 fuel injector is the bad one and not #2. You own a voltmeter so ohming them won't take you 5 minutes.

Welcome to NICO. Sorry for the bad first thread but your introduction made you vulnerable to attack. Do your homework (search) and ask questions and you'll get a lot of great help here. Good luck.

[pouncer11]

Thank you sir for the help. I am very experienced with electronics as far as inductance and series-parallel circuits and all that stuff goes, so anything with a multimeter or wires is friendly. I have been studying the car and taking baby steps into going under the hood. Inside the car i fixed the light on the climate control with 15minutes and a soldering iron and put a new head unit inside no prob. In previous posts the guys mentioned hydro locking and gaskets that need replacing when i remove the intake system. Also, yes, i have a print out of the repairs needed, its just four but i intend on replacing at least four of them if im gonna spend 6+ hours tearing the damn thing apart. Ive got a couple friends that have done fuel injectors on american cars who will want to help as well.

I came off as an idiot because i had just finished 8 1/2 hours of work and was finishing an xml course. Any help is appreciated. If i can help with anything computer or electronics wise just ask, i hate asking for info without giving any

also, http://www.deatschwerks.com/ca...d=136the injectors here say 91-94 i have a 90, any issues?
Modified by pouncer11 at 9:29 PM 4/19/2008

[goody90q45]

There's lots of info out there on changing out injectors and it's something you want to do correctly before bolting the plenum back on. Vaseline will be your friend on this job. Start looking for a hard copy of the FSM, probably off E-bay, and with your electronics background you'll be set as far as self-diagnosis if you have any electrical problems.

Let us know your injector and KS ohm readings before you go tearing into the plenum. Read, read, read until you understand.

NICO has a Computer forum you may like. Scroll down the right side of your screen to the NO Parking Forums.

[Haitian_King]

Thank you sir for the help. I am very experienced with electronics as far as inductance and series-parallel circuits and all that stuff goes, so anything with a multimeter or wires is friendly. I have been studying the car and taking baby steps into going under the hood. Inside the car i fixed the light on the climate control with 15minutes and a soldering iron and put a new head unit inside no prob. In previous posts the guys mentioned hydro locking and gaskets that need replacing when i remove the intake system. Also, yes, i have a print out of the repairs needed, its just four but i intend on replacing at least four of them if im gonna spend 6+ hours tearing the damn thing apart. Ive got a couple friends that have done fuel injectors on american cars who will want to help as well.

I came off as an idiot because i had just finished 8 1/2 hours of work and was finishing an xml course. Any help is appreciated. If i can help with anything computer or electronics wise just ask, i hate asking for info without giving any

also, http://www.deatschwerks.com/ca...d=136the injectors here say 91-94 i have a 90, any issues?

Modified by pouncer11 at 9:29 PM 4/19/2008

I had my #8 injector replaced with used injectors from a 90 Q I believe. Mine is a 92. No problems. My #6 that came with the car showed up bad during the power balance test, so I'll be replacing that just as soon as finals are done and I move off of campus. I'll be starting a new job, but I want to put about a two week buffer between semester end and starting the new job. During that time, I'll have my Q at Keith's getting a summer maintenance regimen done. Thermostat, water pump, coolant flush and additives, and the transmission cooler. Plus the #6 injector and any other one that ohms out of spec since the plenum will be off.

The thing about Q's is if you're going under the plenum, it's not worth it for just one thing. Examine the engine and make a list of parts that need replacing. (You'll be able to find all of that here on the board) Then you can triage them and get them out of the way. The complicated under-plenum things are generally good for a nice long while after replacing them.

With good care, the VH can potentially stretch to 400k miles. I spent A little over $1400 in labor for my chain guide replacement and valve cover reseal. It was well worth it and aside from small things like oil changes, these pesky injectors, and the occasional filter, I don't have to worry about the engine for hopefully a couple of years.

Make sure you're filling up with 91 or higher octane or you'll render all of your hard work on the injectors and engine pointless.

I wish you luck on your endeavors. I've been in your same position. It's tough being young and owning a Q. I'm just getting the hang of it and beginning to get on top of the problems. It feels great to know that you're making positive ground. Good luck!

[Q451990]

The 90-93 has the same style of injectors... then they changed in the 94-96 that are similar but not identical. At least one member, Texas Oil, has converted to the newer injector style - but it involves some modification to make it work. Including some spacer washers and a different subharness - and you have to replace all of them to the new style since the rails are slightly different. If you only have one bad injector, I would ohm all of them to see how everything else looks, and then replace as needed. Members have tried deutschwerks and had good experiences, but if it were me - I would go with new parts... even if you go with the eBay ones that I mentioned earlier.

I think the biggest thing you want to remember is that it's much safer to pull the entire rail and then remove and replace the injector on the work bench... then there's no risk of spilling fuel into the engine. You also want to pressurize the rail and make sure the o-rings you installed are not leaking before reinstalling the rail. Do those two things and you won't trash your engine.

Good luck!

Heath

[maxnix]

1.) I don't mind dropping cash in it either, I spent a good 1200 fixing my van, but obviously Id rather not spend any more than need be.

2.) I just wanna learn about the car and get it running.

3.) Look I just asked for help getting the damn car apart not a bunch of discouraging posts.

1.) $1,200 will get you the parts for the timing chian guide and under hose plenum repair, maybe one injector.

2.) Then read the 1994 FSM if you don't have your bible size one anymore. Then read all posts by Q45tech as he has owned a 1990 since new, and knows more about the G50 than anybody.

3.) You presented yourself as a not too knowledgeable 17 year old that had to get Daddy do his car maintenance for him. We leveled with you as a man. If your ego is that delicate, you need to man up. (Strains of Phoebe Snow's When I Was 17 come wafting through the air here.)

The knowledge you require is hear on the board, in the FSM, OM and TSB. Study it and you really should have no further questions on your immediate course of action.


Modified by maxnix at 10:22 AM 4/21/2008

[pouncer11]

I have the car report, the lady I got the car from had it fixed and paid a fortune at the Infiniti of Dayton dealership. Im not a dumbass, I can change oil and brake pads, things like that. My dad is at work all day so aside from lending tools he doesnt help much. Ive got a few friends with experience on American Iron who taught me a thing or two, but everyone I know laughs when I probe them for nissan tips/info. Its certainly not that Im not capable of doing this its just that Id prefer not to go it alone or trial by fire. You can only learn so much from a piece of paper and the rest needs to come from hands on experience or another person. Also I would like to point out that my day does not typically consist of hours of free time. I mess with the car when I can but I work full time, go to college, and high school. Believe me, if the free time was available, Id probably know more about auto repair. My current expertise, as mentioned before is computers, if I can learn to trouble shoot a network or pc, I can damn well learn the details of this car, there is nothing wrong with asking for tools, tricks, and tips of the trade. I am well aware of the cost of repairs. If I wanted you to tell me not to do it, Id just set the damn car on fire or take it to the junk yard. And thanks as well for the informational posts.

[qship96]

My guess is he will be driving a early 90`s model Honda within 6 months time.

[Haitian_King]

1.) $1,200 will get you the parts for the timing chian guide and under hose plenum repair, maybe one injector.

2.) Then read the 1994 FSM if you don't have your bible size one anymore. Then read all posts by Q45tech as he has had a 1990 since new, and knows more about the G50 than anybody.

3.) You presented yourself as a not too knowledgeable 17 year old that had to get Daddy do his car maintenance for him. We leveled with you as a man. If your ego is that delicate, you need to man up. (Strains of Phoebe Snow's When I Was 17 come wafting through the air here.)

The knowledge you require is hear on the board, in the FSM, OM and TSB. Study it and you really should have no further questions on your immediate course of action.

Not to sound like a jerk, but I think your 3rd point was a little too aggressive.

I'm sure that you older Q gents get exasperated hearing the same things over and over again. Please remember that the newer owners are getting younger. The Q45 doesn't seem to have that instantly recognizable stigma of "PITA foreign car" that comes to mind the same way the same model year BMW or Mercedes does. Back when I was shopping for a car to replace my Grand Cherokee, I had my eye on a 740iL. Although I had the money for the car, my parents stepped in and wouldn't let me buy it because of the known associated cost of parts/labor.

Many don't realize that the Q is quite similar, especially right after getting one.

I'm not saying you need to baby the thread starter and hug him. Just bear in mind that he is 17. Were you guys all that wise and omniscient at 17? I know I sure wasn't. And that was only 4 years ago for me.

The newer posts from owners are going to be from people younger and younger. If they all get scared away from the board, there stands a chance that the Q45 board may shrivel and die.

A VH may last forever, but we won't.

Sorry for this editorial. I'm a little tired.

[Haitian_King]

My guess is he will be driving a early 90`s model Honda within 6 months time.

Nothing wrong with a well cared for early 90's Accord. Double points for the OEM spoiler with the 3rd brake light.

[qship96]

I am shocked a young 16-21 year old male would even want to drive a old 4 door sedan! When I was that age, all the guys that age wanted sporty 2 door cars, and most wouldnt be caught dead driving a 4 door, too much of an old persons car!

[Q451990]

Well, I have to say 5 or 6 years ago Wes and Jesda sounded a lot like HK sounded a year or so ago, and now pouncer11 sounds now. It's a progression... some guys hang in there and learn a lot of stuff - others drop out. Honestly, who here would have bet $50 that HK would have just cashed out a hefty chunk of cash on timing chain guides if we were placing bets a year ago (no offense)?

Now we've all talked about how expensive a Q is to maintain, and he's said he's willing to do the grunt work... so let's get on with constructive help. Obviously his Q is a work in progress, but at this point aren't they all to some extent?

Pouncer... spend some time reading over at http://www.q45.org, searching through Q45Tech's posts, etc. Then ask questions and we (or most of us) are here ready to help.

Heath

[Haitian_King]

I am shocked a young 16-21 year old male would even want to drive a old 4 door sedan! When I was that age, all the guys that age wanted sporty 2 door cars, and most wouldnt be caught dead driving a 4 door, too much of an old persons car!

I've been told by many people that I have an "old soul", because I'm more into elegant things as opposed to flashy ricer cars and things. After getting my Q, a former flame of mine told me that the Q matched my personality to a T.

Agressive, yet reserved.

That, and I happen to hate coupes. I dislike the pulling the seat up to accommodate rear passengers. I like sedans. The bigger and more luxurious, the better.

[Q451990]

I am shocked a young 16-21 year old male would even want to drive a old 4 door sedan! When I was that age, all the guys that age wanted sporty 2 door cars, and most wouldnt be caught dead driving a 4 door, too much of an old persons car!

Roomy back seat and tons of power ?

Heath

[Haitian_King]

Roomy back seat and tons of power ?

Heath

You got it.

[pouncer11]

I am shocked a young 16-21 year old male would even want to drive a old 4 door sedan! When I was that age, all the guys that age wanted sporty 2 door cars, and most wouldnt be caught dead driving a 4 door, too much of an old persons car!

Because I am not like everyone else, I could trick out a Scion or a Honda or a Mazda but everyone does that. Nobody within 50 miles has an Infiniti cept for the old lady I got this one from and those that do have one are rich old bastards. Not to mention i can blow any four cylinder out of the water. Anddd lets just say I can stretch out in the front seats and the back. Not to mention, leather cleans up better than the cloth in your ghetto early 90s Cadillacs and tiny little Proteges.

[Haitian_King]

Because I am not like everyone else, I could trick out a Scion or a Honda or a Mazda but everyone does that. Nobody within 50 miles has an Infiniti cept for the old lady I got this one from and those that do have one are rich old bastards. Not to mention i can blow any four cylinder out of the water. Anddd lets just say I can stretch out in the front seats and the back. Not to mention, leather cleans up better than the cloth in your ghetto early 90s Cadillacs and tiny little Proteges.

Lol. This guy tried to show off his Protege as if it was hot stuff. After realizing that I wasn't impressed, he said "Let's see your whip." (I'm not fond of referring to a car as a "whip") I casually walk over to my Q and it took a lot of self control not to burst out laughing as he unsuccessfully tried to hide his shock.

[NightRiderQ45]

Does it seem reasonable to expect no major problems up to 100.000 miles on the odometer?

Exactly!! My signature tell the story on my car. I know a lot of people states that they spend $3k/year on their Q, but I've never spent that much in one year on my car. No where close to it. I plan on changing the spark plugs, belts, hoses on my car in July, which will be a major tune up but that's no where near $3k. My car runs like new and trans shifts quite nice for the miles on it without B&M cooler. At the present time, I don't plan on putting one on my car, not because I don't have the funds, I wan't to see how many miles I can get without the B&M cooler...gunning for 200k on transmission . If I have a problem, I would doubt the cooler would fix anything. Once it goes out, then I will purchase a rebuilt transmission. Switch over to synthetic and I've read that fluid can drop the temp by 10degrees.

My guess is he will be driving a early 90`s model Honda within 6 months time.

Nothing wrong with this car at all. This car is well built, especially the 90-93 model. Perfect maintenance Q vs Perfect maintenance 90-93 Honda, sorry the Honda will outlast the Q. These motors can get 300k easily, I've seen quite a few myself.

[Q451990]

Well... I spent $7444.73 in the first two years I owned "Q2" (my current Q) and it only had 47K on the odometer. I wasn't even driving it... just rehabbing the suspension and brakes, new tires, tint, audio upgrade, alarm with remote start, etc. Then a guide job and rocker cover reseal at T3. Since then it's just been fluid changes, brakes and tires - but in another 20-30K (maybe next week if the corngas eats my injectors), I'll owe the car again... so the 3K/yr is an average on the G50. Y33 may be a different story, but the flimsy coil packs seem to be it's big PITA issue...

Heath

[Q45tech]

There is no difference between spending $3,000 per year and owing $3,000...............which by the way is a dealer pricing figure. Obviously any discounts from do it your self or discount labor providers have to be taken from this figure.

People's standards vary and very few 90-93 Q are kept even as near new.

If a transmission fails in 10 years and it costs $3500 to replace does that not cost $350 per year?If a $2600 differential fails in 13 years does that not cost $200 per year.If a $5,000 engine fails in 18 years does that not cost $275 per year.

If a HVAC system needs a compressor, dryer, evap, fan every 10 years does the $2,000 not cost $200 per year.

Do 4 - $125 tires which last 30k not consume $250 per year plus balancing and every 6 months alignments.

Does a new sunroof assembly not cost $1,000Do new oem shocks every 4 years not cost $250 per year.Do 8 x $170 oem fuel injectors not cost $1400

Everyone's standards are different and what they will tolerate vs the money it costs. Just as everyone's skill set for do it your self vary.

Lots of difference between a Q that cranks and a near new performing one.

Unlike most where I save money is letting the paint/exterior go to hell and not worrying about the look of wheels or fancy gadgets and stereo.

[maxnix]

If you don't spend what you must and save any excess, you will be out of the car the first time a subsytems fails and requires replacement. Simple as that.