im in a big dilemma rite now. i am not sure if i wanna hook up my stock ka24 in my s13 coupe 91' or put a rb20.
my goal is to get 250-300hp and spend as less money as possible. i do not know enough to make my decision and everyone i asks seems to give me false advice because they love certain motors.
from an honest stand point which would be the better way. i dont really have time for a full engine swap or equipment but i am in mechanic school so im learning.
how hard would it be to get 250-300hp out of the ka and how much would it cost?? also what kinda parts would i need?
not sure which way to hook up
Re: not sure which way to hook up (xdream)
Have you tried reading the stickies in the KA-T forum? it goes into depth about it...
If you don't know enough, read . This forum, other forums, google, etc, etc, etc.
Trying to get 300hp & spend as little money as possible (i.e. cutting corners) will get you into trouble.
I'll spare the preaching though, just read the sticky.
If you don't know enough, read . This forum, other forums, google, etc, etc, etc.
Trying to get 300hp & spend as little money as possible (i.e. cutting corners) will get you into trouble.
I'll spare the preaching though, just read the sticky.
Re: (ACESXX)
thx for the replys i dont really have time to read up on it i wake up at 4am and come home at 9-20 pm 6 days a week.
i do read up on it but not enough to make this decision. i just wanna know which would be better for me.
i will be making the ka a turbo but i would like to know which way would be cheapest, easiest, most practical. also how much i would have to spend on the ka to achieve these results and how much i would spend on the rb 20 swap and parts?
btw when i mean cheapest i mean good parts only cheap.
and if possible please tell me why.
i do read up on it but not enough to make this decision. i just wanna know which would be better for me.
i will be making the ka a turbo but i would like to know which way would be cheapest, easiest, most practical. also how much i would have to spend on the ka to achieve these results and how much i would spend on the rb 20 swap and parts?
btw when i mean cheapest i mean good parts only cheap.
and if possible please tell me why.
Re: (xdream)
If you don't have time to read up on it, do you think you would have time to actually work on it & troubleshoot it when something happens?xdream wrote:i wake up at 4am and come home at 9-20 pm 6 days a week.
Smells like a recipe for disaster... just my thoughts tho I suppose.
Re: (brokeAs240sx)
im asking for some help thats all i will make time i just need to know asap.
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SR20drftSX
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- Car: 240 hatch(sold) , 92 Infiniti G20 JDM Sr20
Re: (180fan)
i see,
so you say 300 hp is easily obtainable... well how much would it cost? and also what are some mods i would have to do? also, would i need to ever take the block out or just the head?
is there someplace that can explain it all to me easily? on how to hook the motors up step by step?
ka-t is what i was thinking but some people i know tell me that it will cost way more to make it faster then to just drop a rb20 and tune it a lil. i guess thats not true?
thx a lot i really apreciate it, also say i wanted to go 400 hp is that still easily possible with a ka-t?
so you say 300 hp is easily obtainable... well how much would it cost? and also what are some mods i would have to do? also, would i need to ever take the block out or just the head?
is there someplace that can explain it all to me easily? on how to hook the motors up step by step?
ka-t is what i was thinking but some people i know tell me that it will cost way more to make it faster then to just drop a rb20 and tune it a lil. i guess thats not true?
thx a lot i really apreciate it, also say i wanted to go 400 hp is that still easily possible with a ka-t?
Re: (xdream)
DOHC Turbo for Dummies
Read the stickies.
Read the stickies.
remember if you get an rb20, it's gonna be a mixed bag since it's used and sat in a junk yard. junk yard stuff tends not to be the most reliable and in the best shape if you know what i mean. Plus the cost of an engine swap never goes exactly as planned. On my own sr swap, I ended up sinking about 10k+ in just parts in addition to me doing all my own labor and getting a hook up on the machining costs. So you pick your poison.
With the ka, 300 if tuned right shouldn't be a problem at all with the ka.
With the ka, 300 if tuned right shouldn't be a problem at all with the ka.
Re: (180fan)
well can you guys go over this with me?
Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp,
Turbo Manifold - which one would i need that would work pretty good and cheap?
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended. - is this the turbo assembly? and where can i get one of these for cheap that is a quality part?
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that. - any recommendations or any for sale?
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool. - any recommendations or any for sale?
Fuel Control - is that the apexi 550cc Injectors - any recommendations?SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.
Block InternalsThis is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.
so if i get all this how much would it cost and also will this really give me 300-350 hp on my stock ka?
Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp,
Turbo Manifold - which one would i need that would work pretty good and cheap?
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended. - is this the turbo assembly? and where can i get one of these for cheap that is a quality part?
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that. - any recommendations or any for sale?
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool. - any recommendations or any for sale?
Fuel Control - is that the apexi 550cc Injectors - any recommendations?SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.
Block InternalsThis is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.
so if i get all this how much would it cost and also will this really give me 300-350 hp on my stock ka?
turbo manifold - do your homework on this. I'm an SR guy and have little care for the KA-T's aftermarket. Brokeas240sx might be able to give you better insight on this.
cheap and turbo don't usually go well hand in hand. IMO.
The downpipe you can have made or you can use the one built for the SR and still have it bolt up to your turbo setup if the manifold design allows for it to bolt up (the turbo outlet will have more to say about this than the actual downpipe though)
fmic i'd say is a good choice but a smic from ARC should be able to take 300 without problems. 350 might be a stretch though.
fuel control = ecu usually. afc = depends on injectors. won't work with ka + stock ecu since it's beyond what the afc is spec'ed for on a ka ecu. blah blah you can research the rest. lots of reading on this.
internals at 300-350 I wouldn't worry about too much. One thing I'd consider with the KA is the bearings. All the KA's I've had to deal with that had turbos seem to blow at rod #3 with spun bearings and thrust bearing failure. So I'd replace bearings first before anything else, but possibly rods as a more permanent measure. Pistons I wouldn't sweat at a paltry 350. lol
cheap and turbo don't usually go well hand in hand. IMO.
The downpipe you can have made or you can use the one built for the SR and still have it bolt up to your turbo setup if the manifold design allows for it to bolt up (the turbo outlet will have more to say about this than the actual downpipe though)
fmic i'd say is a good choice but a smic from ARC should be able to take 300 without problems. 350 might be a stretch though.
fuel control = ecu usually. afc = depends on injectors. won't work with ka + stock ecu since it's beyond what the afc is spec'ed for on a ka ecu. blah blah you can research the rest. lots of reading on this.
internals at 300-350 I wouldn't worry about too much. One thing I'd consider with the KA is the bearings. All the KA's I've had to deal with that had turbos seem to blow at rod #3 with spun bearings and thrust bearing failure. So I'd replace bearings first before anything else, but possibly rods as a more permanent measure. Pistons I wouldn't sweat at a paltry 350. lol