Not the Spark Plugs

[ganma_ca]

Ok so def NOT the spark plugs Float, I had bcpr7s in ran somewhat decent thought hey switch to 6's maybe runs like complete crap after throwing those in, stalls and misfires out that wazooooo! So any other possible idea"s????
Not to sure but mannnnn I almost didn't make it home. Question though when a clutch starts to go out the symptoms would not involve the car sputtering out and dying would it????

[ganma_ca]

So thinking now it's a short somewhere. I started wiggling the harness around and the engine was acting like it was going to die out. Think it might be the MAF wires as it seems more prevalent when I was bending it, seems like there might be some contact somewhere where the current just cuts out something is not connecting properly. Or there's a short somewhere it's too late tonight to figure it out but I am going to spend tomorrow working on it and seeing what in the world is happening!!!!! Anyone know if there are wires near the ecu that should NOT be connected? I know I saw some and I started connecting them a week ago but it seems nothing happened but it might be where power is going and grounding out somewhere where the wires there are not supposed to be connected....

[Spawn_CA18]

i dont know the situation but . if you believe it is from spark plugs, you can try to lowering the gaps maybe .. (:jump in)

[s13drifter88]

I run the same bcpr7es gapped at .030" if you suspect some wiring problems strip back the harness in the suspected area and inspect. if its in a 240 the maf plug would have to be extended so id check the joint where it was extended at

[float_6969]

If the engine has stock injectors, try unplugging the MAFS and see if it runs better? If so, it's the MAFS, or the wiring associated with it.

[ganma_ca]

Awesome, yeah I'll have to pull them back and check. It's not the spark plugs at all. They run fine. It's more then likely the maf wiring. Somethings not right in the extension. It's shorting somewhere.... Because it runs great hit a bump where the wiring shifts car runs like $%*! then move the wiring starts working fine again.

[float_6969]

Yea, sounds like some faulty wiring. Could be a failing MAFS too though. Check the wiring first though.

[ganma_ca]

Yeah I did unplug the maf and the engine fell flat on it's face lol, so the maf is still working or somewhat I guess!
But yes I really have to get into the wiring.... or maybe not at all when these new harnesses are released!!!!!!!!!!! OH YEAH!

[s13drifter88]

fix your existing harness, save money and spend it on other things.

[ganma_ca]

Man with all the wiring harness issues I've had over the last 2 years and all the splicing and soldering rewiring I have done, I don't mind paying $300 for a brand new one with all new connectors and no chance of anything being wrong this time around. The fact that like every connector on my harness aside from the main ecu connector, are all either cracked broken, or zip tied to keep them on and so faulty short somewhere along the line and 20+ year old wires that are brittle as @#$% lead me to my need for a new one lol. Though you have a point I could def and need to def spend that money on other parts.... It will just be nice to be worry free have something brand new and no more electrical, connector, brittle woes.

[s13drifter88]

point made, seen and taken

[float_6969]

The car should run with the MAFS dissconnected. It might die if you unplug it while the car is running, but if you leave it unplugged, it should start back up and run. it won't rev over 3K though. Just to reiterate, this is with stock injectors only.

[ganma_ca]

Oh, yeah I guess I never thought about that. I would pull it while it was running and it would die, but not have it pulled first and try to start it I will try that out and see what happens lol

Another thing... How sensative is the coolant temp sensor? I noticed when I pulled the rad cap there was def Air in there(I did a coolant flush awhile back and never thought to check the level again after filling it. Would that cause it to stop as maybe a fail safe? (or maybe I'm just overcomplicating things!)

[boost_boy]

Ok so def NOT the spark plugs Float, I had bcpr7s in ran somewhat decent thought hey switch to 6's maybe runs like complete crap after throwing those in, stalls and misfires out that wazooooo! So any other possible idea"s????
Not to sure but mannnnn I almost didn't make it home. Question though when a clutch starts to go out the symptoms would not involve the car sputtering out and dying would it????

Running 7s on most of you guys' CAs is not the answer. The 7s are colder and will foul much faster than the 6s (been there done that). If I'm reading this correctly and your car stalls out when wires move around, have you tried checking the codes on the ecu? I mean if the continuity falls short for a second, it registers a code. I can't remember, but are you using a KA-E AFM? THose harnesses might be 20+years, but I'm not making excuses for them because they are fresh and intact where they need to be. The problems are the connectors that are exposed to heat and weather conditions. You must inspect and/or clean/change as necessary as they are usually the problem. I haven't seen the suggestion yet for checking the ECU's codes, so gove it a swing and if I misread and that was already mentioned and done, disregard this last sentence. It's too many little things that can go fail, so get back with your findings and I'm sure you can get some constructive advice on the matter. And lastly, if you're not running on the average of 25psi of boost in 77+degree of temperature, take the 7s out as there is no need for them (Your choice) .

[ganma_ca]

Thanks Dee! Yeah I'm working on it today I will pull the codes. Ok so Dee with the spark plugs as Float first suggested I went out and bought all brand new 6's installed them and went for a drive, well after installing them car misfired like crazy died out and did this constantly I almost didn't make it home after installing the 6's. For some reason with the 7's Everything works just fine most of the time, I can make it anywhere with them in fine. But for some reason the 6's killed it? Not sure what to make of that. (So I put the 7's back in and it's running somewhat decent except for the occasional stall/misfire, but nowhere near as bad as when I had the 6's in). Any ideas?
I will let you know after I pull the codes what is coming up. (It's almost as if it hit fuel cut or something when it happens?) But nowhere near it. I'll start accelerating and then it just sputters and then all of a sudden get spark/fuel again and it takes off. So not to sure. But yeah thanks Dee for reading through this.

[ganma_ca]

The only code it is exhibiting is 34? (knock sensor?) Which i don't have even plugged in at the moment, as the one I have ordered has not arrived yet. But would having the knock sensor plugged in really effect the engine in such horrible ways?????? I realize it's there to prevent knock, but man I don't think not having it plugged in would cause the car to stall out!? So red light flashed 3 times and green light 4 times so that's the correct code right? 34? (red is X10) and green is just X1? I can't remember it's been along time but pretty sure that's right. No other codes though unless there's something I don't know. I let that one repeat a few time to make sure it was the only one.

[ganma_ca]

Ooooo and I should probably make sure I ordered the right one. I ordered an 89 pulsar with ca18de knock sensor???
Oh please tell me I ordered the right one lol! And I am running the K24E maf.... And The car will start for like 2 seconds with it Not plugged in, but Will Not stay running?

[boost_boy]

Code 34 is not good. You cannot ride around with the knock sensor not connected or your ecu will failsafe and this is what you will be left to deal with. You must connect the knock sensor. The KA-E AFM will work just fine, but everything else must be functioning as well or the ecu will expose it's less than perfect compatibility for the CA.

[ganma_ca]

Ahhhh I see, ok understandable. Wasn't quite sure how much effect it would have. Is the one I ordered the correct one???? Or should I have ordered one for the CA18ET?

[boost_boy]

Ahhhh I see, ok understandable. Wasn't quite sure how much effect it would have. Is the one I ordered the correct one???? Or should I have ordered one for the CA18ET?

The Knock sensor you ordered is correct.

[ganma_ca]

Cool thanks Dee. Yeah hope to get this running the right way again soon!