Noob question: 240z Ka24de

[Duce40sx]

Well I've searched and searched.

I am a Z noob and I was wondering if anyone has detailed information about swapping a Ka24de or ka24de-T into a 240z or 260z?

I really need some help. The Z is my next car and all I know is 240sx. =/I like the KA24de, I can build it with my eyes closed and that's why I want it in the Z. I am getting a pre-75 Z because I am in California and the KA engines are plentiful and reliable.

Let me know. Thanks guys.

[evildky]

if ka's are your bad have at, but I feel the L6 is a superior engine, these things last foreverand can survive overheating unlike the KA, the L6 also comes in 2.0, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8 and if you bore and stroke it you can get 3.1, and let's face it there is no replacement for displacement, you also have stock boo k and head combos that can run anywhere from 7.3:1 to 9.5:1 without machine or special gaskets, I'm not sure what the potential of the is is but an na L6 stock stroke easily makes 200 whp, with machine work it can see 300 whp! And the turbo version is good to about 300 whp, some forged pistons, metal hg, arp headstuds and 400, 500 even more is achievable, oh and it requires no fab work or trans swap or custom driveshaft

[Duce40sx]

Wow! That's the answer I needed.

I'll step up to the L6 engines. I assume they are much simpler engines than any late model engines with all the ECU and smog junk.

I'll do a lot of research upon the L6. I assume you mean the L26 engine. L28 engine which are cool looking.

I guess I'll step up to inline sixes and see what will happen.

Z's are my favorite cars of all time. I have a 240sx coupe and it's great for daily and crusing, but I really want a masterpiece. 240z or 260z shall be my diamond in the rocks.

[evildky]

some things to keep in mind when shopping; the S30's weak point is the chassis, these little engines seem to last forever, the chassis rust away, if you are shopping for an S30 be sure to look long and hard for rust, the floor pans, frame rails, gusset plate inside the frotn wheel well behine the frotn tire, rocker panel, spare tire well, hatch lip, and near the gas filler are all common areas and reust repair ain't cheap or easy (ok maybe some people find it easy but I'm not one of them)

all of the 240Z's (70-73) should come with an L24, 2 sidedraft SU carburators, the early "roundtop" modes are the most desirable

the 74 260Z was a year of change, the stroked the L26 to reach 2.6 liters hence the L26 designation and the 260Z name, most of which came with very pathetic "flat top" SU carburators, these are pretty much universilly hated, towards the end of the production they added fuel injection

75-78 280Z, they bored the L6 block with the L26 stroke yielding 2.8 liters hence the L28 engine and the 280Z name, they also upsized the valves, all were fuel injected, the 77-78 cars came availabe with a 5 speed trans, the 77-78 also got slightly better rear brakes, the brakes on these things are still pretty weak

the earliest 240Z's weighed only 2150lbs, by the end of the dustiong the 280Z's were up to 2800+ lbs! factory air was introduced in I believe 75, the bumpers got bigger and heavier by year, the interior got more plush as the years rolled on, in 74 the added a rear swap bar

if you happen to find a car with 2 down ddraft carbs they are webber DGV's they are not favored but Ive seen them run real strong when tuned properly, if you luck out and find one with, tripple side draft carbs, they are webber DCOE's or mikuni, or dellorto or something similar, they are highly sought after and have great power potential, the injected cars can be swapped to carbs and vice versa, the blocks and heads are also interchangable so it's not unusual to find various block and head combo's, the 81-83 280ZX n/a flat top block with the 75 280Z head is a popular combo and the highest compression ratio you can get with the larger valve sizes