Hey folks -

2019.5 QX60 Luxe. Last night went to start it in our garage - no go.

- While attempting, there was a quick flash of "Key ID Incorrect", but that disappeared quickly as the engine wouldn't turn over and the dash just slowly kinda went dead.
- Tried to press the start button again. Same thing - just tried for a second or two then nothing.
- Thought maybe it was my key, so tried again with wife's key fob - same result.
- Our car battery is original - about 4 years or so - figured seemed like a weak battery that couldn't turn the car over, despite being able to operate all lights, liftgate, etc.
- Replaced battery this morning (I figured either way, proactively time for a new battery)
- Attempted to start, but now car will not recognize either key. Both just indicate "Key ID invalid". Keys do absolutely nothing - no locking/unlocking, starting. Nothing.
- Put brand new Duracell 2032s in key fobs - no better.
- Learned we can still start car by touching the key fob near/on the Start button. Can start car.
- Check Engine Light is now on.
- Attempted to drive car, but felt like there was ton of resistance in both reverse and drive. Kinda like maybe the break was on?
- Sure enough after 100 yards or so of drively gently, the FEB indicator light came on and simultaneously a message saying "FEB Malfunction - see owners manual"
- Tried one more time to unhook negative battery terminal for 30 mins. Reconnected. Same result. No key connection, CEL on, same funky driving...
- Also turned off the FEB system, but that makes no difference. Still drives with great resistance.

I get that maybe I'm having some sort of FEB issue (like it's perpetually trying to brake while I drive?) - but what's going on with both keys? Not a coincidence I'm sure. Somethin' ain't right.

Obviously I'll be bringing it in Monday (or Tuesday if holiday) - but in the meantime, any thoughts?

Thanks!

Curious what the CEL is. Any chance you can check that?

I'm curious, too. I have a primitive reader but it doesn't seem to be working on this vehicle. literally no signal when I plug it in with the car running. I assume car needs to be running, or at least "on". I can really turn it "on" without running as the key fobs aren't recognize so the car won't respond to me pushing the start button with no brake pedal depressed just to turn it "on". I can only start the car with the key fob touching/near the start button.

I hope that makes sense. In short - will have it towed by AAA to dealership, but would love any insight here to keep them honest...

Thanks!

It's weird that both fobs are dead. If it starts by touching the button, then it isn't a security issue. Are you sure the new fob batteries are good, and are installed right-side-up?

Yeah - batteries are new/good and installed correctly. Plus - they we BOTH working just fine before the non-starting issue. I'm confident it's not a fob-only issue.

but what would explain the major resistance when attempting to drive? I'm thinking maybe the BCM is kaput and just causing major havoc??

Will keep posted in this thread as I go. Thanks so far!

Also weird that I checked my ODBII reader in my other car(s) and as primitive/basic as it is, it at least lights up and works in my 2013 CRV and 2006 G35.

When plugged into this QX60, it does absolutely nothing. Is that weird, too?

That usually means a blown fuse on the battery circuit supplying the DLC. A lot of scanners won't wake up on just Ignition power, they need battery on 16 and ground on 4-5.

Oh, and your QX might also have a CAN gateway. If it does, many older scanners won't know how to say knock-knock.

Heard from the dealer. There was some corrosion on the fuses that are part of the positive battery cable. He also mentioned a blown fuse under the dash (not sure which one yet). This was causing all sort of miscommunication, including the FEB to lock up the brakes...

so not sure if my battery was indeed dead and replacing it caused some sort of fuse issue? or if the fuses blew on their own before replacing battery. I suspect the latter as he cited corrosion. But not happy I have fuses corroding on a relatively new vehicle.

I also have a leaking transmission fluid pan, which they fixed under warranty. But still - not again not happy that would already be leaking in a relatively new vehicle...

bsn321 wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 18, 2023 11:41 am

Heard from the dealer. There was some corrosion on the fuses that are part of the positive battery cable. He also mentioned a blown fuse under the dash (not sure which one yet). This was causing all sort of miscommunication, including the FEB to lock up the brakes...

so not sure if my battery was indeed dead and replacing it caused some sort of fuse issue? or if the fuses blew on their own before replacing battery. I suspect the latter as he cited corrosion. But not happy I have fuses corroding on a relatively new vehicle.

I also have a leaking transmission fluid pan, which they fixed under warranty. But still - not again not happy that would already be leaking in a relatively new vehicle...

Glad you've at least made some headway. Where are you located? Don't think I saw that mentioned. Depending on area, I guess that could come into the corrosion equation. For example, I'm originally from upstate NY (Albany) which gets a ton of salt and snow...but now in FL I have humidity/salty sea air...

That being said, I'm of the opinion that Infiniti quality went way down around 2014 or so until may recently. My 2011 M56x is an absolute tank as were the Nissan Maxima's (97 and 99) I had before that. But my '16 QX60 is a rattling mess. I've driven two 2022's (the new one) and it seems to be much better quality again but I haven't been able to look under the hood or body, etc. so maybe not.