Not disengaging

[burnout 180]

For about the last three days I have noticed that my clutch pedal has been getting easier to push down and I had to push the pedal as hard to the floor as I could to disengage the clutch so that I could shift into the next gear.

Today when I attempted to go to school in my car the clutch pedal went to the floor with almost no resistance and when I tried to put it in 1st so that I could leave it wouldn't go into gear. I think that for some reason my clutch isn't disengaging.

I know that the clutch isn't disengaging because when I put the car in first and try to start the car it doesn't start it just moves forward even though the whole time I’m pressing the clutch pedal as hard to the ground as it can go.

My first guess is that the clutch is finished and I need to buy a new clutch kit but I need a second opinion on why my pedal has gotten so soft and why it isn't disengaging the clutch so that I can put it in gear.

[r34 gtr]

its the slave cylinder. passenger side of the car, at the front of the transmission on the bellhousing. its $13.50 at auto zone.

ok, ok, so im not 100%, but check it. its probably bad. my heavy clutch absolutely eats them. ive gone through the same thing a few times.

[kapower06]

Also please change your stock rubber clutch line... and both your slave and master cylinders they are both very cheap and the whole job(including new clutch line) shouldnt take more then about an hour or so if you mechanically inclined.

[r34 gtr]

i dont see the reason to go replacing the master cylinder.... correct me if im wrong. mine was one of the first to roll off the production line and the master cylinder is like new. unless of course it looks like a gorilla hit it with a bat a few times....

[Indecisive]

generally speaking, when one of the cylinders goes bad, you should replace them both.

The reasoning behind it is, if something failed and caused small fracments of the slave or master cylinder to continually pass through, it may do more damage. And they're cheap and easy to change..so why not heh.

that being said...when my slave went, the seal crapped out, so I just changed the slave and left the master.

[burnout 180]

So my guess about needing a new clutch is wrong.

Your saying that i definatly need is a slave cylinder but changing the master cylinder is debatable. Is their away that i can check if my slave cylider is bad before i buy the part if not i'll buy it still and hope it solves the problem?

I guess i'll change the master cylinder also if it isn't pricey.

What exactly should i ask for when i go to the parts store? A slave and master cylinder for a 1988 pulsar NX?

[r34 gtr]

get under the car and look at it. if its leaking fluid or just looks like crap then replace it. if not, check the master cylinder on the firewall. if neither of those look bad, then suspect the clutch.

[float_6969]

As the others have stated, this mostly likely sounds like a hydraulic related problem. Either the clutch master cylnder, clutch slave cylnder, or the crappy rubber line has failed and has allowed air to enter the system. Once air is in the system, the clutch will fail to work properly. The problem is usually in the clutch slave cylnder and the rubber line attached to it. Clutch master cylnders to go bad sometimes, but are less likely to go bad than the slave. Because they are cheap, I would still reccommend replacing all of them.

[driftin8ez]

Easiest way is to locate the slave cyclinder mounted to the transmission. Then have a friend push the clucth pedal down. The slave cyclinder should extend about 2 inches or so which pushes the clutch fork forcing the T/O bearing into the pressure plate releasing the clutch. If the slave cyclinder doesn't appear to be leaking and actuates the clutch fork properly something in your clutch assembly has failed. But I'm going to go with the others and say your hydraulics are shot. SPL-Parts.com has a great SS Clutch line for cheap.

[kapower06]

Just change all of the hydraulics. slave master and line. its cheap less then $80 for everything. Either that or eventually replace your transmission (dont ask how I know) due to the clutch not disengaging completely. Also adjust your pedal height.

[float_6969]

There is also a slim possiblity that you've busted off the pivot bolt in the transmission. I did this once drag racing (not on the street) and it made the clutch act as you are describing as well.

[burnout 180]

I checked the problem out today and when I pressed down the clutch the slave cylinder does move but not allot. On top of the fact that the clutch pedal pushes to the ground with no resistance now the pedal doesn't recoil back to its original position on its own. I also noticed some fluid was on the clutch pedal. So I checked this reservoir (which i belive is the master right? And it was empty so i refilled it with hydraulic clutch fluid but it didn't solve the issue.

I see three bleeder nipples in the system one on the slave, one on the master and another under the car on a box where the lines meet. Should i bleed the system if so which one of these nipples should i bleed it from.

Our local parts dealer doesn't have the master and slave cylinder for a 1988 pulsar NX so i'm hoping that the problem is just that the system ran out of fluid and that bleding the system will fix the problem. If bleeding the system doesn't solve the problem is their another cars master and slave cylinder that can work?


Modified by burnout 180 at 10:24 AM 10/7/2006

[biosehnsucht]

Yeah thats the master cylinder. Slave is down on the transmission.

sounds like you need a new master cylinder if you have fluid below it in the car. Probably been leaking like crazy nad losing the fluid, plus with it leaking it won't build pressure and you can't disengage the clutch without pressure.

I've needed a new brake master cylinder myself for some time, cause its leaking internally (not losing fluid, but it's mushy even with fresh fluid bled properly, when I push the pedal not all the pressure stays where's its supposed to, its leaking back to the resevoir).. hasn't been a big problem, just ****ty pedal feel. Your clutch master cyl is much worse.

[burnout 180]

I checked our local parts dealer and they don't have a master cylinder for a 1988 pulsar NX. Is their any other cars master cylinder and slave cylinder that will work?

[Indecisive]

this may sound stupid, but since your car is an S13, why don't you just get an S13 master cylinder?

Did you change it to a pulsar one before?

[burnout 180]

lol, I guess i thought that it was engine specific and since the ca didn't come in the 240sx i was asking for one for a pulsar 1988.

So just ask for a slave and master cylinder for a 1990 240sx and they should work?

[nocwage]

Yes

[mbmbmb23]

If the clutch MC is leaking chances are it will leak inside the car up near the firewall. Mine did this and I had brake fluid leaking down onto the sound deadening by where the clutch pedal is. You can buy a rebuild kit for the clutch MC and for the slave. Its best to do them both at the same time. Make sure you adjust your clutch engagement level correctly after you replace the MC otherwise it will suck to drive (no heel toe action). After you replace them you will need to bleed the clutch hydraulic lines. Check the FSM for the procedures, I think you have to bleed the slave first then the dampener box loop second.

-m

[biosehnsucht]

OR take this opportunity to throw out the goddamn dampener box! I junked it during my swap, and slapped a FC RX-7 SS clutch line on, which I picked up cheap locally at Rotary Performance.. works just as well as a "real" 240sx SS line :P

google a bit and you should find howto's on bypassing the dampener.. or maybe just search various forums

[float_6969]

Yea, I think most of us take the dampener box out of the loop. I've actually got a russell speed bleeder on my slave cylnder with the SS line so bleeding my system only takes a minute or two and I can usually do it by myself.